Description

Climbing route to the summit SOVIETSKY VOIN 2A category of complexity. The summit elevation is 4052 m. The Soviet Voïn peak is located in the Eastern spur of Elbrus. From the junction of the Baksan valley and the Adyl-Su gorge, take the road to the settlement of Elbrus, located at the entrance to the Irik-Chat gorge. Follow the lower trail on the right bank of the Irik-Chat river upstream through the gorge. The trail goes along a grassy slope past sand pillars and small forests to the confluence of the Irik and Chat rivers. At the forest boundary, there are "Lower Camps" (3-3.5 hours from the Adyl-Su tourist center). Then the trail goes up to the right along a steep grassy slope (40 minutes - 1 hour) and leads to a large stone on a flat area - "Middle Camps". From here, the ascent follows the trail along a grassy slope, then through the "Verbliud" (Camel) - a steep grassy slope - the trail comes out onto a moraine and further along the moraine and snowy slope to the saddle between the Soviet Voïn peak and the Kezgen-Bashi peak. The exit to the saddle is to the right of the Soviet Voïn peak. From the "Middle Camps" to the saddle - 3-3.5 hours. From the saddle, ascend to the left up the inner corner 5-6 m. Piton belay. Then, along simple rocks upwards in the direction of the ridge to the second inner corner. Traverse below the inner corner and up its right side 5-6 m. Then move onto a slab to the right and along the slab to a large protruding stone. From the stone, along moderately difficult rocks 20-25 m, reach a sharp ridge crest, from which then move onto a smooth inclined slab leading to the ridge of the Soviet Voïn peak. From the saddle to the ridge - piton belay, handrail. Then along the ridge (simple rocks) ascend to the Soviet Voïn peak. From the saddle to the summit - 1-1.5 hours.

ASCENT ROUTE DESCRIPTION to CENTRAL IRIK-CHAT peak (via Eastern summit) 2B cat. difficulty

The height of the peak is 4050 m. "Adyl-Su" tourist center 1975 The Irik-chat peaks are located in the Eastern spur of Elbrus. From the fork of the Baksan valley and Adyl-Su gorge, take the road to the Elbrus village, located at the entrance to the Irik-chat gorge. Take the lower trail on the right bank of the Irik-chat river and ascend the gorge. The trail goes along the grassy slope past sand pillars, small forests, to the confluence of the Chat and Irik rivers. At the forest boundary, there are "lower campsites". (3–3.5 hours from "Adyl-Su" tourist center). Then the trail goes up to the right along a steep grassy slope (40 min – 1 hour) and leads to a large stone on the site — "middle campsites". From here, ascend along the trail of the grassy slope, then along the scree towards the "Finger" gendarme on the saddle of the eastern ridge of the Irik-chat peak. The exit to the saddle is to the left of the "Finger" gendarme. 3–3.5 hours from "middle campsites" to the saddle.

Irik-Chat western 1B cat. diff.

The ascent to Western Irik-Chat starts from a bivouac located in the Chat gorge on the upper green areas among numerous streams. The ascent is via the central couloir, clearly visible in the relief, which is covered with large talus. Snow remains in places within the couloir. After two to three hours of ascent, the couloir forks. The ascent continues via the left (in the direction of travel) couloir to a snowy saddle between two gendarmes located on the ridge running from the western summit. The gendarmes are overcome head-on. The rocks are not difficult, but belaying is necessary through protrusions and shoulder throws. Then, we reach the ridge leading directly to the summit. The ridge consists of easy rocks, which give way to large talus just before the summit. The entire ascent takes 4–4.5 hours. Descent is via the ascent route.

1 reddish rock 2 north-west ridge 3 Descent route to Nrik-chat valley

17. Traverse of Irikchat from east to west (P. Kovalev's route, category 3A). The path from the "Fork" of the Baksan valley and Adylsu gorge to the initial bivouac on the southern slopes of Irikchat is described in route 14, and the path to the Eastern summit is described in route 15. From the Eastern summit, descend along a plate, a 4-5-meter wall, and moderately difficult rocks to a point below the 2nd gendarme. Traverse 30 m along ledges on the left side (belay!) to bypass the gendarme and reach a platform. From the platform, make a 1.5-meter descent (hanging on hands) to a col. From the col, ascend along a plate with a crack, then 60-80 m along moderately difficult rocks, and 30-35 m along simple ridge

16. Traverse of Irikchata from west to east (P. Rototaev's route, cat. 3B, complexity). The path from the "Razvilka" of the Baksan valley and Adylsu gorge (group of 4-8 people) to the summit of Irikchat Zapadnaya is described in route 14. From the Zapadnaya summit, descend via

Traverse of the Kezgen — Sovetsky Voin peaks, cat. 2B. Taken from the NE ridge. Kubasants on August 2, 1986, at 6:00 PM. Camera “Salut-S”, lens “Mir-26B”, F=45 mm. Elevations determined by altimeter, steepness measured by goniometer.

в. Советский воин — в. Кезген — в. Кубасанты! img-0.jpeg Taken on July 2, 1986 at 6:00 PM from the southern spur of в. Кубасанты. Camera "Salut-C", lens "Mir-26B", F=45 mm. ROUTE SCHEME IN LIMB VOLA U I A A:

• Кубасанты
• Советский воин
• 2Б кат. сл., traverse

View of the Ирикчат gorge from в. Череткара

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF Soviet VoIN PEAK VIA THE ROUTE OF 3A DIFFICULTY CATEGORY BY THE FRI-LINE TEAM FROM PYATIGORSK ON SEPTEMBER 28, 2023

I. Ascent Passport

Appendix No. 1 to the Unified Requirements for a Classification Report Report Form for Routes 1B–3B Category of Difficulty

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT 3811 («NAHODKA») VIA THE ROUTE OF 3B CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY BY THE TEAM OF MAC «Freeline» Pyatigorsk on July 7, 2019

I. Ascent Passport