Doppakh South
Rock, cat. 3
3 ridge — ski descent
The route was first ascended in 1937. From the "Nakhashbita" clearing, follow the Doppakh glacier and then to the ridge separating a small unnamed glacier and a wide scree-filled couloir on the southwest slopes of Doppakh peak. The southern path coincides with the above-described Route IX. Here, on a wide scree ridge before the western wall of the peak, there's a campsite (photo 29).
From the "Nakhashbita" clearing, it takes 3–4 hours. From the campsite, ascend along the ridge to the wall. The rocks are of medium difficulty. The wall is about 200 m high, composed of difficult, sometimes wet rocks, overcome with careful belaying using ledges and 10–15 pitons.
Upon exiting the wall onto the southern ridge, a 20-meter wall is overcome using the Zalpug method. From here, follow a chimney about 10 m. The ascent takes 4–5 hours.
Variations:
- The ascent up the wall can be done slightly to the left (north) of the described route — a couloir variant.
- This variant is more difficult.
The descent from the peak to the campsite and further to the "Nakhashbita" clearing follows Route 1B and takes about 4 hours.
Route Recommendations
- Be cautious of rockfall from the wall.
- Leave a control cairn on a barely visible ledge in the middle of the wall.
- Bring crampons (up to the campsite), 8–10 rock pitons and 2 ice axes, ropes for 3 rappel points, and other gear.