Bashkara

Ascent certificate for the peak Bashkara (4241 m) via the North wall of the 3rd shoulder, category of difficulty 6A, technical characteristics of the route and ascent details.

Ascent Passport Ascent class — technical. Ascent area — Central Caucasus. Peak — Bashkara (4241 m) via the N wall of the 3rd shoulder. Difficulty category — 6A. Route characteristics: total length — 935 m. wall section length — 400 m. height difference — 741 m. average steepness 53°.

An account of the ascent made by a climbing team to the summit of Bashkara via the North Wall, a Category 6B climb, during the 1994 CIS Alpine Championship.

I. Passport Technical class. Central Caucasus, Adyl-Su gorge. Bashkara peak via North wall 4241 m. Complexity category 6A. Height difference 568 m; length 693 m; average steepness 57°. Number of pitons used: | ice | rock | chocks | bolt | | :------: | :------: | :-------: | :--------: | | | | elements | |

Description of a Category 5B route to the summit of Bashkara (4241 m) via the North face, located in the Central Caucasus, climbed by a team of mountaineers in 1984.

II Asport Rock climbing category. Central Caucasus. Bashkara peak, 4241 m, via the North Face. Proposed category of difficulty – 5B, rated. Route characteristics: height difference including the icefall 600 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty 510 m, avg. slope 65°, 6th category of difficulty 80 m, avg. slope 85°, average slope of the wall section of the route 60.5° Pitons driven: rock 53, bolt 7/7, ice 15, chock stones 91/4 Total climbing time 17.5 hours

Ascent to the summit of Bashkara (4241 m) via the north wall along the Grigorenko-Prigoda route, rated 5B category of difficulty.

Ascent Logbook Ascent class — technical Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Prielbrusye Peak, its height, and ascent route — Bashkara (4241 m) via the North wall (Yu. Grigorenko-Prigoda route) Difficulty category — 5B Route characteristics: elevation gain: from Bashkara glacier — 920 m, from bergschrund — 670 m. average steepness: wall section — 62°, entire route — 50°. length of sections: 1st difficulty category — 0 m, 2nd difficulty category — 530 m, 3rd difficulty category — 175 m, 4th difficulty category — 300 m, 5th difficulty category — 290 m, 6th difficulty category — 110 m.

### Mountaineering Route Details Passport and detailed description of a Category 6A complexity route to the summit of **Baškara** in the Central Caucasus, including traversal details and technical information.

Ascent Record Central Caucasus, Adyl-Su gorge, section 2.4 according to CMGA. Bashkara peak, 4241 m, via the North Face. Claimed 6A category of difficulty, first ascent. Nature of the route — combined. Elevation gain of the route 540 m. Route length 926 m. Length of sections: 5th category of difficulty — 345 m; 6th category of difficulty — 51 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 70°, entire route — 55°. Pitons left on the route: total 0

Bashkara via North-Eastern Ridge (E. Ivanov's route, cat. 3B) The path from the Djantugan alpbase (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the Djantugan pass is described in route 146. From the pass, depart (at 3:00-4:00 am) to the Djantugan plateau. Traverse around the Djantugan peak from the left and exit to the North-Eastern ridge of Bashkara below the last (left) gentle snowy slope descending from the ridge saddle, which connects the Bashkara peak on the left and the Djantugan peak on the right. Turn right from the plateau and, having overcome the bergschrund, ascend directly up the gentle snowy, then scree slope. Further, ascend via easy, broken rocks, leaving the gendarme-connectors on the right, to the rocks of the North-Eastern ridge of Bashkara. 1-1.5 hours from the bivouac. When exiting onto the ridge, bypass the gendarme-connector on the left via easy, broken rocks (belay!). From the exit point to the ridge, turn left and move 50-60 m up via easy, broken rocks on the left side of the ridge, then across a short snowy connector below the rock ascent wall. Ascend 30 meters straight up the wall of medium difficulty to a ledge and traverse 10 m left along it. From there, ascend up-right 20-25 m via rocks of medium difficulty, then via easier and more broken rocks to the ridge (pitons for belay on the ascent wall!).

Bashkara via the South Ridge of the South Shoulder (K. Tumanov's route, category 3A). The path from the “Jantugan” alplager (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac at the Jantugan Pass is described in route 146. From the pass, exit onto the Jantugan Plateau and move down along its right side. Bypass the glacier's icefall from the right, then descend along the moraine under the slopes of Lekzyr-Jantugan Peak onto the Lekzyr Glacier at the confluence of its Western and Eastern branches. Ascend along the flat surface on the right side of the Western branch, bypassing the Bashkara Gadyl massif from the south, until reaching the point where the Unnamed Glacier's icefall (which descends from a small cirque formed by Ullukara