33. Doppakh Western — Eastern (combined route by I. Suzhaev, 5a category of difficulty).

The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow or the base camp on the Psygansu river bank, under the tongue of the Nakhashbita glacier (group of 4–8 people), to the Western Doppakh summit is described in the routes:

• 24
• 26
• 27
• 28

From the Western summit, a simple 120–150-meter snow slope of the Eastern ridge leads to a small snow plateau in the direction of the Central summit. The bivouac is on the plateau.

From here:

• 180–200 m along the snowy Eastern ridge,
• then along a steep 60–80-meter icy slope to a site near the ice-snow col between the Western and Central summits of the massif.

Along the sharp 60-meter snowy ridge of the col (cornices) approach the snow ascent of the Western ridge of the Central Doppakh.

The further ascent along the Western ridge to the Central Doppakh is described in route 30. From the bivouac on a small snow plateau under the Western summit — 7–9 hours.

From the Central summit, descend 20 m along the sharp Eastern ridge, then descend 2–3 m to the right and traverse 25 m along the shelves along the wall of the summit tower to the Eastern ridge. Descend 15 m along the ridge to a saddle under the big Pre-summit gendarme. From the saddle, descend 80 m to the left and down along a steep ice-snow slope with a bergschrund in the lower part to a small snow plateau. The bivouac is on the plateau. From the Central summit — 1.5 hours.

From the plateau, a gentle ascent of 90 m to the snow Kupol gendarme. From the gendarme, descend 80–90 m along a simple ridge to the 15-meter Maly gendarme. Ascend it head-on along rocks of medium difficulty and descend along 12-meter slabby rocks, then along a snow patch to a saddle. A bivouac is possible.

From the saddle:

• 45–50 m to the right and up along a steep snow slope to a shelf,
• from the shelf — along 30-meter slabs to the Bashnya gendarme.

From the bivouac on the plateau — 1.5 hours.

From the Bashnya, descend 30 m down, then traverse 12–15 m through a steep couloir to the left, further along a steep ice-snow 60-meter ridge — ascent to the Central gendarme (Doppakh-3).

From the gendarme:

• descend 45–50 m along a simple snow-covered rocky ridge to an ice-snow saddle under the Plosky gendarme,
• initially bypass the gendarme from the right, with an 8–10-meter descent along a couloir, then a 45-meter traverse with an ascent along difficult slabs along an inclined crack to a black rocky tooth on the ridge of the flat gendarme. From the tooth, along difficult rocks of the ridge, exit to the summit of the flat gendarme. From it, descend along difficult slabby rocks of the ridge to a saddle. A bivouac is possible.

Along the rocky ridge with snow sections of the saddle, approach the solitary Cherny gendarme and ascend it 30 m along steep difficult rocks. From the gendarme, descend 30 m down along a snowy ridge to the base of the summit tower of the Eastern Doppakh. From under the tower, descend 5 m from the ridge to the right and traverse 25–30 m to the end of a rocky shelf. From here, along steep sections:

• a 6–7-meter smooth slab,
• a difficult smooth 8-meter wall,
• ascent to the Western ridge.

Then, along steep rocks of the Western ridge, ascend 30 m to the Eastern Doppakh. From the bivouac on the snow plateau east of the Central summit — 6–8 hours.

Descend along the Eastern ridge (see route 32). The duration of the route is 4–5 days.