Fig. 18
- Laboda Glavnaya via North контрфорс and North-East ridge (combined route by E. Batukaev, 4A cat. dif., Fig. 18).
From the “Nakhashbita” meadow (group of 4–8 people) descend to the Khares River and near the confluence of the Orsdon River, cross to the left bank of Khares. From the river, ascend along the steep grassy slope of the gully, which gradually narrows into a narrow couloir with steep rocky walls (rockfall possible).
From the upper part of the couloir, traverse simple rocks and ledges to the right onto the wide talus ridge of the North контрфорс of the Laboda massif. Further along the talus and simple rocks, местами снежникам wide North контрфорс (rockfall possible) approach the platforms below a solitary rock.
The platforms serve as the initial bivouac. From the “Nakhashbita” meadow — 5–6 hours.
From the initial bivouac near the rock:
- Ascend simple and moderately difficult rocks
- Then, along the wide ice-snow ridge of the контрфорс with rocky outcrops, approach the base of the North контрфорс ascent (North slope of the North-East ridge)
- Along the steep ice-snow ridge — slope of the North контрфорс ascent with snow-covered rocky outcrops of moderate difficulty and walls of above-average difficulty, intersected by ice couloirs (rockfall, avalanches possible — piton belay)
- Then, along the steep ice-snow slope (avalanches — piton belay), ascend to the North-East ridge of the Glavnaya Laboda summit
On the south side of the ridge, there is a platform suitable for a bivouac. From the initial bivouac on the North контрфорс — 9–11 hours.
From the point of reaching the ridge, turn right and, bypassing the rocky wall on the right, ascend the long, gently sloping ice-snow North-East ridge. After the first ice-snow ascent — along the narrow 100–120-meter snow ridge (with cornices) approach the rocks. Further — along the severely damaged simple and moderately difficult rocky North-East ridge, exit onto the wide snow ridge.
The further ascent to the Glavnaya Laboda summit and descent along the North-East ridge are described in route 63.
Route duration — 3 days.
Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., “Fizkultura i sport”, 1976.