1. Group Composition

The ascent was made by the LOS DSO "TRUD" team in the following composition:

1. Manoilov Yu.S. — leader, CMS
2. Antipenko E.S. — participant, CMS
3. Antonovsky I.D. — participant, CMS
4. Vasiliev B.P. — participant, CMS
5. Solonnikov Vikt.A. — participant, MS This composition was planned according to the application, and during preparation and ascent, it remained unchanged.

V. Kirpich

![img-0.jpeg](https://summitx.info/media/1/UMHtuItGsZD4twbBwNHQlykIJ0Y8IwbM/img-0.jpeg "width":1401,"height":1923,"format":"Jpeg","uri":"https://summitx.info/media/1/UMHtuItGsZD4twbBwNHQlykIJ0Y8IwbM/img-0.jpeg","id":64745582)

I. Rock Class

1. Rock Class
2. Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge
3. Peak "Kirpich", 3800 m, via the "diamond" of the western wall
4. Category 5B difficulty
5. Elevation gain — 710 m, length — 960 m, length of sections with R5–R6 difficulty — 330 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 85°
6. Pitons hammered:
   • rock: 39 (new), 4 (previously hammered)
   • bolt: 15 (new), 8 (previously hammered)
   • chocks: 69 (new), 8 (previously hammered)

Passport

I. Class of rock climbing ascents. 2. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge, Gvandra region. 3. Pik Kirpich, via the "diamond" on the western wall, Manoilov's route, category 5B difficulty. 4. Sixth ascent. 5. Elevation gain: 670 m; route length 1370 m; sections: R6 — 250 m, R5 — 170 m, R4 — 400 m. Elevation gain of the "diamond" wall — 240 m, section lengths:

• R6 — 250 m,
• R5 — 90 m,
• R4 — 20 m.

CIS Championship 2007

High-altitude technical class Classification Commission of the FAR

Report

on the first ascent of the route to peak Kirpich (3800 m) via the left part of the Western wall, category 6A (KTMGV item 2.3), made by the team of the Luhansk Regional Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing Team leader: Pugachev S.A., Master of Sports, instructor 2nd category Coach: Zagirnyak M.V., Master of Sports, instructor 1st category. Luhansk Regional Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing Chairman: Zagirnyak Mikhail Vasilievich Ukraine, 91005, Dalnevostochnaya str., 2D

M5. Djalpakol via the Eastern Ridge

(climbing route, category 2B, first ascent by A. Fridman, 1959) The path to the eastern ridge of Djalpakol is visible from the bivouac - it's a large talus couloir that leads to the first left, lowest, notch in the ridge immediately after its rocky section. Ascent via the couloir:

• yellow-colored talus (loose rocks!) Upon reaching the ridge:
• turn right;
• move along weathered rocks with individual rock walls After about 300 m, ascend to the beginning of the narrow part of the ridge. From here, reach the gendarme and bypass it on the left — R1. Sections R3 and R5 require piton protection! The key sections are:
• the light-colored rise of the ridge,

St. Petersburg Alpine Climbing Championship, Technical Class

2018

Description of the Ascent to Mt. B. Nakhar (3784 m) via the Right Part of the SE Wall (First Ascent)

Proposed category of difficulty: 5A

The route was completed by a team from St. Petersburg

Team captain: Viskov Igor Vladimirovich. Team coach: Timoshenko Tatiana Ivanovna.

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information

1. Climbing category — rock climbing
2. Climbing area — Caucasus, 2.3. From Nakhar Pass to Chipperazau Pass
3. Peak, its height, and climbing route — Nakhara Bolshoy, 3780 m via the center of the northwest wall
4. Estimated difficulty category — 6th cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1130 m, including 1010 m of wall section; average steepness 73°, including 83° for the wall section. Section lengths: I cat. diff. — absent, II cat. diff. — 320 m, III cat. diff. — absent, IV cat. diff. — 15 m, V cat. diff. — 460 m, VI cat. diff. — 605 m.
6. Pitons hammered: for belay and for creating I.T.O. | | Rock Pitons | Bolts | | :--------- | :------- | :--------- | | for belay | 271 | 4 |

1. Climbing category — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — Uzunkol alpine camp.
3. Climbing route with indication of peaks, their heights, route complexity (and other approximate data) — Bolshoy Nakhar peak (3780 m), complexity approximately 6th category of difficulty — via the right part of the northwest wall.
4. Climbing characteristics: — route length — 1310 m. — height difference — 1000 m. — average steepness — 78°. — length of complex sections — 1095 m.
5. Pitons hammered: rock — 185 ice — 20 into the rock

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Uzunkol alpine camp.
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks, their heights, route complexity (and other approximate data) — Bolshoy Nakhar peak (3780 m), complexity approximately 6th category of difficulty — via the right part of the northwest wall.
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • Route length — 1310 m.
   • Height difference — 1000 m.
   • Average steepness — 78°.
   • Length of complex sections — 805 m.
5. Pitons hammered: rock — 195, ice — 20 into rocks, wooden wedges — 23, placement elements — 6.

The summit of Dzhailyk has a 4B category of difficulty, the nature of the route is combined. The summit of Dzhailyk is located on the sixth north-western Adyr spur. To the east of Dzhailyk (in the eastern branch) lies the summit of Cheget-bashi, to the south lies the summit of Kichkidar, and to the west lies the summit of Tyu. The summit of Dzhailyk is surrounded by glaciers: the eastern and western ones, as well as the northern Pnom-Su. Three ridges branch out from the summit of Dzhailyk:

• to the Donkina pass,
• the eastern one - towards the glacier of the summit Dzhailyk Kinchat,
• the western one - turning into a long rocky fence, separating the glaciers of the western Dzhailyk and the northern Pnom-Su. To the north-east, Dzhailyk drops with sheer walls and steep slopes, falling into the ridge between the massifs of Dzhailyk and Tyu-Tyu-S. The route begins with an overnight stay on the Black Rocks in their branch from the western ridge to Dzhailyk, in the form of a short, barely noticeable rocky ridge. From the overnight site, it goes towards the main western ridge. At the beginning, the path goes along broken rocks to the first "gendarmes", which is bypassed on the left along a steep snow-ice slope. Above the "gendarmes" there is a snow shelf, then a simple rocky ridge of broken rocks begins. The length of this section of the ridge is 35-40 m. Having passed this ridge, they reach the second "gendarmes" with sheer walls to the north-west and east. This "gendarmes" is bypassed on the left along a snow-ice couloir. Having passed 35-40 m along the couloir, one should climb up a 5-meter sloping shelf, leading to a gentle slab. From the slab: