- Ascent to the peak of Kichkinekol from Chugur Pass 2A cat. diff. 3610
The path to Kichkinekol Pass see the description of the ascent to Kichkinekol from Kichkinekol Pass.
From Kichkinekol Pass:
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Descend down and under the slopes of the peak Kich-Kinekol by traversing snowy slopes in the direction of Chugur Pass.
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In case of difficult snow cover on these slopes from Kichkinekol Pass, descend directly to the Zamok glacier plateau and approach the slopes of Chugur Pass along the plateau.
Ascent to the ridge slightly to the left of the pass point — between the right big gendarme and two rocky “sails”. Without going to the ridge between them, move left along a wide grassy shelf bypassing the next gendarme. From it, descend 10 m and bypass the second gendarme along the shelf, after which exit to the ridge.
The entire bypass is about 150 m. Belay!
From the ridge, directly through the rocky ascent of the ridge and along the ridge with small gendarmes to a smooth gendarme 10–12 m high with shelves. Pass either directly head-on (belay! pitons!), or bypass from the left (if there is no snow and flow ice on the shelves!).
After the gendarme, approach the summit tower along the ridge, which is passed along a rocky groove — 30 m. Belay! And exit to the summit.
From the bivouac at the upper Kichkinokol camps to Chugur Pass — 2.5–3 hours.
From Chugur Pass to the summit — 3 hours.
Descend from the summit along the 2A route to Kichkinekol Pass.
Recommendations for climbers
- Number of participants in the group — 2 training units.
- Initial bivouac — upper Kichkinokol camps.
- Departure time from bivouac — not later than 5:00 am.
- Special equipment for a group of 4 people:
- a) main rope — 2 × 30 m.
- b) expendable rope — 2 m.
- c) rock pitons — 4 pcs.
- d) carabiners — 6 pcs.
- e) rock hammers — 2 pcs.
- f) ice screws — 2–3 pcs. in the second half of summer
- g) crampons — 1–2 pairs for descending from Kichkinokol
