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The team's departure for the route was scheduled for July 29, 1985, between 3:00–4:00, on the same day as the teams from RSFSR and Ukrainian SSR.

The choice of the route to Pik Svobodnaya Korea via the north face (Myshliaev's route) was made for the most objective comparison and visibility of the team's actions on the route relative to the two other teams following parallel routes (Bezzubkin, Popenko).

Moreover, the choice of the route and simultaneous departure for the ascent ensured coordinated actions in case of the need for assistance, as the teams were within visibility and voice communication range.

Due to the late dawn, the team departed from the "Koronskie" overnight camps at 4:00. No route processing was conducted.

On the day of approach, visual observations were made of the planned ascent route. No rockfall was noted.

At 5:00, the Avtomonov–Bershov team began crossing the bergschrund and subsequent movement along the ice slope (section R0–R2), installing fixed ropes. All participants traversed this section in crampons. The first climber used:

  • ice axe
  • ice screws
  • screw and ice piton hooks.

To enhance safety and reliability, the first climber worked without a backpack throughout the route.

Upon approaching the rocks ("ram's foreheads"), crampons were removed. On section R2–R3, the Turkevich–Vasilenko team took the lead. On this section, the teams worked autonomously, partially using fixed ropes in areas of severely deteriorated rocks.

On section R3–R4, the first climber began moving on a double rope (Soviet and UIAA-marked).

At the start of section R5, the first climber in the team, Vasilenko, put on rock shoes. The key section of the route, R5–R8, was traversed by all participants (except the first) using fixed ropes on jumar with top-rope protection. The Soviet rope served as the fixed rope. The first climber's protection was provided through a Sticht plate and a UIAA knot. At belay stations, the rope was secured to two or three linked anchors. All working ropes (fixed ropes) were interconnected. Belay stations were most often located under overhanging rocks to avoid rockfall.

Section R8–R14 was first traversed by Bershov. Above section R8, friends were frequently used. By section R15, the team had made up for the lost time due to the delayed departure. At this location, two ropes and some equipment that were not needed for further movement were left behind. From this point on, movement towards the summit was conducted on three ropes.

On section R15–R19, Turkevich worked first. The team reached the summit at the planned time – 15:00. The last climbers reached the summit at 15:30. There was no gap between the teams.

Descent followed the ascent route according to the tactical plan, starting at 15:45. Turkevich worked first throughout the descent, with Vasilenko bringing up the rear. A total of 22 rappels were organized from the summit to the bergschrund. By 21:50, the entire team had descended to the plateau under the route.

Throughout the ascent:

  • Each participant had a package with individual rations.
  • Each team had its own first-aid kit.
  • There were no falls or injuries.

The main objective of this ascent was to complete the ascent and descent via the same route within a single day. This challenging task was accomplished thanks to the swift and coordinated actions of all team members.

Observation and communication:

  • The team was under constant visual observation.
  • Three radio communication sessions were conducted – at 11:00, 16:00, and 20:00.
  • Observers conducted hourly monitoring.

After the descent (as instructed by KSP), the group was detained for a day as a rescue team.

Route Diagram in Symbols

Total climbing hours — 10

RockPitonsIceShlK. tr.Prot.Steep№ sect.
7772162
15.05 R2519
3---img-1.jpeg ### Tactical Team Actions

The team's departure for the route was scheduled for July 29, 1985, between 3:00–4:00, on the same day as the teams from RSFSR and Ukrainian SSR.

The choice of the route to Pik Svobodnaya Korea via the north face (Myshliaev's route) was made for the most objective comparison and visibility of the team's actions on the route relative to the two other teams following parallel routes (Bezzubkin, Popenko).

Moreover, the choice of the route and simultaneous departure for the ascent ensured coordinated actions in case of the need for assistance, as the teams were within visibility and voice communication range.

Due to the late dawn, the team departed from the "Koronskie" overnight camps at 4:00. No route processing was conducted.

On the day of approach, visual observations were made of the planned ascent route. No rockfall was noted.

At 5:00, the Avtomonov–Bershov team began crossing the bergschrund and subsequent movement along the ice slope (section R0–R2), installing fixed ropes. All participants traversed this section in crampons. The first climber used:

  • ice axe
  • ice screws
  • screw and ice piton hooks.

To enhance safety and reliability, the first climber worked without a backpack throughout the route.

Upon approaching the rocks ("ram's foreheads"), crampons were removed. On section R2–R3, the Turkevich–Vasilenko team took the lead. On this section, the teams worked autonomously, partially using fixed ropes in areas of severely deteriorated rocks.

On section R3–R4, the first climber began moving on a double rope (Soviet and UIAA-marked).

At the start of section R5, the first climber in the team, Vasilenko, put on rock shoes. The key section of the route, R5–R8, was traversed by all participants (except the first) using fixed ropes on jumar with top-rope protection. The Soviet rope served as the fixed rope. The first climber's protection was provided through a Sticht plate and a UIAA knot. At belay stations, the rope was secured to two or three linked anchors. All working ropes (fixed ropes) were interconnected. Belay stations were most often located under overhanging rocks to avoid rockfall.

Section R8–R14 was first traversed by Bershov. Above section R8, friends were frequently used. By section R15, the team had made up for the lost time due to the delayed departure. At this location, two ropes and some equipment that were not needed for further movement were left behind. From this point on, movement towards the summit was conducted on three ropes.

On section R15–R19, Turkevich worked first. The team reached the summit at the planned time – 15:00. The last climbers reached the summit at 15:30. There was no gap between the teams.

Descent followed the ascent route according to the tactical plan, starting at 15:45. Turkevich worked first throughout the descent, with Vasilenko bringing up the rear. A total of 22 rappels were organized from the summit to the bergschrund. By 21:50, the entire team had descended to the plateau under the route.

Throughout the ascent:

  • Each participant had a package with individual rations.
  • Each team had its own first-aid kit.
  • There were no falls or injuries.

The main objective of this ascent was to complete the ascent and descent via the same route within a single day. This challenging task was accomplished thanks to the swift and coordinated actions of all team members.

Observation and communication:

  • The team was under constant visual observation.
  • Three radio communication sessions were conducted – at 11:00, 16:00, and 20:00.
  • Observers conducted hourly monitoring.

After the descent (as instructed by KSP), the group was detained for a day as a rescue team.

Route Diagram in Symbols

Total climbing hours — 10

| Rock | Pitons | Ice | Shl |

Attached files

Sources

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