The summit of Kara-Baschi — 3600 m

1. Ascent via the eastern edge — category III complexity

(Description of the route as you move to the summit) From the "Uzungkol" camp, along the right bank of the Mordy River to the beginning of the right moraine of the Mordy glacier. Along it, and then along the grassy slopes (trail) to a large green terrace — a bivouac site — "Mordy overnight stay". From the camp — 3–3.5 hours.

From the bivouac, up to the right to the talus couloir and up it to the upper rock outcrops. Then (in bundles!) along the steep snowslope (belay!) to the left and up to the talus plateau. (At the beginning of summer — snowy). From the plateau, traverse a steep snowslope (belay!) to the slopes and further to the foot of the eastern edge of the summit. Bypassing the edge on the left and along the ledge to the right and up — exit to the edge ridge and along it 300 m to a ledge turning into an overhanging wall 5 m high (belay, hook!). Along the wall, exit to an inclined ledge ending in an overhanging wall 8 m high. Along the wall straight up to the ridge (belay!) and along it 40 m to the wall. Along the wall 17 m to the right and up along the slabs (hooks!) and further along the edge to the ridge. From the ridge, descend into a dip — 20 m — rappel and then ascend 15 m to a site in front of a negative 4-meter wall — and through it exit to the ridge (method of overcoming — "live" ladder — belay!). Along the ridge 40 m to a lowering in the ridge, then ascend along a steep snowslope (belay!) and along the rocks covered in ice — exit to the summit.

Descent:

From the summit to the right and down along the rocky ridge to a saddle to the Pyramid summit. From the saddle to the left and down, bypassing the Kara-Baschi massif, and ascend to the saddle between the Kara-Baschi and Malaia Gvandara summits. From the saddle straight down along a wide snow-talus couloir and then to the right to the moraine ridge, through which descend into the couloir and then along the ascent route — down to the bivouac. The descent from the summit to the bivouac takes 3 hours.

Ascent time: from bivouac — 7–8 hours. Descent time: from summit to bivouac — 3 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants in the group — no more than 6 people
2. Initial bivouac — "Mordy overnight stay"
3. Departure time from bivouac — no later than 5:00 am
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) rope — 2 × 40 m; b) expendable cordelette — 3 m; c) rock pitons — 4–5 pcs; d) rock hammer — 2 pcs; e) carabiners — 6–7 pcs.
5. Possible overnight stays — on the saddle to Pyramid.