M5. Djalpakol via the Eastern Ridge

(climbing route, category 2B, first ascent by A. Fridman, 1959) The path to the eastern ridge of Djalpakol is visible from the bivouac - it's a large talus couloir that leads to the first left, lowest, notch in the ridge immediately after its rocky section.

Ascent via the couloir:

• yellow-colored talus (loose rocks!)

Upon reaching the ridge:

• turn right;
• move along weathered rocks with individual rock walls

After about 300 m, ascend to the beginning of the narrow part of the ridge. From here, reach the gendarme and bypass it on the left — R1. Sections R3 and R5 require piton protection!

The key sections are:

• the light-colored rise of the ridge,
• passing the "window" and exiting onto the ridge via the wall beyond it, R7.

Bypassing the "window" on the left is dangerous — the rocks are steep and heavily weathered. Ascend along the ridge to the forepeak — Rerikh Peak. From it, descend to the col via easy rocks (loose rocks!) and move along the weathered ridge, bypassing individual rises via ledges on the left and right as needed, to reach the summit of Djalpakol.

From the bivouac — 5–6 hours.

Descent from the summit is along the ridge leading to Belyaev Pass. Initially, move along its heavily weathered part (loose rocks!), then along its right side. At the beginning of summer, the ridge is snow-covered — descend along the ridge line to the pass. From the pass, return to the bivouac site via talus and snowy slopes. From the summit — 3 hours.

• departure time from the bivouac — not later than 5:00 AM.