Khan Tengri

Video guide to climbing Khan-Tengri via the classic 5A route by experienced alpinist Dima Pavlenko.

Video guide to the classic route to Khan-Tengri (5A) by Dima Pavlenko.

Report on the ascent of the combined team from Krasnoyarsk Krai to Khan-Tengri Peak via the south face of the south-western counterfort, category 6B complexity route.

MINISTRY OF SPORT, TOURISM AND YOUTH POLICY OF KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY SPORTS FEDERATION OF ALPINISM RUSSIAN CHAMPIONSHIP 2013 Class of High-Altitude Ascents Report Of the combined team of Krasnoyarsk Territory on the ascent to Khan-Tengri peak via the south wall of the southwest counterfort (variant of the route by Sviridenko) 6B category of complexity. Passport of the Ascent Region — Central Tien Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, 7.9.18. Peak — Khan-Tengri 6995 m, via the south wall of the southwest counterfort (variant of the route by Sviridenko).

Ascent of Khan-Tengri via SW buttress of SW edge, category 6B, made in 2003 by a team led by Aidar Akhmadiyev.

Ascent Record Region — Central Tien-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, September 7, 1918 Peak — Khan-Tengri 6995 m, via SW facet of SW edge (V. Sviridenko) Complexity category — 6B Route type — combined Route characteristics: elevation gain — 2395 m, elevation gain of the wall section — 1450 m, route length — 3455 m, length of sections with 6th category difficulty — 170 m, 5th category — 700 m,

Ascent to Khan-Tengri peak (6,995 m) via the South-West buttress of the South-South-West edge, 6B grade of climbing difficulty.

Ascent Passport Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge (KMGV section No. – 7.9) Peak Khan-Tengri (6995 m) via SW crest SSW rib (V. Sviridenko, 82) 6B category of difficulty Route type — combined Route elevation gain — 2595 m. Route length — 3720 m. Length of sections with 5 category of difficulty — 460 m, 6 category of difficulty — 380 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 58°, entire route — 49° Pitons left on the route: total – 0, including bolted – 0. Pitons used on the route: stationary bolted – 0, including for artificial climbing – 0. Removable bolted – 0, including for artificial climbing – 0. Total artificial climbing anchors used – 13. Team's total climbing hours – 56, days – 7.

The second ascent of the 6B category route on Khan-Tengri peak via the south-eastern ridge. Description of tactics, terrain and technical skills used by the team.

Passport I. Category — High-altitude Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge Khan-Tengri Peak 103 South-West edge (V. Sviridenko, 82) 6B cat. diff. (2nd ascent) Height difference 2725 m, length 4920 m. Length of 6A–6B cat. diff. sections 480 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 62°. Hooks left on the route (not extracted) — none. Previously driven hooks used and not extracted — 3 piton hooks.

Ascent of Khan Tengri Peak via the SW spur of the SSW ridge, grade 6B, second ascent.

Passport High-altitude class. Central Tian-Shan, South Inylchek glacier, Khan-Tengri peak via the southwestern spur of the south-southwestern ridge. Category 6B difficulty, second ascent. Elevation gain: 2500 m, route length: 3280 m. Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category: 1015 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 60°, of which 6B category difficulty — 120 m. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolts | Nuts | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: | | 77 | 1 | 81 | 93 | | 6 | X | 9 | 0 | X — reuse of previously driven pitons.

Description of a category 6B route to Khan-Tengri peak, climbed by the Rostov Department of Physical Culture and Sports team in 1992.

Passport I. Category of mountaineering ascent. Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge. Peak Khan-Tengri 103 SSW edge (V. Sviridenko, 82). 6B category of difficulty. Height difference 2590 m, length 3820 m. Length of sections 5–6 category of difficulty — 840 m. Length of sections 6 category of difficulty — 380 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 58°. Number of anchors used: rock anchors — 116 protection equipment — 120

Ascent to Khan-Tengri peak via the northwest wall, a description of the route and tactical actions of the team in challenging weather conditions.

PASSPORT High-altitude technical climb category. Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tağ range, South Inylchek glacier. Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) via the southwest wall. Proposed route: 6th category of difficulty, first ascent. Height difference: 2660 m; route length — 3448 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1134 m. Average steepness of main sections 62° (4336–6130), including 95 m of 6th category at 87°. Pitons used: | Rock pitons | Bolts | Nuts | Ice screws | | :--------- | :---- | :---- | :--------- |

Report on the first ascent via the centre of the North face of Khan-Tengri peak by the MSG DSO "Burevestnik" team in 1986.

163 Moscow City Championship in Alpinism. First Ascent Category Peak Khan-Tengri – 6995 m – via the center of the North Face FIRST ASCENT Team of MGS DSO "Burevestnik" Team Leader: Koroteev V.K. Moscow, ul. Dorozhnaya, 16, bldg. 3, apt. 122. ph. 381-87-86 (home) Team Coach: Shpolyansky V.N. Moscow, Strelbishchensky per., 5, bldg. 3, apt. 52.

Ascent of the "Odessa" alpine club team to Khan-Tengri peak via the left counterfort of the North face in 1987, first ascent of a 6 km route of 6th category of difficulty.

Passport Altitude class. Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge. Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m.) via the left buttress of the center of the North face. Proposed 6th category of difficulty first ascent. Height difference 2700 m., length 3570 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty: 1400 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 58°. Number of pitons used: | Rock | Chocks | Ice | | :--: | :----: | :-: |