Bashkara

Ascent to Germogenov peak via the North face, 4A category of difficulty, height difference 513 m, made in 1986 by a group led by Kharianyk I.V.

Passport I. Ice and snow class. Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range. p. Germogenova, 3993 m, according to S V Caucasus Proposed category: 4A. Height difference — 513 m. Length of sections with 4th category difficulty — 155 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 51°. Number of ice screws used for belay — 76. Moving time — 6 hours. Without overnight stays.

### First Ascent of Peak Germogenov via the North Face Description of the first ascent of Peak Germogenov via the North Face, achieved in 1986 by a group of climbers.

REPORT on the first ascent of p. GERMOGENOVA via the North face tentatively Cat. diff. 3B protocol № 564 p. 4 dated October 28, 1986

Description of the ascent route to the summit via the north face with a detailed analysis of technical difficulties and recommendations.

May 12, 1949 Sports Society “Lokomotiv” Group The group consisted of Garf (climbing category), Marupin, Baldin, Mikhailov, Povarnin, Radovskaya, and Nekrasova. After an overnight stay at the “Lokomotiv-Tuva” hut, also known as the “Green Hotel,” they departed at 5:00 AM to ascend Peak Germogenova via a new route. The path follows along the right (orographically) moraine of the Bashkara glacier until it reaches the cirque. The cirque is traversed in a northwest direction, [illegible, possibly omitted] to reach the base of the couloir descending from the saddle between Peak Germogenova and Cheget-Kara-Bashi. They had to overcome a small icefall, which was easily bypassed on the right. The group reached a small glacial lake and took a short rest. It was 7:00 AM, and they were at the base of the couloir from the saddle between Peak Germogenova and Cheget-Kara-Bashi. As they ascended the avalanche cones, they quickly gained altitude via the couloir, which had a gradient of about 30° in its lower section and increased to about 50° in its upper section. The couloir is quite wide (60–70 m²) and covered with good firn. It is the main route for all avalanches and rockfalls coming from the slopes of Peak Germogenova and Cheget-Kara-Bashi. A deep avalanche groove runs through the middle of the couloir; however, the avalanches are so powerful that they overflow the right groove, affecting a significant part of the slope.

Description of climbing routes to Germogenov Peak (3993 m) in Central Caucasus: via S wall (4A cat. dif.) and via NW ridge (3A cat. dif.).

II AS II ORT I. Ice and snow class. Central Caucasus. Pik Germogenova, 3993 m, via N wall Proposed 4A cat. dif. Height difference — 513 m. Length of sections with 5 cat. dif. — 155 m Average steepness of the wall section — 51°. Ice screws used for belay — 76. Trekking hours — 6. No overnight stays.

Description of the ascent route to Peak Germogenova via the northern slope, category 3A difficulty, with a detailed indication of the path, terrain, and equipment used.

I. Climbing category - technical North spur of the Main Caucasian Range. Peak Germogenova via the left part of the N wall Proposed category: 3A Route description: snow-ice, height difference (from the saddle) - 423 m, average steepness of the wall section - 46° Number of protection points - 36 (ice screws) Total climbing time - 6 hours Team leader: Laptev Alexander Leonidovich, Candidate Master of Sports Team members: Ivanov G.A., Candidate Master of Sports

Description of the route to Peak Germogenova (3343 m) along the 3rd ridge, complexity category 2B, with a detailed description of the path and approximate time calculation.

Peak GERMOGENOVA, 3343 m via 3rd ridge, cat. cl. 2B, climbing route Bivouac on "Rusty Rocks" (Ryzhiye skaly). It takes 2 hours to walk from AUSB to dzhantugan. From the bivouac site, we head under the first snowpatch on the right, which is quite steep and descends from the northwest ridge of the summit. After ascending the snowpatch to the ridge, we proceed along the scree and severely damaged rocks to reach the beginning of a distinct ridge. From here to the snowy saddle under the summit tower, there are various possible routes. If the firn is in good condition, a significant part of the rocks can be bypassed on the left while wearing crampons, which saves a lot of time. However, usually, one has to ascend directly through the rocks. The rocks are mostly of medium difficulty, with insurance provided by выступы (rocky ledges); there are sections of damaged rocks. Deviations to the southern side of the ridge (up to 20–40 m) are possible where deemed expedient. On the snowy saddle, an overnight stay is possible; there is water. From here, the summit tower is circumvented on the right, from the southern side. We ascend to the summit ridge to the left of the cairn. The descent follows the ascent route. Approximate time calculation: From "Rusty Rocks" to reaching the ridge — 1–1.5 hours. Ascending to the snowy saddle — 5–8 hours. Ascending to the summit — 1.5–2.5 hours. Descending via the ascent route — from 6 to 9 hours. «Tianey»

Traversing the Gadyl - Bashkara massif, category 4A difficulty level, duration 4 days, special equipment required.

