Fig. 7 24. Doppakh Western peak via the Southern ridge (a combined route by L. Artsyshevskaya, category 4A, Fig. 7). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (a group of 4–6 people) to the summit of Yuzhny Doppakh is described in route 22. From the summit, descend along the simple snow-covered Northern ridge in the direction of Zapadny Doppakh to two rocky gendarmes. Bypass the gendarmes (belay on a rope):

• to the right — along a steep snow-ice slope,
• to the left — along the rocky ledges of the wall (“loose” rocks)

Fig. 7 Fig. 8 27. Doppakh West via Northwest Ridge (I. Leonov's combined route, category 4B difficulty, Fig. 7, 8). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–6 people) to the lower shoulder of the Northwest ridge, the summit of Doppakh West with the initial bivouac at a small kar in the left side of Sugansky Pass under the Southeast rib of Suganbashi is described in route 26. From the shoulder (bivouac possible) approach the First rock uplift of the Northwest ridge and ascend a 15 m inclined plate, then via difficult rocks of a 12 m steep inner corner to this uplift. Along 35–40 m destroyed rocks of medium difficulty on the Northwest ridge, approach a vertical wall of a zhendarmer. From under the zhendarmer:

• 15 m descent from the ridge to the left onto a vaguely defined shelf;
• traverse 30 m along the shelf to bypass the zhendarmer.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — Technical (first ascent).
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus. Sugansky Ridge.
3. Doppakh Z. NE face. NE ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 6A.
5. Height difference of the wall section — 750 m. Total to the summit — 1098 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 210 m. Average wall slope — 65°.
6. Pitons driven: rock 124/29, bolted 3, chocks 95/16
7. Movement hours — 67 (6 days).

Doppakh South

Rock, cat. 3

3 ridge — ski descent The route was first ascended in 1937. From the "Nakhashbita" clearing, follow the Doppakh glacier and then to the ridge separating a small unnamed glacier and a wide scree-filled couloir on the southwest slopes of Doppakh peak. The southern path coincides with the above-described Route IX. Here, on a wide scree ridge before the western wall of the peak, there's a campsite (photo 29). From the "Nakhashbita" clearing, it takes 3–4 hours. From the campsite, ascend along the ridge to the wall. The rocks are of medium difficulty. The wall is about 200 m high, composed of difficult, sometimes wet rocks, overcome with careful belaying using ledges and 10–15 pitons. Upon exiting the wall onto the southern ridge, a 20-meter wall is overcome using the Zalpug method. From here, follow a chimney about 10 m. The ascent takes 4–5 hours. Variations:

• The ascent up the wall can be done slightly to the left (north) of the described route — a couloir variant.
• This variant is more difficult. The descent from the peak to the campsite and further to the "Nakhashbita" clearing follows Route 1B and takes about 4 hours.

34. Doppakh Eastern — Western (A. Zyuzin's combined route, 5A cat. dif.).

The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow or the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu river, not far from the tongue of the Nakhashbita glacier (4-8 people group), to the summit of Eastern Doppakh is described in routes 31, 32. From Eastern Doppakh, descend in the direction of Central Doppakh along a 40-meter steep rocky ridge to a small saddle with a summit tower. From it, make a 30 m rappel to the left, then along a ledge on the left side of the tower, exit to the western ridge of the summit. Further, along rocks of medium difficulty, ascend 30 m along the ridge to the Black Gendarme. From it, make a 25 m rappel along steep, destroyed rocks to the ridge. From here, along simple, destroyed rocks of the ridge, passing a saddle, ascend to the Flat Gendarme. From the Gendarme, descend to an ice-snow saddle. From the saddle, along a simple 40-50-meter ice-snow ridge with sections of rocks, ascend to the Central Gendarme (Doppakh-3). From Central Gendarme, descend along the ridge or ledges on its right side to the inclined northward Gendarme Tower. From under the Tower, make a 25 m rappel to the left. Bypassing the Gendarme, ascend to the saddle of the ridge. Further, along a steep, complex ridge, ascend to the Gendarme Kupol. From Kupol, descend along the ice-snow ridge to a snow plateau. Set up a bivouac on the plateau. From Eastern Doppakh, 6-8 hours. Along the plateau, bypass the large Pre-summit Gendarme from the right and, overcoming the bergschrund, ascend 80 m along a steep ice-snow slope to the rocky base of Central Doppakh. Along difficult rocks of a 50-60-meter wall, ascend to the sharp ridge of the summit and along it, exit to Central Doppakh. From the plateau, 2-3 hours.

33. Doppakh Western — Eastern (combined route by I. Suzhaev, 5a category of difficulty).

The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow or the base camp on the Psygansu river bank, under the tongue of the Nakhashbita glacier (group of 4–8 people), to the Western Doppakh summit is described in the routes:

• 24
• 26
• 27
• 28 From the Western summit, a simple 120–150-meter snow slope of the Eastern ridge leads to a small snow plateau in the direction of the Central summit. The bivouac is on the plateau. From here:
• 180–200 m along the snowy Eastern ridge,
• then along a steep 60–80-meter icy slope to a site near the ice-snow col between the Western and Central summits of the massif.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent type: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Caucasus: 2.6: Sugansky Ridge
3. Peak, route: Pik Zagadok, 3737 m: Eastern tower via the Eastern wall
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 2A rock: semi-independent
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — about 650 m, route length — 800 m, section lengths: 2nd category of difficulty — 700 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 65°
6. Pitons used: 3 pcs., chocks — 4, "friends" — 2
7. Time spent on the route / days: 7 / 1
8. Number of nights spent: 1 — at a bivouac

Fig. 18 65. Laboda Glavnaya via North контрфорс and North-East ridge (combined route by E. Batukaev, 4A cat. dif., Fig. 18). From the “Nakhashbita” meadow (group of 4–8 people) descend to the Khares River and near the confluence of the Orsdon River, cross to the left bank of Khares. From the river, ascend along the steep grassy slope of the gully, which gradually narrows into a narrow couloir with steep rocky walls (rockfall possible). From the upper part of the couloir, traverse simple rocks and ledges to the right onto the wide talus ridge of the North контрфорс of the Laboda massif. Further along the talus and simple

Ascent Log

to the main peak of the Laboda massif (4314 m) via the Northwest ridge (left edge) 5B cat. diff.

1. Technical category
2. Main Caucasus Range, Digoria region, Laboda massif.
3. Laboda peak 4314 m.
4. The route is combined.
5. Pitons hammered: rock — 132 (with stoppers) and 4 drilled; ice — 21; for creating ITO — 3.
6. Number of climbing hours spent on ascent — 39, on descent — 6.
7. Two overnight stays:
   1. On the ridge before the Utug rock pinnacle — sitting;

Moscow Regional Council of the Zeniť Voluntary Sports Society

Ascent

on Mt. Laboda via the western ridge Digoria 1971

Brief geographical, geological, and sporting characteristics of the area

Laboda Peak

Laboda Peak (4314 m) is located on the Main Caucasus Range, between Gese-Tau to the west and Tsiteli to the southeast. Along with other peaks in the area, it encloses the Tana-don gorge. The mountain is situated within the North Ossetian ASSR, in the region known as Digoria. There is no permanent alpine camp in Digoria; however, the area's beauty and the popularity of its routes attract mountaineers and tourists, despite the long and challenging hikes to the peaks and passes. The mountain slopes are covered with beautiful deciduous forests, and there are many narzan springs.