Ascent Passport

Ascent category — winter
Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge
Object — Pik Svobodnaya Korea
Category of difficulty — 5B, KTM 148 (B.Bogaev, 74)
Height difference — 1124 m, length 1345 m, length of ice axe terrain sections 100 m, average steepness of the route 58° (bergschrund — ridge), average steepness of the wall 64° (3700–4580)
Pitons driven

rock	stoppers	ice
36	28	45
24	12	0

Moving hours: 30, days 4, including 2 days of processing
Overnights: 1 on the ridge, sitting
Participants: Selivanov Andrey Fedorovich (CMS), Pucinian Andrey Albertovich (CMS)
Coach: Mikhailov Alexander Alexandrovich (MS)
Exit to the route — January 23, 1999, summit — January 26, return — January 26.
Organization: Tyumen Regional Alpine Federation

pitons			ROUTE diagram in UIAA symbols M 1:2000	Section NN	cat. diff.	length (m)	steep. (deg.)
rock	stop.	ice
0	0	0		6	A	230
0	12	14		5	B	320
0	0	26	+1+	4	5A	320
30	2	0		3	6A	100
2	10	2		2	5B	95
0	6	2		1	5B	80	65°
0	0	2	+	0	2B	180	50°

P. Svobodnaya Korea 4740 m 3700 m

Route description by sections

Section R0–R1. Snow-ice ascent to the first bergschrund.

Sections R1–R2:

After passing the bergschrund, movement on ice terrain with steepness of 45–65 degrees to the base of the rock bastion.
Further — on snow-covered rocks to the ice slope.

Section R2–R3: Ice river on a vertical rock section about 50 m long.

Section R3–R4: After passing the ice gully-crack, passable on ITO. In the upper part, the cornice is bypassed on the right.

Section R4–R5: Ice slope with steepness of 60 degrees.

Section R5–R6: Rock-ice bastion, leading to the pre-summit ridge.

Section R6–R7: Ridge leading to the summit.

Photo 1. Section R1–R2. Beginning of the rock bastion

Photo 2. Section R2–R3. Beginning of the second rock belt