Report
Team of the Republic of Tatarstan on the ascent to Pik Svobodnoy Korei 4740 m via the northern wall couloir, 5B category of difficulty (G.Barber's route) on March 14, 2019.
Team leader
Coach 
Kazan 2019
Ascent Passport
- Ascent area — Tian Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai valley, 7.4
- Object of ascent — Pik Svobodnoy Korei, 4740 m, via the northern wall couloir (G.Barber's route)
- Category of difficulty — 5B
- Route type — ice and snow
- Route characteristics:
elevation gain — 740 m
route length — 960 m
length of 5th category sections — 600 m, 6th category sections — none
Average slope:
- main part of the route — 60°
- entire route — 52°
- Protection used on the route:
total — 102
including:
- stoppers — 6
- slings on outcrops — 3
- ice screws — 93
- including ITO — 0
- pitons left on the route — 0
- Total climbing time — 10 h 15 min; days — 1
- No bivouacs on the route.
- Team leader — Stanislav E. Lemanov, Candidate for Master of Sports
Team members:
- Marat O. Abdrashitov, 1st sports category
- Ilnar M. Ibragimov, 1st sports category Coach — Valery S. Kudryashov, Candidate for Master of Sports, 1st category
- Start of the route — 5:15, March 14, 2019 Summit arrival — 15:30, March 14, 2019 Return to Koronskaya hut — 20:30, March 14, 2019
- Organizing body: Ministry of Sports of the Republic of Tatarstan
Area map.
General photo of the summit. Taken from Ak-Sai glacier on March 13, 2019, the team's route via the northern wall couloir (G.Barber's route) 5B category.
Ascent Graph
Route Scheme in UIAA Symbols
| Ridge leading to the summit. | 40 m, 30 °, I–II | R6–R7 |
|---|---|---|
| Rock wall. Movement with variable protection. | 60 m, 60 °, IV | R5–R6 |
| Narrow ice couloir. Ice is wet and runny. Key part of the route — steep ice wall 15–20 m. At the end of the section, traverse under a snow cornice and exit to the ridge to the pre-summit rock tower. Movement with alternating belay. | 60 m, 70–90 °, V–V+ | R4–R5 |
| Steep ice slope. Movement with alternating belay. | 120 m, 50–65 °, V | R3–R4 |
| "Saddle" — a ridge between the lower and upper couloirs. Further, a mixed section: rock outcrops covered with thin ice. Movement with alternating belay. | 120 m, 55–60 °, IV–V | R2–R3 |
| Ice slope. Movement with alternating belay. | 530 m, 50–60 °, IV–V | R1–R2 |
| Bergschrund. Snow-ice wall. Belay organization is difficult. | 10 m, 70 °, V | R0–R1 |
Route Explanations
March 14, 2018. Departure from Koronskaya hut at 4:00. This year's winter in Ak-Sai was low-snow. On good crust, we reached the start of the route in 45–50 minutes. Started at 5:15. Weather on the day of ascent was stable, mostly clear. Forecast was good. Planning to complete the route and descend within daylight, we traveled lightly. Weather on the day of ascent was clear and matched our plan. We worked on two ropes with alternating belay, 60 m long, which allowed the lower climber to organize rappel loops with slings already on the ascent, while the leader was climbing the rope. Ilnar Ibragimov was responsible for this. Stanislav Lemanov and Marat Abdrashitov led. We climbed free with ice tools, changing leaders every 2–3 ropes, allowing the leader to rest.
Ascent chronology:
- Stanislav Lemanov climbed the key section (two ropes with exit to the ridge and to the pre-summit tower)
- Reached the ridge at 14:25
- Took a short rest under the pre-summit tower
- Marat Abdrashitov climbed the final rock rope
- Reached the summit at 15:30
Overall, the route's difficulty is fairly consistent, with reliable ice protection. The mixed section after the "saddle" at the start of the upper couloir was somewhat problematic for belay organization: two ropes of rock outcrops covered with thin ice. On this section, we used slings on rock outcrops for more reliable protection.
Started descending at around 16:00. On the descent, the first two climbers used an ice screw to block the sling in the rappel loop. Reached the bergschrund at dusk, at 19:40. Returned to Koronskaya hut at 20:30.
During the ascent, the team was observed by coach Valery S. Kudryashov, who was at Koronskaya hut. Radio communication with Koronskaya hut and "Light House" hut of "Ak-Sai Travel" company was stable.
During preparation for the ascent, from March 6 to 11, the team members completed training ascents in pairs on ice routes to the summits:
- Korona (2nd) via Akimov's route, 3B category
- Korona (1st) via Fedorov's route, 4A category
- Baychechekhey via Ilyushenko's route, 4B category
Summit and Control Tour Notes
No control tours were encountered. At the summit, a can was found in the tour without a note.
Photo Illustrations
On section R1–R2 (M.Abdrashitov).
Lower part of the mixed section R2–R3 above the "saddle". (M.Abdrashitov approaching S.Lemanov)
Upper part of the mixed section R2–R3. (S.Lemanov leading)
Upper part of section R3–R4.
Start of section R4–R5 (S. Lemanov).
Section R5–R6, pre-summit tower (M.Abdrashitov leading).
At the summit of Pik Svobodnoy Korei, Stas Lemanov and Marat Abdrashitov.
At the summit, S.Lemanov and Ilnar Ibragimov.
Summit tour, no note found.
