Report on the ascent of the Tomsk-Novosibirsk team to Peak Svobodnoy Korei 4740 m.
Via the North wall couloir, 5B cat. sl., Barber's route, March 25, 2019.
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Mountain system: Tian-Shan. Region: Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range. Valley: Ak-Sai. Name of the summit: p. Svobodnoy Korei, 4740 m.
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Name of the route: via the North wall couloir, №147.
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Category of complexity: 5B.
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Nature of the route: ice and snow.
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Characteristics of the route:
Height difference: 700 m. Route length: 900 m. Length of sections with V–VI cat. sl.: 600 m. Average steepness:
- main part of the route: 60°
- entire route: 52°
- Total number of anchors used on the route: 85, including: rock screws: 0, stationary pitons: 0, including ITO: 0, protection elements: 0, ice screws: 85. "Pitons" left on the route: rock: 0, pitons: 0, ice: 0.
- Team's total climbing hours: 10 h 30 min. Days: 1. Overnight stays: none.
- Team leader: Savenkov Andrey Yakovlevich. Sports qualification: 1st sports category. Participants:
- Temerev Ivan Mikhailovich. Sports qualification: Master of Sports.
- Melnikov Sergey Vasilievich. Sports qualification: 2nd sports category.
Departure for the route: 5:30, March 25, 2019. Reaching the summit: 16:00, March 25, 2019. Return to the Base Camp (Koronskaya hut): 21:00, March 25, 2019.
Map of the region
Route diagram in UIAA symbols
| Ridge leading to the summit | 40 m, 30°, I–II | R6–R7 |
|---|---|---|
| Rock wall. | 60 m, 60°, III–IV | R5–R6 |
| Steep narrow ice couloir. Icicle ice. The key section of the route — a steep ice wall 12–15 m. At the end of the section, a small snow cornice and exit to the ridge. | 90 m, 70–90°, V–VI | R4–R5 |
| Steep ice slope. | 200 m, 50–60°, IV | R3–R4 |
| Crossing a ridge. Rocks covered with a thin layer of ice, snow in places. | 70 m, 55–60°, IV | R2–R3 |
| Ice slope. | 600 m, 50–60°, IV | R1–R2 |
| Bergschrund. Steep snow-ice wall. Organizing reliable protection is challenging. | 6 m, 90°, VI | R0–R1 |
Section R1–R2
Transition from the couloir
On the ridge
Section R4–R5
Section R4–R5
At the summit