East Mkyara Glacier

Glacier1.51 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Report on the first ascent to the summit Sovetsky Voyn via route 3A category of complexity on the North wall.

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF Soviet VoIN PEAK VIA THE ROUTE OF 3A DIFFICULTY CATEGORY BY THE FRI-LINE TEAM FROM PYATIGORSK ON SEPTEMBER 28, 2023

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderKonstantinov G.A. 1st sports rank
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsPopov M.L. CMS, Semenova O.A. 1st sports rank
1.3Full name of the coachMotienko N.I. CMS
1.4OrganizationFri-line MAC
2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object
2.1RegionCaucasus, Kabardino-Balkaria
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Report on the first ascent of the route category 3B on the peak Sovetsky Voyn by the MAC "Freeline" team on August 29, 2022

Appendix No. 1 to the Unified Requirements for Classification Report Report Form for Routes 1B–3B Category of Difficulty REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT Sovetskiy Voyn VIA THE ROUTE OF 3B CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY BY THE TEAM OF MAC "FREELINE" PYATIGORSK ON AUGUST 29, 2022

I. Climbing Passport

No.1. General Information
1.1Full Name, Sports Rank of the LeaderPopov M.L., CMS
1.2Full Name, Sports Rank of the ParticipantsSemenov M.A., MS
Khadzhimustafarov M.A., 2nd sports rank
1.3Full Name of the CoachMotienko N.I., CMS
1.4OrganizationMAC "Freeline"
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### Ascent Route to Sovetsky Voyn Peak (4052 m) #### Category 2A Complexity in Prielbrusye A detailed guide including the path, necessary gear, and duration for climbers.

Description

Climbing route to the summit SOVIETSKY VOIN 2A category of complexity. The summit elevation is 4052 m. The Soviet Voïn peak is located in the Eastern spur of Elbrus. From the junction of the Baksan valley and the Adyl-Su gorge, take the road to the settlement of Elbrus, located at the entrance to the Irik-Chat gorge. Follow the lower trail on the right bank of the Irik-Chat river upstream through the gorge. The trail goes along a grassy slope past sand pillars and small forests to the confluence of the Irik and Chat rivers. At the forest boundary, there are "Lower Camps" (3-3.5 hours from the Adyl-Su tourist center). Then the trail goes up to the right along a steep grassy slope (40 minutes - 1 hour) and leads to a large stone on a flat area - "Middle Camps". From here, the ascent follows the trail along a grassy slope, then through the "Verbliud" (Camel) - a steep grassy slope - the trail comes out onto a moraine and further along the moraine and snowy slope to the saddle between the Soviet Voïn peak and the Kezgen-Bashi peak. The exit to the saddle is to the right of the Soviet Voïn peak. From the "Middle Camps" to the saddle - 3-3.5 hours. From the saddle, ascend to the left up the inner corner 5-6 m. Piton belay. Then, along simple rocks upwards in the direction of the ridge to the second inner corner. Traverse below the inner corner and up its right side 5-6 m. Then move onto a slab to the right and along the slab to a large protruding stone. From the stone, along moderately difficult rocks 20-25 m, reach a sharp ridge crest, from which then move onto a smooth inclined slab leading to the ridge of the Soviet Voïn peak. From the saddle to the ridge - piton belay, handrail. Then along the ridge (simple rocks) ascend to the Soviet Voïn peak. From the saddle to the summit - 1-1.5 hours.

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Report on the first ascent of the route category 2B to the summit 3811 (Nakhodka) along the southern ridge, made by the team of MAA "Freeline" on September 20, 2020.

