Khan Tengri

Ascent via the route with profile description and illustration.

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Climbing Mount Everest via the South Col: a description of the challenging route, key stages, and essential skills required for mountaineers.

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A route to the summit along the right ridge with a detailed description and photographs showing technically challenging sections.

Profile on the right

Report on the ascent of the FAS of Ukraine team to the summit of Khan-Tengri via the South-West slope and the left side of the South-West edge in 2009.

World Climbing Championship 2012 High-altitude class Report on the ascent to Khan-Tengri peak, 6995 m via the southwestern slope and the left side of the southwestern edge, 5B category of difficulty (variant of the route by E. Kondakov, 1982) by the team from FAiS Ukraine (Ukraine-1), from August 10 to 18, 2009 Team coach: Mityukhin F. P. Team captain: Venslavovsky D. A.

Report on the ascent of Khan-Tengri peak via the "Marble Rib" route in 1964 by a team led by V. Romanov.

Report on the ascent of Khan-Tengri peak via the southwest edge (MARBLE EDGE) by the team of CS DSO "Trud" led by Master of Sports B. Romanov from August 4 to 11, 1964 Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) is located in the highest part of the Central Tien Shan, in an area where the highest peaks of this mountain system are concentrated:

Report on the ascent of the "Vertical" Alpine Club team to Khan-Tengri peak via the Southwest Ridge in 1990, category 5B difficulty level.

PASSPORT High-altitude class. Central Tian-Shan, South Inylchek glacier. Peak Khan-Tengri via the South-Southwest ridge. 5B category of difficulty, previous ascent was over 3 years ago. Elevation gain — 2610 m, route length — 2840 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 2010 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 47°, including 45 m of 6 category of difficulty with 70° steepness. Hooks left on the route (not removed) — none. Previously driven hooks used and not removed — none. Team's climbing hours: 40 and days – 6.

Ascent to Khan-Tengri peak via the South-Southwest Edge, made in 1987 by a team of 7 climbers led by Viktor Polyak.

PASSPORT Category of mountaineering ascent Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, S. Inylchek glacier Peak Khan-Tengri (6995 m) via SSW ridge 5B Height difference 2505 m, length 3850 m, length of sections with category U-VI difficulty 1180 m, category VI difficulty 100 m, category V difficulty 1080 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: sections R0-R19 — 54°, sections R23-R27 — 47°, of which category VI difficulty at 80-90° — 100 m Pitons used: | rock | chocks | bolt pitons | ice screws | | :--: | :----: | :---------: | :-------: | | 58 | 11 | - | 59 |

Climbing passport for Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) via the North Ridge, complexity category 5B, team of the Ural Air Force and Air Defense Association.

Ascent Passport Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, 7.9 Khan-Tengri peak, 6995 m, via North Ridge, 7.9.11/11a 5B category of difficulty, combination Route type — combined Route height difference — 3000 m, Route length — 5000 m, Length of 5 category sections – 300 m, Average steepness of the wall section — 70° (6500–6800 m), Average steepness of the entire route — 47°

Ascent certificate for Khan-Tengri peak via the North Ridge, Category 5B difficulty, combined route, 3000 m elevation gain.

Climbing Passport Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag range, 7.9 Peak Khan-Tengri, 6995 m, via North Ridge, 7.9.11/11a Category 5B, combination Route type — combined Route elevation gain — 3000 m, Route length — 5000 m, Length of sections with category V difficulty — 300 m, Average slope of the wall section — 70 degrees (6500–6800 m) Average slope of the entire route — 47 degrees

Report on the ascent of the combined team of climbers from the Caucasian Republican Council of the Spartak Sports Society to Khan-Tengri peak in 1968 via a new route from the north.

Kazakhstan Republican Council of the Spartak Voluntary Sports Society Report on the ascent of Khan-Tengri Peak (6995 m) from the north by a team of climbers in August 1968 B. Studenin, 68 Almaty 1968 Introduction