- Bashkara via North-Eastern Ridge (E. Ivanov's route, cat. 3B)
The path from the Djantugan alpbase (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the Djantugan pass is described in route 146. From the pass, depart (at 3:00-4:00 am) to the Djantugan plateau. Traverse around the Djantugan peak from the left and exit to the North-Eastern ridge of Bashkara below the last (left) gentle snowy slope descending from the ridge saddle, which connects the Bashkara peak on the left and the Djantugan peak on the right. Turn right from the plateau and, having overcome the bergschrund, ascend directly up the gentle snowy, then scree slope. Further, ascend via easy, broken rocks, leaving the gendarme-connectors on the right, to the rocks of the North-Eastern ridge of Bashkara. 1-1.5 hours from the bivouac.
When exiting onto the ridge, bypass the gendarme-connector on the left via easy, broken rocks (belay!). From the exit point to the ridge, turn left and move 50-60 m up via easy, broken rocks on the left side of the ridge, then across a short snowy connector below the rock ascent wall. Ascend 30 meters straight up the wall of medium difficulty to a ledge and traverse 10 m left along it. From there, ascend up-right 20-25 m via rocks of medium difficulty, then via easier and more broken rocks to the ridge (pitons for belay on the ascent wall!).
Further, ascend 60-70 m up via snowy rocks of medium difficulty on the ridge with snowy sections - to a "rusty" rock ascent. Bypass the ascent on the left via ledges and rocks of medium difficulty (pitons for belay!). From the ascent, continue up 30-35 m via easy rocks. Then, ascend 40-50 m up a steep snowy slope to exit below the summit tower. Ascend via a 5-6-meter internal corner (pitons for belay!) on the left or right side of the wall, then via easy rocks to a small connector on the South ridge. Turn right here and ascend via easy rocks on the ridge to the summit of Bashkara. 9-10 hours from the pass.
Descend via the ascent route to the pass - 5-6 hours. Total duration of the route is 3 days.
Special equipment for 4 people:
- main rope — 3×30 m
- accessory cord — 3 m
- rock pitons — 5-6
- ice pitons — 2-3
- rock hammers — 2
- carabiners — 8-10
- tent — 1
Possible bivouac locations:
- on the plateau
- on the ridge connector between Djantugan and Bashkara peaks
- on the summit
"Baksan Valley", A. F. Naumov