Bashkara

First ascent via the left part of Ullu-Kara's northeast face, a challenging ice and snow route, category 5B complexity, with a detailed description and tactical ascent plan.

I. Climbing Passport Climbing category — technical. Climbing area — Central Caucasus. Peak — Ullu-Kara via the left part of the north-eastern wall (first ascent). Difficulty category: 5B, approximate. Route characteristics: total length — 1545 m. height difference — 1300 m. average steepness — 47°. length of sections with 5.6 difficulty category — 500 m

Ascent to Gadyl peak via the Eastern ridge, cat. III, from the Djantugan alpbase in 3 days, with specialized equipment.

Gadyl via the Eastern ridge (O. Aristov's route, Cat. 3A). The path from the "Jantugan" alpine camp (group of 4-5 people) to the summit of Lekzyr-Jantugansky with the initial bivouac on the rocks of the Jantugan Pass is described in route 146. From the summit of Lekzyr-Jantugansky, descend westward along the snowy, then rocky ridge under the rocky tower of the 1st gendarme of the long horizontal snow-covered rocky Eastern ridge of Gadyl summit. Traverse the tower via the snowy slopes (belay!) on the left. Further along the long rocky-snowy ridge (overhanging cornices!), both gendarmes on it are traversed on the left, and exit under the rocky-snowy ascent of the Eastern ridge of Gadyl summit. Via the snow-covered rocks

Description of the ascent to the summit of Jan-Tugan via the Northwest Ridge, category IIIB difficulty, made by the "Dvigatel" team consisting of 8 people.

Description First Ascent of Djan-Tugan Via the North-West Ridge This ascent involved 8 people (the "Lokomotiv" team) divided into two groups of four, with a 1-hour interval between them. First group: Garf (team leader) Karavaev Povarnin Sharunin

Traversing the Gadyl - Bashkara massif, category 4A difficulty level, duration 4 days, special equipment required.

Traverse of the Gadyl - Bashkara ridge (O. Aristov's route, category 4A, fig. 29, 30, 31). The path from the Djantugan alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the Gadyl peak is described in route 144. From Gadyl, traverse along the simple, partially ruined rocks of the long, jagged, almost horizontal, snow-covered ridge, bypassing all the gendarmes on the left, to reach the South shoulder of Bashkara peak. From the shoulder, rappel, then descend along the simple ridge to the saddle. Further, along the snowy ridge, exit under the 2nd gendarme. Bypass the gendarme along the ledges on the left (belay!). Then, along the moderately difficult rocks of the ridge, overcoming the 1st gendarme directly, ascend to the summit of Bashkara. From the Gadyl peak, 3 hours. Descent along the Northeast ridge (see route 142). Duration of the route is 4 days. Special equipment for 4 people: main rope - 2 × 30 m, auxiliary cord - 4 m, rock pitons - 6-8, ice pitons - 3-4, rock hammers - 2, carabiners - 8-10, crampons - 4 pairs, tent - 1. Possible bivouac sites - on the platforms on the left side of the main ridge (see also routes 142, 144).

Ascent to Gadyl peak via South Ridge, category 3A, 4 days, route description and required equipment.

Gadyл via South Ridge (K. Tumanov's route, category 3A). The path from the "Jantugan" alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the snow pad of the South Ridge of Bashkara's South shoulder is described in route 143. From the pad (without backpacks, with crampons!), traverse the snow slope to the right in the direction of the South Ridge. Having passed under the rocks of the (first) left buttress, cross a steep snowy couloir and ascend a steep snowy slope to the rocks of the (second) right buttress of Gadyл peak. Along the snowy slope, then the rocks of moderate difficulty of the buttress or its right side, overcoming small walls directly, exit onto simple rocks and follow them to the rocky belt. From the bivouac - 5-6 hours. Under the wall of the rocky belt, traverse to the right, then via simple rocks and a snowy couloir, ascend to the shoulder of Gadyл peak's South Ridge, above the Big Gendarme in the ridge. From here, along the simple and moderately difficult monolithic rocks of the ridge with small difficult walls, then along the snowy ridge, ascend to Gadyл. From the point of exit onto the South Ridge - 3 hours. Descend via the ascent route or via the East Ridge (see route 144). The duration of the route is 4 days. Special equipment for 4 people: main rope - 2 × 30 m, auxiliary cord - 2 m, rock pitons - 5-6, ice pitons - 2-3, rock hammers - 2, carabiners - 8-10, crampons - 4 pairs, tent - 1. Possible bivouac locations - on the shoulder of the South Ridge, on ledges, on the summit. ("Baksan Valley", A.F. Naumov)

### Mountaineering Route Details Passport and detailed description of a Category 6A complexity route to the summit of **Baškara** in the Central Caucasus, including traversal details and technical information.

