Fig.
7
Fig. 8
- Doppakh West via Northwest Ridge (I. Leonov's combined route, category 4B difficulty, Fig. 7, 8).
The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–6 people) to the lower shoulder of the Northwest ridge, the summit of Doppakh West with the initial bivouac at a small kar in the left side of Sugansky Pass under the Southeast rib of Suganbashi is described in route 26.
From the shoulder (bivouac possible) approach the First rock uplift of the Northwest ridge and ascend a 15 m inclined plate, then via difficult rocks of a 12 m steep inner corner to this uplift. Along 35–40 m destroyed rocks of medium difficulty on the Northwest ridge, approach a vertical wall of a zhendarmer.
From under the zhendarmer:
- 15 m descent from the ridge to the left onto a vaguely defined shelf;
- traverse 30 m along the shelf to bypass the zhendarmer.
Then straight up (pitched rope protection) via difficult rocks of the inner corner, a 6 m difficult smooth rib, a 20 m steep section with few holds and cracks of above-average difficulty, a vertical groove (pitched rope protection), and 15 m destroyed rocks of medium difficulty — ascent to the second ridge uplift.
Further up via rocks of medium difficulty on the Northwest ridge, overcoming zhendarms head-on, approach the third uplift.
From here straight up (pitched rope protection) via a 5 m difficult wall, an 80 m steep rock summit ascent on the Northwest ridge of above-average difficulty, and a 15 m simple ridge — to the Big (West) zhendarmer.
From the zhendarmer, descend 80–100 m along the Northwest ridge to a snowy col.
From it, ascend 100–120 m along the steep, broad snow-covered rocky Northwest ridge to the West shoulder and from it along the broad snowy ridge — to the summit of Doppakh West. From Sugansky Pass, 10–12 hours.
Descent via the East ridge and south couloir (see route 29). Route duration is 3 days.
Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoriya, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.