Passport

1. Rock climbing route.

2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.

3. Karatash via the SE slope of the NE ridge.

4. Category 2B proposed (the route has been climbed several times before).

5. Elevation gain 480 m, length 1360 m.

6. No pitons used.

7. Moving time 10 hours from base camp to base camp.

8. No overnight stays required.

9. Drakin A.V. CMS

   Grachev A.P. 2nd sports category

10. Coach Drakin A.V. CMS, 1st category, No. 68.

11. Ascent and descent on July 28, 1997.

12. Organized by Rubtsovsk City Sports Committee.

Karatash via the South-East slope of the North-East ridge

From the base camp near Aktru PSO, move upstream along the river to the bridge (25–35 minutes). Cross the river over the bridge and exit onto the Maly Aktru glacier via the moraine. Move through the lower and middle parts along the center of the glacier (watch out for crevasses!), bypassing the North-East ridge of Karatash peak on the left. Overcoming some crevasses requires piton belay.

The even flow of the glacier to the right under the slopes of Karatash peak is interrupted by an icefall, which is bypassed on the left, leading to a flat glacier step that goes to the SE slope of the NE ridge of Karatash. Follow this step to the slope and ascend to the NE ridge. The slope is technically not difficult, but prone to rockfall (move simultaneously in a tight group). Along the entire ridge, stay on the left side.

The ascent to the first pillar is straightforward. Descend from it via a 20-meter internal corner, moving in turns with belay through a projection. A 5-meter steep wall leads to a long ridge of 2nd category complexity. Move in turns with belay through a projection. The ridge leads to the top of the second pillar. The descent from it goes down a climbing wall of medium difficulty with belay through a projection.

The ascent to the third pillar goes along the ridge of 2nd category complexity. Move simultaneously or in turns with belay through a projection. The descent from the third pillar leads to a snowy-icy saddle, from which a snowy-icy ridge leads to the summit. On open ice sections, use ice screws for belay.

Ascent time is 10–12 hours. Descent via category 1B route along the Maly Aktru glacier.