Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: high-altitude and technical.
2. Ascent region: Central Tian Shan, South Inylchek.
3. Ascent route: Khan-Tengri peak via the Southwest slope, 4. M. Pogrebetsky 1931.
4. Category of difficulty: 5B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain: 2985 (by altimeter), ascent length: –9 km, descent length: –9.4 km, section lengths: 5th category of difficulty – 120 m,

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude technical
2. Region — Tian-Shan, Tengri Tag ridge, route № 7.9.8
3. Peak — Khan-Tengri, via the Southwest ridge
4. Category of difficulty — 5A
5. Route type — combined
6. Route elevation gain — 2800 m. Route length — 5290 m. Length of sections with category difficulty — 1040 m. Average slope:

Passport

1. Class — winter ascents
2. Central Tien Shan, Tengri Tag ridge
3. Peak Khan-Tengri via the southwest slope
4. Proposed 6A first ascent in winter conditions
5. Elevation gain: 2800 m (from the confluence of the Semenovsky and South Inylchek glaciers) Average steepness of the main part of the route — 45° (from the saddle between peaks Chapayev and Khan-Tengri to the summit of Khan-Tengri 5800–6995 m)
6. Pitons used: rock — 6 pcs., ice — 4 pcs. Previously used pitons not removed — 12 pcs.
7. Team's total climbing hours: 28 hours and 4 days

I. Altitude class 2. Tian Shan, Tengri Tagh ridge 3. Khan Tengri peak via the Southwest slope 4. Route difficulty category — 5B 5. Elevation gain: 2695 m, length 3830 m Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 340 m. Average steepness of the route — 42°. 6. Pitons driven: rock 9+9*, chocks 16, ice screws 8+4*

• use of previously driven pitons

7. Team's travel time: 13.5 hours, days — 2

PASSPORT

1. Altitude-technical class
2. Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag range
3. Peak Khan-Tengri, via south-west slope, 6995 m
4. 2A cat. diff.
5. Height difference — 2795 m
6. Pitons driven: rock 0+8ˣ ice 1+2ˣ
7. Climbing time — 12.5 hours, days — 2
8. Overnight stays: in a snow cave

Passport

1. High-altitude class
2. Central Tian-Shan, South Inylchek Glacier
3. Peak Khan-Tengri via the southwest slope (Pogrebetsky route)
4. Category 5B difficulty
5. Elevation gain — 1095 m, length — 1700 m (main part of the route). Total elevation gain — 2595 m. Length of category 5 sections — 590 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 45°, category 5 sections — 55°–60° (6700–6850 m). Pitons used: Rock — 52, bolt — 0, chocks — 16, ice — 5.
6. Team's travel hours: 18, days — 3.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Tengri Tag ridge, South Inylchek glacier, number according to the 1999 classification table —.
2. Peak name: Khan Tengri (6995 m), route name: via NW edge from Chapayev peak shoulder (I. Grebenshchikov).
3. Complexity category: 5A category.
4. Route type — combined
5. Route elevation gain: 2800 m (by altimeter); route length — 8260 m; sections of 5th category — 1500 m; 6th category —.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — altitude-technical
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan
3. Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) — via the western couloir, first ascent
4. Estimated complexity category — 5B
5. Height difference — 2800 m of which:

• wall — 1200 m
• Length — about 6000 m, including rock part — about 1800 m
• Length of sections with 5–6 complexity category — 125 m

Consider the route via 40–3 saddle as an option of cat. 5B (record No. 10 p. 7 of the classification) USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIPS 1982 Category 5 TECHNICAL-ALTITUDE ASCENTS group N/N not to be included in the table Order No. 525 dated 22.02.83 p. 26. 25.01.83

Report

on the ascent to Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) via the west face

Ascent Passport

1. Class of high-altitude technical ascents.
2. Region 7.9, Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge.
3. Khan-Tengri peak via the W ridge from Semenovsky glacier (variant of M. Pogrebetsky's route-31 via the SW slope).
4. 5A category of route complexity, combined.
5. Height difference 1400 m, average steepness of the ridge 40°, route length 3000 m. Sections of 1st category of difficulty – 1100 m, 2nd category – 350 m, 3rd category – 1300 m, 4th category – 200 m, 5th category – 50 m.
6. Used previously fixed ropes – 700 m, total 1200 m of ropes on the route from 6100 m to 6850 m.
7. Climbing hours — 9, days — 2.
8. Overnight stay in a snow cave under the col between Chapayev peak and Khan-Tengri peak, 5850 m.
9. Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich — CMS, Shanavazov Shanavaz Eldarovich — CMS