1. Group Composition

The ascent was made by the LOS DSO "TRUD" team in the following composition:

1. Manoilov Yu.S. — leader, CMS
2. Antipenko E.S. — participant, CMS
3. Antonovsky I.D. — participant, CMS
4. Vasiliev B.P. — participant, CMS
5. Solonnikov Vikt.A. — participant, MS

This composition was planned according to the application, and during preparation and ascent, it remained unchanged.

V. Kirpich

![img-0.jpeg](https://summitx.info/media/1/UMHtuItGsZD4twbBwNHQlykIJ0Y8IwbM/img-0.jpeg↗ "width":1401,"height":1923,"format":"Jpeg","uri":"https://summitx.info/media/1/UMHtuItGsZD4twbBwNHQlykIJ0Y8IwbM/img-0.jpeg","id":64745582↗) overnight stays.

11. Brief Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics of the Route

The Kirpich peak (3744 m) is one of the main peaks of the Big Kichkinekolsky horseshoe. Two relatively simple routes are laid on Kirpich peak — 1B from Dalar pass and 3B from Myrdy pass. To the southeast, west, and north, Kirpich drops with sheer walls, and until this season, only the southwest wall had been climbed (by Chernoslivin's group). The western (rhombus-shaped) wall of Kirpich peak has a height difference of over 700 m, with the main problem being a 300-meter overhanging slab ("rhombus" in shape). The overall steepness of the wall from the base to the summit is more than 75°. The steepness of the overhanging 300-meter section is more than 95°. A specific feature of the wall is the complete absence of water, and the water flowing from the upper part of the wall onto the lower shelves creates a cloud of water, so that halfway up the wall, climbers have to overcome wet rocks in conditions of continuous drizzle. Moreover, the water mist is so fine that it cannot be collected by any means. There are no bivouac sites on the wall, and the group has to organize hanging overnight stays.

1.P. Brief Description of Climbing Conditions in the Uzunkol Area

Climbing conditions in the Uzunkol area differ from other Caucasus regions due to the increased technical complexity of routes, great steepness, and significant height difference of most interesting walls. Many walls:

• Are completely devoid of water;
• Have increased rockfall danger.

1.U. Preparation for the Ascent

The LOS DSO "Trud" team members have been conducting targeted preparation for technically complex wall ascents over several years. Team members specialize in technically complex ascents. They have climbed such wall routes as:

• Chinchakhi-khokh via Abalakov's route;
• Krumkol via "mirrors";
• Koshtan-tau via the northwest wall;
• Dalar via the northeast wall;
• Dalar via the bastion of the northwest wall, and others.

Team members are part of the LOS DSO "Trud" climbing team, and Manoilov and Vasiliev are members of the Leningrad city climbing team and participants in the USSR Climbing Championship.

This season, the group devoted a lot of time to special rock preparation, practicing rock climbing techniques on particularly complex sections of the rock route. Special training was conducted on:

• organizing hanging overnight stays;
• increasing the group's movement speed over complex terrain;
• overcoming cornices;
• pulling up backpacks.

Over two seasons, the group observed the route. In the 1968 season, preparing for the route, the group climbed several complex ascents:

• Central Dolomite 5A;
• Dalar via the bastion of the northwest wall 5B.

A special reconnaissance was made to observe the wall and finalize the route. The group's task was to climb the route with minimal use of bolt technique.

1.U. Tactical Ascent Plan

Considering the absence of bivouac sites on the wall, even for sitting overnight stays, and the challenging conditions for the group working in the lower part of the wall due to continuous drizzle, the following tactical ascent plan was adopted:

• First day — exit from the camp and reconnaissance of the lower part of the route, reaching the overhanging section.
• The next full day was dedicated to processing the route, returning to the base of the wall for overnight stay.
• After that, the group was to start climbing the wall with two (or at most three) overnight stays.

This tactical plan was largely executed.

