Report

on the ascent to the summit of Dolomit Severny via the right part of the western wall, category 4A by the team led by Popov V.I.

I. Climbing Passport

	1. General Information
	Full Name, sports rank of the leader	Morozov A.E., CMS
	Full Name, sports rank of the participants	Baib G.A., Shironin D.S., 2nd sports rank
	Full Name of the coach	Popov V.I.
	2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object

M86. Dolomit Tsentralny via West Face

(rock route, category 4B, first ascent by Yu. Melnik, 1965) From the lake, head up and to the right along the scree towards the couloir between the North (left) and Central (right) Dolomites. The couloir ends at the bottom with a block of steep cliffs resembling "ram's foreheads". Ascend to a small rocky ridge via its lower right part, 150 m from the couloir. The ridge divides in half two short, gentle couloirs resembling internal corners to the right of the main couloir. From here, the starting point of the route is visible - a huge internal corner - the "Book". The ascent to the ledge R0 below the "Book" follows the terrain without visible landmarks and lacks a defined line. It takes 3.5 hours from the bivouac. From the R0 ledge, ascend via the crack with the overhanging left "page of the book". Then, move up and to the right along a sloping ledge, cross to the other "page of the book", and exit it via the internal corner onto a ledge to the control cairn R2 (strenuous climbing). From the cairn, traverse 4 m to the left along the slab, then ascend to a small ledge. From here, via the R3 crack between two slabs, exit under the overhang of the left slab into an internal corner (strenuous climbing; when there's verglas on the slabs, the middle 10 m of the slab are traversed using ladders). Ascend 8 m up the corner and then move right onto a grey slab - an internal corner leading to a narrow ledge R5. It takes 3.5 hours from the "Book". From the slab's edge, move left and ascend up and to the right, bypassing monolithic overhangs along a 10-meter narrow ledge. At its end, ascend straight up along smooth rocks (beware of loose rocks! blind cracks). Reach the next ledge R7. It's also possible to ascend directly from R6 via a hanging crack, but if it's icy, it's better to go to the right.

The summit of Kara-Baschi — 3600 m

1. Ascent via the eastern edge — category III complexity (Description of the route as you move to the summit) From the "Uzungkol" camp, along the right bank of the Mordy River to the beginning of the right moraine of the Mordy glacier. Along it, and then along the grassy slopes (trail) to a large green terrace — a bivouac site — "Mordy overnight stay". From the camp — 3–3.5 hours. From the bivouac, up to the right to the talus couloir and up it to the upper rock outcrops. Then (in bundles!) along the steep snowslope (belay!) to the left and up to the talus plateau. (At the beginning of summer — snowy). From the plateau, traverse a steep snowslope (belay!) to the slopes and further to the foot of the eastern edge of the summit. Bypassing the edge on the left and along the ledge to the right and up — exit to the edge ridge and along it 300 m to a ledge turning into an overhanging wall 5 m high (belay, hook!). Along the wall, exit to an inclined ledge ending in an overhanging wall 8 m high. Along the wall straight up to the ridge (belay!) and along it 40 m to the wall. Along the wall 17 m to the right and up along the slabs (hooks!) and further along the edge to the ridge. From the ridge, descend into a dip — 20 m — rappel and then ascend 15 m to a site in front of a negative 4-meter wall — and through it exit to the ridge (method of overcoming — "live" ladder — belay!). Along the ridge 40 m to a lowering in the ridge, then ascend along a steep snowslope (belay!) and along the rocks covered in ice — exit to the summit. Descent:

Kirpich, Manoylov's Route, 6A

Ascent Passport

1. Technical class
2. Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge
3. Kirpich peak (3800 m), via the "diamond" of the West wall, Manoylov's route.
4. 6A cat. difficulty.
5. Height difference 700 m, length 1060 m, length of climbing sections V (4c–5a) (1) cat. difficulty – 160 m, length of climbing sections VI (5b–6a) cat. difficulty – 95 m, length of climbing sections VII+ (6c) cat. difficulty – 32 m, A0 – 3 m. Average slope of the route – 50°, slope of the wall section – 80°.
6. Pitons driven: rock: wired/stoppers: bolted: 0/15* 30/0 0/25* * — previously driven
7. Team's working hours 17 h, 2 days, ascent, descent on the day of reaching the summit.