Traverse of the Gadyl - Bashkara ridge (O. Aristov's route, category 4A, fig. 29, 30, 31). The path from the Djantugan alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the Gadyl peak is described in route 144. From Gadyl, traverse along the simple, partially ruined rocks of the long, jagged, almost horizontal, snow-covered ridge, bypassing all the gendarmes on the left, to reach the South shoulder of Bashkara peak. From the shoulder, rappel, then descend along the simple ridge to the saddle. Further, along the snowy ridge, exit under the 2nd gendarme. Bypass the gendarme along the ledges on the left (belay!). Then, along the moderately difficult rocks of the ridge, overcoming the 1st gendarme directly, ascend to the summit of Bashkara. From the Gadyl peak, 3 hours. Descent along the Northeast ridge (see route 142). Duration of the route is 4 days. Special equipment for 4 people: main rope - 2 × 30 m, auxiliary cord - 4 m, rock pitons - 6-8, ice pitons - 3-4, rock hammers - 2, carabiners - 8-10, crampons - 4 pairs, tent - 1. Possible bivouac sites - on the platforms on the left side of the main ridge (see also routes 142, 144).

Ascent to Gadyl peak via South Ridge, category 3A, 4 days, route description and required equipment.

Gadyл via South Ridge (K. Tumanov's route, category 3A). The path from the "Jantugan" alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the snow pad of the South Ridge of Bashkara's South shoulder is described in route 143. From the pad (without backpacks, with crampons!), traverse the snow slope to the right in the direction of the South Ridge. Having passed under the rocks of the (first) left buttress, cross a steep snowy couloir and ascend a steep snowy slope to the rocks of the (second) right buttress of Gadyл peak. Along the snowy slope, then the rocks of moderate difficulty of the buttress or its right side, overcoming small walls directly, exit onto simple rocks and follow them to the rocky belt. From the bivouac - 5-6 hours. Under the wall of the rocky belt, traverse to the right, then via simple rocks and a snowy couloir, ascend to the shoulder of Gadyл peak's South Ridge, above the Big Gendarme in the ridge. From here, along the simple and moderately difficult monolithic rocks of the ridge with small difficult walls, then along the snowy ridge, ascend to Gadyл. From the point of exit onto the South Ridge - 3 hours. Descend via the ascent route or via the East Ridge (see route 144). The duration of the route is 4 days. Special equipment for 4 people: main rope - 2 × 30 m, auxiliary cord - 2 m, rock pitons - 5-6, ice pitons - 2-3, rock hammers - 2, carabiners - 8-10, crampons - 4 pairs, tent - 1. Possible bivouac locations - on the shoulder of the South Ridge, on ledges, on the summit. ("Baksan Valley", A.F. Naumov)

Ascent to Gadyl peak via the Eastern ridge, cat. III, from the Djantugan alpbase in 3 days, with specialized equipment.

Gadyl via the Eastern ridge (O. Aristov's route, Cat. 3A). The path from the "Jantugan" alpine camp (group of 4-5 people) to the summit of Lekzyr-Jantugansky with the initial bivouac on the rocks of the Jantugan Pass is described in route 146. From the summit of Lekzyr-Jantugansky, descend westward along the snowy, then rocky ridge under the rocky tower of the 1st gendarme of the long horizontal snow-covered rocky Eastern ridge of Gadyl summit. Traverse the tower via the snowy slopes (belay!) on the left. Further along the long rocky-snowy ridge (overhanging cornices!), both gendarmes on it are traversed on the left, and exit under the rocky-snowy ascent of the Eastern ridge of Gadyl summit. Via the snow-covered rocks

Traverse of the peaks Bashkara and Gadyl (4A cat. of difficulty), K. Agger's route, description of the path, terrain features and recommendations for passing the route.

Bashkara — Gadyl traverse, cat. 4A, K. Agger route, I4 From the "Green Hotel" we move along the Jankuat glacier in the direction of the Jantugan plateau and the pass located between the Aristov rocks and the ridge of the Jantugan peak. By-passing the bergschrund on the left, we reach the Jantugan plateau. From the bivouac site, the path to the peak goes southwest across the plateau in the direction of the N-E ridge of Bashkara. At the last slope descending from this ridge (further up, a sheer wall of the Bashkara massif rises), they cross the bergschrund and go along the talus with rocks protruding from it. The "gendarme" is bypassed on the left along easy rocks. Having reached the ridge, you need to pass a small snow bridge that leads directly to the rather steep rocks of the ridge leading to the summit. Without reaching the ridge itself, but sticking to its left side, you need to overcome a number of crevices and chimneys along fairly strong rocks (pitch). Having passed this first stage, they overcome the second, easier belt of rocks, sticking to the left side of the ridge all the way to the summit. The tower encountered on the way is bypassed on the left. Above it lies a small snowpatch, which must be crossed near the rocks. Having gone 20 meters, they turn onto the rocks and reach a small depression that separates the Bashkara peak into two parts: The first part is the northern one, which is the highest point of the peak. From the lowest point of the peak - the southern one - the ridge goes to the Gadyl peak. The ascent from the bivouac on the Jantugan plateau to the summit takes 9-10 hours. From the Bashkara summit, the path goes to the left along the ridge in the direction of the Gadyl peak. There are a large number of "gendarmeries" on the ridge: The 1st is taken head-on, The 2nd is bypassed on the right.