1.UI. Route Progression

1st day — July 16, 1968

• Exit from Uzunkol tourist camp at 9:00, approach to overnight stay under Myrdy pass.
• From here, at 12:00, a two-person team went out for reconnaissance and preliminary processing of the lower part of the route.
• After climbing the scree and rocks of the "ram's foreheads" type — 40 m (1 piton, section 1).
• Then ascent up the right sheer wall of the black slab — 40 m (5 pitons, section 2).
• Further, path along the shelf to the right 60 m and then to the left 40 m.
• Had to pass twice under the water flowing from the wall.
• Then 20 m up and 20 m to the left (2 pitons) — rocks of medium difficulty.
• From here, up the gully under the overhanging rock belt — 20 m (2 pitons, section 3).
• Processing took 4 hours.
• On the middle part of section 3 and on section 2, ropes were left.

2nd day — July 17, 1968

• The group started processing at 4:00, considering the possible continuation of the ascent if a convenient overnight stay was found.
• By 7:00, the group overcame the processed section.
• After a sheer rock section (10 m), movement to the left up along the overhanging belt another 40 m (6 pitons, upper part of section 3).
• Here is a small ledge where 3 people can stand.
• Continuous fine drizzle. Rocks are wet.
• Path up through the overhanging section via an internal corner — 10 m.
• Then a slab at 85°: up to the right, bolt work. Very hard rock — quartz crystal outcrops.
• To pass the slab, 8 bolt pitons were hammered (work on a platform), and 4 tested bolts on various rocks were rendered unusable.
• Movement on ladders along the bolts.
• Further, a not very distinct ledge (section 4), along it to the right up 20 m (another 5 pitons).
• Here ropes were hung. At 15:00, the group began descending to overnight stays under the wall.
• Processing took 8 hours.
• 18 ordinary and 8 bolt pitons were hammered.

3rd day — July 18, 1968

• Exit at 3:00.
• Movement along the processed sections.
• On section 4 — pulling up backpacks (it should be noted that until section 9, continuous pulling up of backpacks).
• At the end of the section, a small grotto in the wall where two people can sit.
• Backpacks are received here. The place is protected from rain.
• Further path first to the right up through overhanging rock sections.
• Rocks in the form of vertical walls of 3–4 m, like a ladder with overhanging steps. Very complex climbing.
• Ladders are used. Rocks are wet (20 m).
• Then straight up through a cornice, exit to the base of an internal corner (another 20 m) — section 5.
• 22 pitons were hammered on the section.
• The group's passage of the section took 5–6 hours.
• Section steepness is 95° — when pulling up backpacks on 40 m, the backpack deviates from the wall by more than 3 meters.
• Under the base of the internal corner, the group stopped for overnight stay, having previously processed another 20 m of the overhanging internal corner (11 pitons).
• For organizing the hanging overnight stay, 5 bolt pitons and 5 ordinary pitons were hammered.
• The group worked for 16 hours, hammering 35 pitons.

4th day — July 19, 1968

• Exit at 4:00.
• Path up the overhanging, slightly left-leaning corner.
• 20 m along the processed rope, then another 20 m.
• Here is a small ledge where (resting on legs) 2 people can stand on ladders — this is the next backpack reception point.
• For belaying, 2 bolt pitons were hammered.
• Further — movement up the corner.
• Along the corner — a small crack where pitons can barely fit. Wet black moss.
• Movement is continuously on ladders, but there are not always places for hammering pitons.
• Sometimes — 2–3 m of very tense climbing, many pitons barely hold a person's weight.
• After 35 m — two cornices: the first — 2 m, above it, after 2 m, another 1.5 m.
• Both cornices are passed in the middle along a barely noticeable crack.
• Above — again an internal corner, but there's nowhere to receive backpacks.
• Have to move further another 20 m to a small ledge where one person can stand.
• Backpacks are received here (at 60 m).
• Overnight stay is organized here.
• For organizing overnight stay, 5 ordinary and 3 bolt pitons are hammered.
• On the previous 60 m, 48 pitons were hammered.
• A 10-meter ladder was hung twice.
• The section has a steepness of about 100°, and the additional overall leftward lean makes the descent problematic.
• When moving along the internal corner, the group is protected from rain, but after 14:00, there is no protection from the sun.
• The group stopped for overnight stay at 21:00, working a total of 17 hours.