3. Ascent to the peak of Kichkinekol from Chugur Pass 2A cat. diff. 3610 The path to Kichkinekol Pass see the description of the ascent to Kichkinekol from Kichkinekol Pass. From Kichkinekol Pass:

• Descend down and under the slopes of the peak Kich-Kinekol by traversing snowy slopes in the direction of Chugur Pass.
• In case of difficult snow cover on these slopes from Kichkinekol Pass, descend directly to the Zamok glacier plateau and approach the slopes of Chugur Pass along the plateau. Ascent to the ridge slightly to the left of the pass point — between the right big gendarme and two rocky “sails”. Without going to the ridge between them, move left along a wide grassy shelf bypassing the next gendarme. From it, descend 10 m and bypass the second gendarme along the shelf, after which exit to the ridge. The entire bypass is about 150 m. Belay! From the ridge, directly through the rocky ascent of the ridge and along the ridge with small gendarmes to a smooth gendarme 10–12 m high with shelves. Pass either directly head-on (belay! pitons!), or bypass from the left (if there is no snow and flow ice on the shelves!). After the gendarme, approach the summit tower along the ridge, which is passed along a rocky groove — 30 m. Belay! And exit to the summit.

Report

on the passage of Krugozor-Myrdy, 2A cat. sl. of the Popov V.I. team

	1. General Information

2. Ascent to the north-west peak from the Morды valley — cat. diff. 2A

From the "Udzunkol" camp along the right bank of the Morды river to the old koshi, cross to the left bank and along the trail to the large moraine of the Dalar glacier. Along the moraine to its middle part, where it flattens. From here to the left-down and further up the slopes to the talus terrace under the NW edge of Trapezia. The bivouac site. From the camp 3.5-4 hours. From the bivouac:

• up steep talus upwards in the direction of the huge chute-couloir;
• to the right of it — along slabs and rocks to the place of its narrowing;
• crossing on snow (belay!) to the left side of the couloir;
• further up along the stepped rocks and shelves from island to island — ascent to a heavily destroyed rocky ridge;
• along it — to the "central" rocky island (belay!). From the island to the rocks straight-up (belay!) to a large smoothed rocky block on the slope under the peak. Exit to it along narrow shelves and short walls (belay! Pitons!), and further along the destroyed rocks to the ridge under the gendarme.

Report

on traversing 1st, 2nd Western — Eastern peaks of Trezubets 2B category of the team led by Popov V.I.

I. Climbing Passport

	1. General Information
	Full Name, sports rank of the leader	Samofeeva, CMS.
	Full Name, sports rank of participants	Bondarenko A.Yu., Plotnikov I.I., Simonov P.A., Strizhko A.S., no rank.
	Full Name of coach	Popov V.I.
	2. Characteristics of the climbing object

2. Ascent to the summit of Filtr via the northwestern edge Cat. 3B See the path to the bivouac in the description of the Cat. 2B route From the bivouac:

• along the stream on the right-upwards, under the rocks of the NW edge of Filtr peak;
• traverse the snowfield to the right-upwards and then along the slabs and "ram's foreheads" to the gorge (in rope teams!);
• from the gorge, exit to the snowy slope (35–40°) and along it to the rocky outcrop and beyond it along the snowy exit to the ridge. From here:
• left-upwards 330–350 m to the snowy couloir;
• bypass the couloir to the right-upwards via the rocks to a large slab (protection! Hook!);

Chungur-Dvar Peak

Ascent from the col from Chungur-Bashi along the eastern ridge, category 2A difficulty. From the col from Chungur-Bashi peak, move left onto the ridge and ascend the rocks to a large ledge. Traverse the ledge for 20 m (belay!) and then ascend left and upwards for 10 m; follow the wall with an inner corner (pitons!) to the next ledge. From here, use a 15-meter inner corner (belay! piton!) to reach the shoulder of the ridge's rocky ascent. Along the ridge to a 5-meter slab and traverse right (belay!) to ascend to the main ridge. Follow the ridge to where it becomes less steep and then along a narrow crest to reach the summit. From the col to the summit takes 2.5–3 hours. Descent from the summit follows the category 1B route to Chungur Pass. The further descent route coincides with the ascent route.

Recommendations for Climbers:

I. Number of participants in the group - 2 training units II. Initial bivouac: upper Kichkinekolye, without overnight stay. When ascending Chungur-Bashi, bivouac at Kichkinokol Pass. III. Departure time from bivouac - not later than 4–5 am.