Appendix No. 1 to the Unified Requirements for a Classification Report. Report Form for Routes 1B–3B Category of Difficulty. REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO PEAK 3811 (NAKHODKA) VIA THE ROUTE 2B CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY BY THE TEAM OF MAC "FREELINE", Pyatigorsk, September 20, 2020

I. Ascent Passport

No.1. General Information
1.1Full Name, Sports Rank of the LeaderPopov M.L., CMS
1.2Full Name, Sports Rank of the ParticipantsKonstantinov G.A., 2nd sports rank
1.3Full Name of the CoachMotienko N.I., CMS
1.4OrganizationMAC "Freeline"; AK "Maximum"
2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object
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Report on the first ascent to the peak Sovetsky Voin via a Category IIIB route by the MAC "Freeline" team on August 19, 2020

Appendix No. 1 to the Unified Requirements for a Classification Report Report Form for Routes 1B–3B Category of Difficulty REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT p. SOVETSKY VOIN VIA THE ROUTE OF 3B CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY BY THE TEAM OF MAC "Freeline" Pyatigorsk on July 19, 2020

I. Climbing Passport

No.1. General Information
1.1Full Name, Sports Rank of the LeaderPopov M.L. CMS
1.2Full Name, Sports Rank of the ParticipantsKonstantinov G.A. 2nd sports rank, Klindukhov M.O. 2nd sports rank
1.3Full Name of the CoachMotienko N.I. CMS
1.4OrganizationMAC "Freeline"; AC "Maximum"
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Report on the first ascent of category 3B route to the summit 3811 (Nakhodka) via the north-eastern ridge.

Appendix No. 1 to the Unified Requirements for a Classification Report Report Form for Routes 1B–3B Category of Difficulty

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT 3811 («NAHODKA») VIA THE ROUTE OF 3B CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY BY THE TEAM OF MAC «Freeline» Pyatigorsk on July 7, 2019

I. Ascent Passport

No.1. General Information
1.1Full Name, Sports Rank of the LeaderPopov M.L. CMS
1.2Full Name, Sports Rank of ParticipantsKonstantinov G.A. 2nd sports rank
1.3Full Name of CoachMotienko N.I. CMS
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Description of the traverse of the peaks Sovetsky Voyn - Kezgen - Kubasanty, category 2B difficulty level, with photographs and route diagram.

в. Советский воин — в. Кезген — в. Кубасанты! img-0.jpeg Taken on July 2, 1986 at 6:00 PM from the southern spur of в. Кубасанты. Camera "Salut-C", lens "Mir-26B", F=45 mm. ROUTE SCHEME IN LIMB VOLA U I A A:

  • Кубасанты
  • Советский воин
  • 2Б кат. сл., traverse

View of the Ирикчат gorge from в. Череткара

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Traverse of Kезген — Sovetskiy voin peaks, 2B grade of difficulty, with a description of technical details and accompanying photographs.

Traverse of the Kezgen — Sovetsky Voin peaks, cat. 2B. Taken from the NE ridge. Kubasants on August 2, 1986, at 6:00 PM. Camera “Salut-S”, lens “Mir-26B”, F=45 mm. Elevations determined by altimeter, steepness measured by goniometer.

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Traversing Irikchata from west to east (Category III complexity): a detailed description of the route, including key stages and necessary equipment.

16. Traverse of Irikchata from west to east (P. Rototaev's route, cat. 3B, complexity). The path from the "Razvilka" of the Baksan valley and Adylsu gorge (group of 4-8 people) to the summit of Irikchat Zapadnaya is described in route 14. From the Zapadnaya summit, descend via

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Traverse of Irikchata from east to west, 3A cat. grade, duration 3 days, challenging rock route with gendarmes and difficult rocks.

17. Traverse of Irikchat from east to west (P. Kovalev's route, category 3A). The path from the "Fork" of the Baksan valley and Adylsu gorge to the initial bivouac on the southern slopes of Irikchat is described in route 14, and the path to the Eastern summit is described in route 15. From the Eastern summit, descend along a plate, a 4-5-meter wall, and moderately difficult rocks to a point below the 2nd gendarme. Traverse 30 m along ledges on the left side (belay!) to bypass the gendarme and reach a platform. From the platform, make a 1.5-meter descent (hanging on hands) to a col. From the col, ascend along a plate with a crack, then 60-80 m along moderately difficult rocks, and 30-35 m along simple ridge

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