Khan Tengri

### Ascent of Khan Tengri via the North Face, Category 6B, led by V. Dodia in 1990 The team, led by V. Dodia, successfully climbed the North Face of Khan Tengri, a formidable route categorized as 6B, in 1990.

High-altitude class. Central Tien Shan, North Inylchek Glacier. Khan-Tengri Peak, 6995 m, via the center of the North Face. Proposed category: 6B, variation. Elevation gain — 2700 m, distance — 3550 m Distance of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 1430 m, including 185 m of 6th category. Average steepness — 55–58°. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :---: | :--: | :--: | :---: | | 151/3 | - | 211/3 | 12 |

First ascent of the north wall of Khan Tengri peak via the left part of the route, 6th cat. difficulty level, in 1993.

Passport CATEGORY OF CLIMBING ROUTE. TIAN-SHAN, TENGRI-TAG RANGE. Peak KHAN-TENGRI VIA LEFT PART OF NORTH FACE. PROPOSED 6B cat. dif., FIRST ASCENT. ALTITUDE DIFFERENCE 2700 m, ROUTE LENGTH 3920 m. LENGTH OF 5–6 cat. dif. SECTIONS — 1405 m. LENGTH OF 6 cat. dif. SECTIONS — 375 m. AVERAGE STEEPNESS OF THE WALL PART OF THE ROUTE — 61°. PITS SET: | ROCK PITS | ICE SCREWS | PLACED PROTECTION |

Report on the first ascent of the right part of the north face of Khan Tengri peak in 1988 by a team from the 12th Sports Club of the Army.

1988 USSR Alpine Championship High-altitude Climbing Category Report on the Ascent to Khan-Tengri Peak (6995 m) via the Right Part of the North Face (First Ascent) by Team 12, SAVO Army Sports Club www.alpfederation.ru All inquiries regarding the report should be directed to: City: Alma-Ata Postal Code: 480051 Address: Army Sports Club, 12 Position: Club Chief

First double ascent in Alpine style through the center of Khan-Tengri North Face. Description of the route, equipment, and an interview with the climbers.

To the Main Judging Panel of the 2005 Russian Federation Alpine Championship, High-Altitude Class Report On ascending to the summit of Khan-Tengri 6995 m via the center of the North face. Combination of routes: Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88. From August 20 to 30, 2005, the FASKO team, consisting of Tukhvatullin I. Kh. and Shabalin P. E., undertook the ascent. Ascent Passport Central Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, South Inylchek glacier, section 7.9 Khan-Tengri peak 6995 m, from the South Inylchek glacier via the center of the North face Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, combination of routes Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88. Route type – combined

### First Ascent of Khan-Tengri's North Face in 1988 by the "Yenisei" Sports Club Team, Category 6B Complexity.

Passport I. Altitude class. Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge. Peak Khan-Tengri, 6995 m, via the right part of the north face. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. Elevation gain: 2760 m, length — 3795 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 2260 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 59.5° (4235–6895), including 6B category of difficulty 70° (5400–6030), 70° (6330–6620). Pitons driven: | Rock | Nuts | Ice screws | Bolts | | :--: | :-----: | :-------: | :------: |

Report on the ascent made by the Sverdlovsk Oblast Sports Committee team to Peak Khan-Tengri via the center of the bastion of the left part of the North wall in 1998, category 6B.

7.9.15a Russian Mountaineering Championship. High-altitude technical class 1998. Report on the ascent of Khan-Tengri peak (7010 m) via the center of the bastion on the left part of the North face, 7.9.12, first ascent, 6B category of difficulty (tentative) team of the Sverdlovsk Oblast Sports Committee. Team leader: Zhilin N.F. Team coach: Mikhailov A.A. PASSPORT High-altitude technical class. Central Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge. Khan-Tengri peak (7010 m) via the center of the bastion on the left part of the North face.

Passport and description of climbing Khan-Tengri peak by the 6A category route on the East Pillar of the North Face.

Sheet 1, p. 1. Passport Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, 7.9. Khan-Tengri peak 6995 m, 7.9.15 Via the Eastern counterfort of the Northern wall, O. Khudyakov's route, 1970. 6A category of difficulty. Route type — combined. Elevation gain — 2795 m. Distance — 4530 m. Section lengths:

Ascent to Khan-Tengri peak via the eastern counterfort of the northern wall, the most difficult combined route of 6th difficulty category.

Report On the ascent of Khan-Tengri peak via the eastern counterfort of the northern wall from the North Inylchek glacier. Team of the CS "Lokomotiv" Conventions — — Route 1964 of the team DSO "Burevestnik" — — — Route 1970 of the team DSO "Lokomotiv" I. Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the ascent object A. Geography of the area Khan-Tengri peak is located in the Tengri-Tag range, the second highest range of Tian Shan. The range is stretched in the latitudinal direction and serves as a boundary between the North and South Inylchek glaciers. Khan-Tengri peak is the most significant summit in the range, noticeably standing out among other peaks. The lower part of Khan-Tengri is composed of dark-colored limestones and shales, and the upper part is made of light marble. The boundary of the rocks forming the peak is very visible on the northern wall. The North Inylchek glacier is relatively flat and less dissected in its upper part. In the area of Khan-Tengri peak, it reaches an altitude of 4000 m above sea level.

Ascent of the Togliatti City Committee of Physical Culture and Sports team on Khan-Tengri via the eastern counterfort of the North Face in 1975, 6B category of complexity.

ascents made during the 1975 USSR Alpine Climbing Championship. Ascent category — high-altitude. Ascent region — Central Tian Shan. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their elevations. Eastern buttress of the North face of Pik Khan-Tengri (6995 m). Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 2845 m. average steepness — 51° (5700 m). Length of the most difficult sections — 930 m. Pitons driven: rock — 78, ice — 10, bolt — none. Total hours of climbing — 68.5.

Report on the ascent of the team of climbers from the Sports Committee of the Uzbek SSR to Khan-Tengri peak in 1973 via the ridge, with the ascent to the ridge along the counterfort of the eastern wall.

USSR ALPINISM FEDERATION 1973 USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP HIGH-ALTITUDE ASCENT CLASS Report on the ascent of Khan-Tengri peak via the SSE ridge with access to the ridge via the counterfort of the eastern wall by the combined team of climbers from the Sports Committee of the Uzbek SSR, Tashkent 1973 Brief Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) is the highest point of the Tengri-Tag ridge, one of the highest in Tian Shan. The Tengri-Tag ridge, located in the upper reaches of the Inylchek River, a left tributary of the Sarydzhas River (Tarim basin), starts in the east from the Meridionalny ridge in the area of Shaater peak, and in the west it ends at the confluence of the largest Tian Shan glaciers: the Southern (59.4 km²) and Northern (35 km) Inylcheks, near Bronenosets peak. The ridge is about 40 km long and about 8 km wide. The ridge has an asymmetrical structure (its watershed is strongly shifted to the south). The snow line on the southern slopes fluctuates at around 4500 m. In the eastern part of the ridge, 10 km from its junction with the Meridionalny ridge, Khan-Tengri peak rises, a strikingly beautiful, perfect, and architecturally light summit, long considered the highest point of Tian Shan. The first information about the peak was published by an Italian expedition in 1904–1905. The Munich researcher Merczbacher made a significant contribution to the study of the area. However, it was not until 1930 that the expedition led by Pogrebetsky M.T. reached the foot of the peak, and on September 11, 1931, Pogrebetsky's group conquered the seemingly impregnable summit via the route now known as the "classic" route.