5th day — July 20, 1968

• Exit at 4:00.
• Straight up — an overhanging internal corner 15 m high, further steepness is about 90°.
• Rocks are dry, and the first person climbs in slippers.
• On 40 m — 12 pitons.
• Another 40 m of complex climbing — 10 pitons.
• Rocks are not very strong, many loose stones (section 7).
• Here, the overall steepness is 90° (determined by the deviation of the backpack from the wall when pulling up).
• Another two ropes vertically, with a small cornice at the end of the second rope (about a meter).
• 15 pitons were hammered (section 8).
• At the end of the section, small ledges appear. Sitting overnight stay is possible.
• Passing sections 7 and 8 took 9 hours.
• Further — section 9.
• The first person climbs without a backpack.
• Other group members move with backpacks.
• Very complex climbing:
  • First, a slab — 20 m.
  • Then, bypassing overhanging stones to the left and exit straight up 15 m under a cornice, which is bypassed to the right of a crack.
  • Ladders are hung (6 pitons).
  • Further traverse to the right along a smooth slab 5 m into an internal corner.
  • Through it, via a small overhanging section (on ladders) — exit to the right onto slabs.
  • Further to the right up (on 50 m, 7 pitons).
  • Further, another 60 m of tense climbing — section 10 (5 pitons).
  • And along rocks of medium difficulty — exit to the summit (section 11).
• On the Kirpich summit — at 17:30.
• At 18:00, began descent towards Dalar pass.
• At 19:30, stopped for overnight stay under the southeast wall of Kirpich peak.
• The group worked on the ascent for 13 hours 30 minutes.

6th day — July 21, 1968

• Exit at 9:00, and at 15:00 — return to Uzunkol tourist camp.
• Total time spent on the ascent was 58.5 hours of walking time, including 12 hours of processing.
• During the ascent, 169 ordinary and 19 bolt pitons were hammered, with:
  • 8 bolt pitons — for passage;
  • 11 bolt pitons — for belaying and organizing overnight stays.

1.UII. Characteristics of the Group Members' Actions

Group leader — Manoilov Yu.S.

Despite the large.

The group worked together on many complex routes, but for the first time, they faced such serious technical difficulties on this ascent. The ascent was a serious test of the participants' technical and physical preparedness, but a long preparation period made it possible for the group to complete the route.

1.UIII. Additional Data on the Route

The route to Kirpich peak "via the rhombus" differs significantly from routes that are even much more complex than the usual 5B category routes, such as Krumkol via "mirrors", Shkhara via the northwest wall, and others. The difference lies in the combination:

• accumulation of technical difficulties (negative overall steepness of the main part of the route, cornices, very hard rock);
• unfavorable conditions for passing the wall:
  • in the lower part — continuous drizzle, wet rocks;
  • absence of water throughout the ascent;
  • absence of sites even for sitting overnight stays.

On a large part of the wall, it is impossible to use platforms for passage; one has to work on ladders combined with very tense climbing. However, a significant advantage of this route is that it used a minimum of bolt pitons (which is partly due to the overall task setting in our group). The group preferred to spend more effort on finding path options and passing individual sections by climbing rather than hammering a large number of bolt pitons.

Group leader: Manoilov Members:

• Antipenko
• Antonovsky
• Vasiliev
• Solonnikov Team coach, MS USSR: Solonnikov Viktor

1.IX. List of Main Equipment of the LOS DSO "TRUD" Team for the Ascent on Kirpich Peak "via the Rhombus"

Table of main characteristics of the "Kirpich via rhombus" route: height difference over 700 m, average steepness 80°, steepness of the most complex section over 90°.

![img-3.jpeg](https://summitx.info/media/1/T5jicXqU77H1HayrbrDNqj9XJBLYDYue/img-3.jpeg↗ "width":2198,"height":1485,"format":"Jpeg","uri":"https://summitx.info/media/1/T5jicXqU77H1HayrbrDNqj9XJBLYDYue/img-3.jpeg","id":64745585↗)