Ascent Record Central Caucasus, Adyl-Su gorge, section 2.4 according to CMGA. Bashkara peak, 4241 m, via the North Face. Claimed 6A category of difficulty, first ascent. Nature of the route — combined. Elevation gain of the route 540 m. Route length 926 m. Length of sections: 5th category of difficulty — 345 m; 6th category of difficulty — 51 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 70°, entire route — 55°. Pitons left on the route: total 0

An account of the ascent made by a climbing team to the summit of Bashkara via the North Wall, a Category 6B climb, during the 1994 CIS Alpine Championship.

I. Passport Technical class. Central Caucasus, Adyl-Su gorge. Bashkara peak via North wall 4241 m. Complexity category 6A. Height difference 568 m; length 693 m; average steepness 57°. Number of pitons used: | ice | rock | chocks | bolt | | :------: | :------: | :-------: | :--------: | | | | elements | |

Ascent to the summit of Ullu-Kara via the northwestern spur of the northwestern wall, description of the route, its characteristics and passage.

Central Caucasus ULLUKARA 4037 m via the northwest wall buttress. (Tentatively — 2B cat. difficulty.) Temirov Anatoly Magometovich 1st class Temirov Mukhamed Magometovich 1st class Bauman MSTU Sports Club. Geographic Description of the Climbing Area The ULLUKARA peak is located in the Main Caucasian Range, between the peaks of Bashkara to the east and Pik Volnaya Ispaniya to the west. This section of the Main Caucasian Range is in the Baksan Valley area. The Baksan Valley area is one of the most visited regions by climbers in the Caucasus. The alpine camps located in the area, good roads, and numerous beautiful peaks make this area attractive to climbers. Many climbing routes of varying difficulty have been laid out in this region. The most beautiful peaks of the Caucasus, such as Ushba, Shkhelda, Chatyn, Volnaya Ispaniya, and many others, are located in this part of the Central Caucasus. The Ullukara peak is situated in the upper Adylsu gorge. A good automobile road leads from Nalchik to the "Djan-Tugan" alpine camp. From the "Djan-Tugan" alpine camp to the Kashkatash glacier plateau, a good trail is laid out. Further, the path goes along the Kashkatash glacier to the ascent to its upper plateau. The ULLUKARA peak is a huge rocky massif covered with a powerful ice cap. It rises with black walls above the Kashkatash glacier. To the northeast from Ullukara, a short northern spur extends with the peaks of Pik Germogenova and Chegetkara. Between the peaks of Ullukara and Pik Germogenova lies a glacier. The weather in this region is usually good, with short, rare periods of bad weather. Fogs are common, coming from the south through the Kashkatash pass.

Bashkara via the South Ridge of the South Shoulder (K. Tumanov's route, category 3A). The path from the “Jantugan” alplager (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac at the Jantugan Pass is described in route 146. From the pass, exit onto the Jantugan Plateau and move down along its right side. Bypass the glacier's icefall from the right, then descend along the moraine under the slopes of Lekzyr-Jantugan Peak onto the Lekzyr Glacier at the confluence of its Western and Eastern branches. Ascend along the flat surface on the right side of the Western branch, bypassing the Bashkara Gadyl massif from the south, until reaching the point where the Unnamed Glacier's icefall (which descends from a small cirque formed by Ullukara

Ascent to the summit of Bashkara (4241 m) via the north wall along the Grigorenko-Prigoda route, rated 5B category of difficulty.

Ascent Logbook Ascent class — technical Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Prielbrusye Peak, its height, and ascent route — Bashkara (4241 m) via the North wall (Yu. Grigorenko-Prigoda route) Difficulty category — 5B Route characteristics: elevation gain: from Bashkara glacier — 920 m, from bergschrund — 670 m. average steepness: wall section — 62°, entire route — 50°. length of sections: 1st difficulty category — 0 m, 2nd difficulty category — 530 m, 3rd difficulty category — 175 m, 4th difficulty category — 300 m, 5th difficulty category — 290 m, 6th difficulty category — 110 m.