
- Ascent via the Northwest Ridge (rock route, category 1B difficulty, fig. 32, 39). From the Gulskie ploshchadki (point 249) on the right side of the Gul glacier, having passed the peak Gulba, turn right and ascend a snowy slope, then traverse easy, crumbling rocks in a couloir to reach the saddle of the Northwest Ridge of Gulba peak. At the saddle, turn right and follow the Northwest Ridge to arrive beneath the first gendarme. Overcome it directly via simple rocks ("live" rocks, belay). Continue on simple, crumbling rocks of the Northwest Ridge; tackle the second and third gendarmes directly (belay). Beyond them, follow the gentle, easy, crumbling rocks of the Northwest Ridge, with some ups and downs in the middle section, to reach the summit of Gulba. 6–8 hours from the initial bivouac.