Russian Championship in mountaineering in the ice and snow class
Report on the ascent of the St. Petersburg team to Peak Svobodnoy Korei 4740 m. Via the North Face couloir, 5B cat. sl. Barber's route on February 20, 2015.
Ascent Details
- Mountain system: Tian Shan Region: Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range Valley: Ak-Sai Peak name: Svobodnoy Korei, 4740 m
- Route name: via the North Face couloir
- Category of difficulty: 5B cat. sl.
- Route type: ice and snow
- Route characteristics:
Elevation gain: 700 m
Route length: 900 m
Length of sections:
V–VI cat. sl.: 600 m
Average slope:
- main part of the route: 60 °
- entire route: 52 °
- Total protection used on the route: 70, including pitons: rock: 0, stationary bolted: 0, including ITO: 0, placements: 0, ice screws: 70. Protection left on the route: rock pitons: 0, bolted: 0, ice: 0
- Team's climbing time: 6 h 50 min, Days: 1. No overnight stays
- Team leader: Kirichenko Ruslan Sergeyevich Sports qualification: Master of Sports Participant: Ivanov Alexander Sergeyevich Sports qualification: 1st sports category
- Coach: Timoshenko Tatyana Ivanovna Sports qualification: Master of Sports
- Departure for the route: 6:10, February 20, 2015
Summit arrival: 13:00, February 20, 2015
Return to Base Camp (Koronskaya Hut): 18:00, February 20, 2015
Map of the area
Route diagram in UIAA symbols
| Ridge leading to the summit | 40 m, 30 °, I–II | R6–R7 |
|---|---|---|
| Rock wall. Movement with variable protection | 60 m, 60 °, IV | R5–R6 |
| Steep narrow ice couloir. Ice is wet. Key part of the route — steep ice wall 12–15 m. Movement with simultaneous protection. At the end of the section — a snow cornice and exit to the ridge | 90 m, 70–90 °, V–VI | R4–R5 |
| Steep ice slope. Movement with simultaneous protection | 200 m, 50–60 °, IV | R3–R4 |
| Crossing a ridge. Rocks covered with a thin layer of ice, snow in places. Movement with simultaneous protection | 70 m, 55–60 °, IV | R2–R3 |
| Ice slope. Movement with simultaneous protection | 600 m, 50–60 °, IV | R1–R2 |
| Bergschrund. Steep snow-ice wall. Organizing reliable protection is challenging | 6 m, 90 °, VI | R0–R1 |
General photo of Peak Svobodnaya Koreya. Taken on February 16, 2015
Photos of participants
Ivanov Alexander and Kirichenko Ruslan
Section R1–R2
Section R3–R4
Section R4–R5
Exit to the ridge