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Description of the ascent route along the eastern wall of the 4300 peak of the Alai Range with a difficulty level of 5B.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: rock
  2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Alai ridge
  3. Peak, its height and ascent route: p. 4300, via the center of the eastern wall via the route of V. Grishchenko (2nd place at the XXXI USSR Alpine Championship, rock class) with exit to p. 4450 m
  4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m average steepness: wall — 80°, overall — 65° length of sections: 2nd difficulty — 120 m, 3rd difficulty — 800 m, 4th difficulty — 80 m, 5th difficulty — 425 m, 6th difficulty — 130 m.
  6. Pitons driven: for belaying:
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Passport of the ascent to Pik XXII Olimpiady via the center of the East Face, characteristics of the route, technical difficulty, and details of the ascent by a team of instructors from the Shkhelda alpine camp in 1980.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category — rock climbing
  2. Ascent area — Archа-Kanysh gorge (Pamir-Alay)
  3. Ascent route — Peak XXII Olympiad (4550 m) via the center of the Eastern wall
  4. Ascent characteristics: total altitude difference — 900 m, wall section difference — 450 m, average wall steepness — 85°, wall length — 510 m
  5. Pitons driven: rock — 130 pcs. (including for TAE — 11 pcs.), bolt — 15 pcs. (including for TAE — 9 pcs.), chocks — 107 pcs. (including for TAE — 15 pcs.)
  6. Time to reach the summit — 36.5 hours
  7. Time on the wall — 27 hours
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Ascent via the center of the Eastern wall of peak LII / XXII Olympic Games (4560 m, Tsamvr Apai ridge) Cat. 6B.

ASCENT DOCUMENT 235

  1. Ascent category: technical
  2. Ascent area: Pamir Alai mountain range
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: LPI / XXII Olympic Games / 4560 m via the Centre of the Eastern wall.
  4. Proposed category of complexity: 6B (2nd)
  5. Route characteristics: Route length — 1290 m Length of category 5 sections — 40 m Length of category 6 sections — 470 m
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Report on the ascent to the summit of Dvuzubka via "Sтолб" (The Column) and the western wall, made in 1969 by a group of climbers.

Climbing Report on v. Dvuzubka (4430 m)

via the "Pillar" and the western wall Team:

  • Yu. A. Logachev CMS
  • O. I. Shumilov CMS
  • V. N. Bocharov MS
  • A. A. Potekhin CMS
  • G. G. Andreev CMS
  • Yu. S. Emelyanenko CMS
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Description of the 2Б route to the Maly Zamok peak in the Pamir-Alay, traversing the South face and the East ridge with details of the approach and ascent.

2B on Maly Zamok, Dugoba, Pamir-Alai. Description

The route to the summit Maly Zamok, 3rd ascent, is categorized as 2B, via the South wall and East ridge, Pamir-Alai, Dugoba. 1st ascent - Bobrov Alexey (Yekaterinburg) +1, May 2012. The approach from the Dugoba alpine camp is similar to the 2A route on M. Zamok via the SE slope and E ridge (classifier section 5.1.1. #31). After the "crossroads of three couloirs," we follow the trail towards the 2A route for 300 m. After 300 m, the trail to 2A turns right onto the ridge, and we go left (a cairn is laid) under the wall. The landmark is a dry tree on the ridge slightly to the right of the start of the route and a large stone plug - directly on the route line. We move left along the scree slope, bypass the rock outcrops, and enter the right onto a ledge under the start of the route. The approach takes 2-3 hours, overall 20-30 minutes less than to the start of 2A. The landmark is a large green arch, from which the route begins (a station on the arch), along the inner corner.

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Ascent to the summit Krylya Sovetov (4900 m) via the North-Eastern edge, category of difficulty 4B, height difference 800 m, duration of the route is 17 hours.

  1. Class of technically challenging ascents.
  2. Pamir-Alay. Alay Ridge. Archa-Kanysh Gorge.
  3. Krylya-Sovetov Peak (4900 m), via the north-eastern edge.
  4. Estimated difficulty category – 4B.
  5. Route characteristics: a) elevation gain – 800 m; b) length of sections with 4B-5B category difficulty: 280 m; c) average steepness:
    • ascent to the ridge 60°;
    • pre-summit tower 55°.
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### Climbing route description to Mashlyan peak via SE wall - Category of difficulty - Length 1370 m - Height difference 1020 m - Average slope 85°

ASCENT PASS

  1. Class: rock
  2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alai, Alai Ridge
  3. Ascent route: Mashalyan peak via South face
  4. Difficulty category: 5B (2nd)
  5. Route characteristics:
    • elevation gain: 1020 m
    • length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 910 m
    • average steepness: 65°
  6. Pitons used:
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Ascent record of Shait Peak (4916 m) via North-East Face, category 5B difficulty grade, climbed by a team led by Gennadiy Shumikhin in 1979.

Ascent Log

  1. Ascent classification: technical
  2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge
  3. Peak, its height, route: p. Shait, 4916 m, ascent via the NE wall: via Moiseevtsev's path (officially recognized)
  4. Expected difficulty category: 5B
  5. Route characteristics: height difference 900 m, average steepness 65°; section lengths: 4th diff. cat. — 535 m, 5th diff. cat. — 560 m, 6th diff. cat. — 65 m.
  6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock — 47, ice — 8, protection — 33;
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Ascent record of **Zidarbek Peak (5127 m)** via the **N-E wall** route (Category 5B difficulty) in the southern spurs of the **Alay Range**.

Ascent Passport

Appendix I I. Ascent class — technical II. Ascent area — Southern spurs of Alay mountain range III. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Aydarbek 5127 m via N-E wall, route "SHAGINYAN" by A. DMITRIEV, 78 IV. Proposed difficulty category — 5B V. Route characteristics:

  • Height difference — 1100 m
  • Average steepness — 60°
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Description of the climbing route to the summit, completed by the team in February 1994, with a detailed description of the tactics and actions on individual sections.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent type: winter
  2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range, Adyr-Su gorge
  3. Peak, route: Ullu-Tau /Main/ via NNW wall / V. Li route /
  4. Difficulty category: 5B
  5. Height difference:
    • wall section: 810 m
    • total route length: 1583 m
    • wall section length: 983 m
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