II AS II ORT

I. Ice and snow class.

2. Central Caucasus.
3. Pik Germogenova, 3993 m, via N wall
4. Proposed 4A cat. dif.
5. Height difference — 513 m. Length of sections with 5 cat. dif. — 155 m

Average steepness of the wall section — 51°.

6. Ice screws used for belay — 76.
7. Trekking hours — 6.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Leader: Khariniak I.V., Master of Sports

Participants: Achasov O.V., Master of Sports; Chyorap A.G., Candidate for Master of Sports; Pundaiuviene-Shimanite V.P., Candidate for Master of Sports IO. Coach: Stavnitser A.M. II. Ascent made on July 25, 1986. I2. AUSB “Shkhelda”.

2. “Sazer”

4. Changed with open vision

5. Destroyed — incomplete sehon

7. Gorebeks, purpure ruonon»

   3.

Pik GERMOGENOVA, 3993 m, via NW ridge, cat. 3A dif. A. Starostin, 51

Bivouac near “Ryzhie skaly” (Red Rocks). From there, you need to reach the glacier descending from Pik Germogenova to the north, and, sticking to its right (orographic) side, approach the rocks of the northwest ridge and follow a well-noticeable inner corner to the edge, along which you need to move to the base of the rocky tower of Pik Germogenova.

Reaching the rocks of the summit tower:

• from the right, on snow, 2–3 ropes on crampons;
• belay through an ice axe or ice screws, depending on the condition of the slope.

Further:

• along rocks of medium difficulty with an inner corner (difficult spot), which is climbed via the inner corner or to the right along the wall (screw belay);
• holding on with a “finger”, along rocks of medium difficulty, we reach the pre-summit ridge, before which a small section of steep snow or ice is climbed.

Completion:

• moving slightly below the ridge, along a ledge, we reach the summit tower; the exit does not present difficulties;
• there is a cairn at the top.

Descent via the ascent route.

Pik Negostnova to NE. trevo 3–4 %.