Object 18480219

Glacier0.10 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Climbing the north-eastern wall of the Bolshoy Nakhari peak, the first ascent of category 6 complexity made by a team under the leadership of Yuri Japaridze in 1982.

  1. Rock climbing category
  2. Western Caucasus, Nakhar gorge
  3. Bolshoi Nakhar via the northeast wall
  4. Proposed category: 6th category of complexity, first ascent
  5. Height difference — 930 m, length — 1320 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity — 730 m Average steepness of main sections 81° (2950–3500), including 6th category of complexity:
  • 86°, 60 m (3010–3050);
  • 88°, 185 m (3070–3200);
  • 90°, 10 m (3230–3240);
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Description of the passage of a 6B category complexity route to the summit of Bolshoi Nakhar in the Western Caucasus in 1976 by a group of climbers from the "Dombai" alpine camp.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical

2. Region — Western Caucasus

3. Route — Bolshoy Nakhara via 6B category route, 3780 m.

4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference — 1080 m.

  • Average steepness: 81°
  • Length of complex section: 760 m.

5. Pitons hammered: rock

  • 315
  • Ice: 0
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Ascent description to the summit Bolshoy Nakhara (3780 m) via category 6B route, Western Caucasus, with details of the route and climbing conditions.

Ascent Log

I. Ascent category — rock climbing 2. Region — Western Caucasus 3. Route Bolshoi Nakhar (3780 m) via route 6B cat. diff. 4. Ascent characteristics: height difference 1050 m average steepness 80° length of complex section 740 m 5. Pitons used: rock 290, ice —, bolt 11 6. Total climbing hours 61 h

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Description of the ascent route to the summit of V. Nhar (3780 m) via the northwest wall, difficulty category 6, height difference 1000 m.

1. Nature of the Ascent

1.1. Class of ascent — rock climbing. 1.2. Area of ascent — Western Caucasus, Nakhar region. 1.3. Peak — B. Nakhar, 3780 m, northwest wall (B. Koralin route). 1.4. Category of complexity — 6B. 1.5. Number of pitons driven: 1) for belaying — 23; 2) for creating artificial climbing holds (ITCH) — 5; 3) rock pitons — 23; 4) ice pitons — 0;

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Description of the ascent to the summit of Bolshoy Nakhara via the northwest wall, a category 6 complexity route, including the technical characteristics of the route and the specifics of the ascent.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category — rock climbing
  2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus, Nakhara region
  3. Ascent route — Bolshoi Nakhara peak 3780 m via Northwest wall, 6B category
  4. Route characteristics Height difference — 1000 m. Average steepness — 80°. Route length — 1565 m. Length of complex sections — 785 m.
  5. Pitons hammered in Rock pitons — 309. Bolt pitons — none. Chocks used — 26.
  6. Total climbing hours — 48 h 30 min.
  7. Total climbing days — 5 (including one rest day)
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Description of a group climbing a Category 6 route to the summit of Mt. V. Nakhar (3780 m) via the northwest wall in the Western Caucasus.

Passport

  1. Rock class.
  2. Western Caucasus (from Nakhar Pass to Chipperazau Pass).
  3. B. Nakhar (3780 m) via the northwest wall.
  4. Category 6B difficulty.
  5. Height difference: 1000 m, length — 1355 m. The average steepness of the route is 75° (see sheet 3, front side). Length of sections: 150 m — category 6, 330 m — category 5, 400 m — category 4, 210 m — category 3, 250 m — category 1.
  6. Pitons hammered in: | | For belay | For creating artificial anchors | | :------------ | :------------- | :------------------------------ |
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Ascent to the summit of Bolshoy Nakhara via the northwestern wall, made by the Uzunkol alpine camp team in 1974, category VI complexity.

PASSPORT

Ascent to the summit of Bolshaya Nakhara, completed as part of the USSR Alpine Climbing Championship 1974. Climbing category — Technically challenging Region — Nakhara Valley Route — v. Bolshaya Nakhara via the northwest wall

Characteristics of the ascent:

Height difference — 1000 m Average slope — 80° Length of complex sections — 745 m Total length — 1335 m

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Report on the ascent of the CS DSO "*Spartak*" national team to the summit of **Bolshoy Nakhara** via the right part of the northwestern wall in 1978.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category — rock climbing.
  2. Ascent area — Uzunkol alpine camp.
  3. Ascent route with indication of peaks, their heights, route complexity (and other approximate data) — Bolshoy Nakhar peak (3780 m), complexity approximately 6th category of difficulty — via the right part of the northwest wall.
  4. Ascent characteristics:
    • Route length — 1310 m.
    • Height difference — 1000 m.
    • Average steepness — 78°.
    • Length of complex sections — 805 m.
  5. Pitons hammered: rock — 195, ice — 20 into rocks, wooden wedges — 23, placement elements — 6.
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Description of the ascent to the summit of Bolshoy Nakhar (3780 m) via the northwest wall, a 6th category difficulty route, completed by the CS DSO "Spartak" team in 1978.

  1. Climbing category — rock climbing.
  2. Climbing area — Uzunkol alpine camp.
  3. Climbing route with indication of peaks, their heights, route complexity (and other approximate data) — Bolshoy Nakhar peak (3780 m), complexity approximately 6th category of difficulty — via the right part of the northwest wall.
  4. Climbing characteristics: — route length — 1310 m. — height difference — 1000 m. — average steepness — 78°. — length of complex sections — 1095 m.
  5. Pitons hammered: rock — 185 ice — 20 into the rock
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Ascent to the summit of Bolshoy Nakhar via the center of the northwest wall, category 6B, climbed by the team of the Dagestan Republican Search and Rescue Service in 1997.

Climbing Passport

  1. Rock climbing category.
  2. Region 2.3, Caucasus, from Nakhar pass to Chipperazau pass.
  3. Nakhar Bolshoy, 3784 m, point 90, V. Kovtun's route 1977 via the center of the NW wall, rock climbing route.
  4. 6B complexity category, second ascent.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference – 800 m, wall height difference – 650 m (from 2990 m to 3640 m), average wall slope – 70°, route length – 1300 m, wall section length – 800 m, section lengths: 1 – 60 m, 2 – 150 m, 3 – 305 m, 4 – 110 m, 5 m, 5 – 620 m (including 25 m of artificial climbing), 6 – 55 m (including 50 m of artificial climbing), total artificial climbing – 75 m, with complexity: A1 – 15 m, A2 – 55 m, A3 – 5 m.
  6. Equipment used on the route:
    • bolt hammers – 41/5, including 22 on stations
    • rock pitons – 158/42 – 28
    • chocks – 60/20 – 8
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