Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — combined.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range, east of Chiper pass, from the side of Chiper-Azau glacier.
3. Peak 3858, via West Ridge, first ascent.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3A.
5. Height difference of the route 500 m (from Chiper pass).
6. Number of pitons used 5/0, including 2 ice pitons.
7. Number of climbing hours — 9.
8. No overnight stays on the route. Bivouac at "Sandy Hotel" 2700 m.

121. Volnaya Ispaniya via West Ridge (Category III route) From the "Dzhantugan" alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) ascend along the Adylsu gorge road. After 300 m, turn right off the road and descend to cross the Adylsu river on a temporary bridge, above the confluence of the stream from the Kashkatau glacier. From the bridge, the trail goes through a flat forest, then steeply ascends and exits onto the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatau glacier. Further ascent along the trail on the moraine ridge leads to platforms at its end. From here, it's possible to ascend 150-200 m up-left to platforms near the "Rusty" cliffs. The initial bivouac is on the platforms. From the "Dzhantugan" alpine camp, 3-4 hours.

125. Volnaya Ispaniya via the East ridge (V. Abalakov's route, cat. 4A). The path from the "Jantugan" alp camp (group of 4-8 people) to the sites near the "Ryzhie" rocks at the end of the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatash glacier is described in route 121. From the sites, proceed along the moraine and talus along the glacier, then descend onto it and ascend along its left side (closed crevasses!). Bypass the icefall from the left under the slopes of Ullukara peak (stonefall and icefall are possible from Ullukara!). Having passed the icefall, ascend, keeping to the left side of the glacier, along its upper plateau to the saddle of the ridge connecting Ullukara peak on the left and Volnaya Ispaniya peak on the right — Kashkatash pass. From the plateau, ascend along a gently sloping snow-ice slope, keeping to the slopes of Volnaya Ispaniya peak, to Kashkatash pass. From the pass, turn right and ascend 100-120 m along a steep snow-ice slope (cornice, piton belay!) onto the East ridge of Volnaya Ispaniya peak. Further, move along the snowy (cornices!), then along a simple, strongly destroyed rocky ridge. Two small gendarmes are to be overcome head-on:

• the 1st gendarme can be bypassed on the right,
• the second — on the left ("live" stones, belay!),
• descend into a small saddle after the gendarmes. From the saddle:
• along the snowy ridge (cornices!),
• then along a 70-80-meter ice-snow slope (piton belay!),

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus
2. Peak Volnaya Ispaniya via North-Eastern Edge
3. 5B
4. Combined
5. Height difference: 600 m (3600–4200) Route length: 825 m. Length of sections with V category of difficulty – 170 m, VI category of difficulty – 15 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 70°
6. Hooks left on the route: 0 Hooks used on the route: 12. Artificial holds used: 13

CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE CENTRAL AND NORTH-WESTERN FEDERAL DISTRICTS

class - high-altitude technical

REPORT

On the ascent to the summit Volnaya Ispaniya (4163 m) via the North-Eastern edge (Subortovich route) 5B cat. sl. by the team "Center" August 7, 2024

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

пик Вуллея, 3960 м, via 3rd ridge, cat. diff. 1B, route by L. Nadezhdin, 35 The path from the Shkhelda AU SB (Alplager) follows the trail leading to the Shkhelda glacier and further along the left edge of the glacier to the Ak-Su glacier. At the confluence with the Shkhelda glacier, turn left from the glacier edge to the middle of the Shkhelda glacier and ascend it to the slopes of Peak Vulley. Approaching the slopes, turn to the right bank of the glacier, where a rocky outcrop is located near the turn of the Shkhelda glacier opposite Peak Durovsky and the ascent to the Ushba plateau, offering a good camping spot (Shkhelda bivouac). There is water available at the bivouac site. It is possible to set up a bivouac for 8-10 tents. The travel time is 6 hours from the Shkhelda AU SB. From the bivouac, the path goes along the scree slopes located to the left of the bivouac. Movement should be done with great caution (especially in a large group) as rockfall is possible from the slopes of Peak Vulley. After the scree, a steep snow slope (35-40°) begins, leading to the saddle between the subpeak and the main peak. The ascent is hazardous due to the steepness of the slopes and requires great caution, especially during mass ascents; when moving along the snow slope, it is necessary to stay on the left side (in the direction of travel) as the right side has a steep slope with snow cornices. Further ascent follows the western ridge to the summit (about 1 hour 40 minutes). Movement along the snowy ridge is not difficult, but caution is still necessary. The ridge features rocky sections and minor obstacles (about 20-25 meters). The ascent from the bivouac to the summit takes around 7 hours. Descent takes 3-4 hours.

I. Climbing category - technical 2. North spur of the Main Caucasian Range. 3. Peak Germogenova via the left part of the N wall 4. Proposed category: 3A 5. Route description: snow-ice, height difference (from the saddle) - 423 m, average steepness of the wall section - 46° 6. Number of protection points - 36 (ice screws) 7. Total climbing time - 6 hours 8. Team leader: Laptev Alexander Leonidovich, Candidate Master of Sports Team members:

• Ivanov G.A., Candidate Master of Sports

II AS II ORT

I. Ice and snow class. 2. Central Caucasus. 3. Pik Germogenova, 3993 m, via N wall 4. Proposed 4A cat. dif. 5. Height difference — 513 m. Length of sections with 5 cat. dif. — 155 m Average steepness of the wall section — 51°. 6. Ice screws used for belay — 76. 7. Trekking hours — 6. 8. No overnight stays.

275. Ascent via the Northwest Ridge (rock route, category 1B difficulty, fig. 32, 39). From the Gulskie ploshchadki (point 249) on the right side of the Gul glacier, having passed the peak Gulba, turn right and ascend a snowy slope, then traverse easy, crumbling rocks in a couloir to reach the saddle of the Northwest Ridge of Gulba peak. At the saddle, turn right and follow the Northwest Ridge to arrive beneath the first gendarme. Overcome it directly via simple rocks ("live" rocks, belay). Continue on simple, crumbling rocks of the Northwest Ridge; tackle the second and third gendarmes directly (belay). Beyond them, follow the gentle, easy, crumbling rocks of the Northwest Ridge, with some ups and downs in the middle section, to reach the summit of Gulba. 6–8 hours from the initial bivouac.

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Elbrus Eastern 5621 m.

from the east through the Achkeryakolsky lava flow Presumably 2A category of complexity Leader: Gavrilov Ilya Vladimirovich 2010 Addresses: 357500, Stavropol Territory, Pyatigorsk, Ogorodnaya st., 37-3, apt. 26 Gavrilov Ilya Vladimirovich, tel. +7-928-829-10-41, djilisutours@rambler.ru 357600, Stavropol Territory, Essentuki, Ordzhonikidze st., 84-3, apt. 43 Mashin Roman Ivanovich, tel. +7-928-285-57-46, romashin79@mail.ru 357700, Stavropol Territory, Kislovodsk, Olkhovskaya st., 14, apt. 1 Ovcharenko Danila Sergeevich, tel. +7-928-008-03-01, ovcharenko911@mail.ru