I. Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area — Central Caucasus.
3. Peak — Ullu-Kara via the left part of the north-eastern wall (first ascent).
4. Difficulty category: 5B, approximate.
5. Route characteristics:
   • total length — 1545 m.
   • height difference — 1300 m.
   • average steepness — 47°.
   • length of sections with 5.6 difficulty category — 500 m

Ascent Record

1. Central Caucasus, Adyl-Su gorge, section 2.4 according to CMGA.
2. Bashkara peak, 4241 m, via the North Face.
3. Claimed 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Nature of the route — combined.
5. Elevation gain of the route 540 m. Route length 926 m. Length of sections:

• 5th category of difficulty — 345 m;
• 6th category of difficulty — 51 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 70°, entire route — 55°.

6. Pitons left on the route: total 0

Ascent Logbook

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Prielbrusye
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Bashkara (4241 m) via the North wall (Yu. Grigorenko-Prigoda route)
4. Difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain: from Bashkara glacier — 920 m, from bergschrund — 670 m. average steepness: wall section — 62°, entire route — 50°. length of sections: 1st difficulty category — 0 m, 2nd difficulty category — 530 m, 3rd difficulty category — 175 m, 4th difficulty category — 300 m, 5th difficulty category — 290 m, 6th difficulty category — 110 m.

II Asport

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Central Caucasus.
3. Bashkara peak, 4241 m, via the North Face.
4. Proposed category of difficulty – 5B, rated.
5. Route characteristics: height difference including the icefall 600 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty 510 m, avg. slope 65°, 6th category of difficulty 80 m, avg. slope 85°, average slope of the wall section of the route 60.5°
6. Pitons driven: rock 53, bolt 7/7, ice 15, chock stones 91/4
7. Total climbing time 17.5 hours

I. Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Central Caucasus, Adyl-Su gorge.
3. Bashkara peak via North wall 4241 m.
4. Complexity category 6A.
5. Height difference 568 m; length 693 m; average steepness 57°.
6. Number of pitons used:

   ice	rock	chocks	bolt
   		elements

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus.
3. Peak — Bashkara (4241 m) via the N wall of the 3rd shoulder.
4. Difficulty category — 6A.
5. Route characteristics:
   • total length — 935 m.
   • wall section length — 400 m.
   • height difference — 741 m.
   • average steepness 53°.

Bashkara — Gadyl traverse, cat. 4A, K. Agger route, I4

From the "Green Hotel" we move along the Jankuat glacier in the direction of the Jantugan plateau and the pass located between the Aristov rocks and the ridge of the Jantugan peak. By-passing the bergschrund on the left, we reach the Jantugan plateau. From the bivouac site, the path to the peak goes southwest across the plateau in the direction of the N-E ridge of Bashkara. At the last slope descending from this ridge (further up, a sheer wall of the Bashkara massif rises), they cross the bergschrund and go along the talus with rocks protruding from it. The "gendarme" is bypassed on the left along easy rocks. Having reached the ridge, you need to pass a small snow bridge that leads directly to the rather steep rocks of the ridge leading to the summit. Without reaching the ridge itself, but sticking to its left side, you need to overcome a number of crevices and chimneys along fairly strong rocks (pitch). Having passed this first stage, they overcome the second, easier belt of rocks, sticking to the left side of the ridge all the way to the summit. The tower encountered on the way is bypassed on the left. Above it lies a small snowpatch, which must be crossed near the rocks. Having gone 20 meters, they turn onto the rocks and reach a small depression that separates the Bashkara peak into two parts:

• The first part is the northern one, which is the highest point of the peak.
• From the lowest point of the peak - the southern one - the ridge goes to the Gadyl peak. The ascent from the bivouac on the Jantugan plateau to the summit takes 9-10 hours. From the Bashkara summit, the path goes to the left along the ridge in the direction of the Gadyl peak. There are a large number of "gendarmeries" on the ridge:
• The 1st is taken head-on,
• The 2nd is bypassed on the right.

143. Bashkara via the South Ridge of the South Shoulder (K. Tumanov's route, category 3A). The path from the “Jantugan” alplager (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac at the Jantugan Pass is described in route 146. From the pass, exit onto the Jantugan Plateau and move down along its right side. Bypass the glacier's icefall from the right, then descend along the moraine under the slopes of Lekzyr-Jantugan Peak onto the Lekzyr Glacier at the confluence of its Western and Eastern branches. Ascend along the flat surface on the right side of the Western branch, bypassing the Bashkara Gadyl massif from the south, until reaching the point where the Unnamed Glacier's icefall (which descends from a small cirque formed by Ullukara

142. Bashkara via North-Eastern Ridge (E. Ivanov's route, cat. 3B) The path from the Djantugan alpbase (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the Djantugan pass is described in route 146. From the pass, depart (at 3:00-4:00 am) to the Djantugan plateau. Traverse around the Djantugan peak from the left and exit to the North-Eastern ridge of Bashkara below the last (left) gentle snowy slope descending from the ridge saddle, which connects the Bashkara peak on the left and the Djantugan peak on the right. Turn right from the plateau and, having overcome the bergschrund, ascend directly up the gentle snowy, then scree slope. Further, ascend via easy, broken rocks, leaving the gendarme-connectors on the right, to the rocks of the North-Eastern ridge of Bashkara. 1-1.5 hours from the bivouac. When exiting onto the ridge, bypass the gendarme-connector on the left via easy, broken rocks (belay!). From the exit point to the ridge, turn left and move 50-60 m up via easy, broken rocks on the left side of the ridge, then across a short snowy connector below the rock ascent wall. Ascend 30 meters straight up the wall of medium difficulty to a ledge and traverse 10 m left along it. From there, ascend up-right 20-25 m via rocks of medium difficulty, then via easier and more broken rocks to the ridge (pitons for belay on the ascent wall!).