Peak Baruun From the North Suvorkina L.D. East Sayan, 6.1

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: technical
2. Region: East Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy, Baruun-Khandagai gorge.
3. Summit: 2874 m. Peak Baruun from the North.
4. Proposed category: 1B category.
5. Route type: rock.

TOWER (2800 m) via the South Ridge Route: 1B category of difficulty All-year-round

Geographical Location

The Tower peak is located in one of the southern spurs of the main ridge of the Tunka Belki range in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, situated on the eastern side of the Zun-Khandagai River valley and closing off to the north with the SOAN peak (see diagram).

Access to the Base Camp

From Irkutsk, take a bus or drive to the Arshan resort - 218 km. From Arshan resort to the Zun-Khandagai River valley, west along the main ridge via the Tagarhoy village by car or on foot - 12 km. Then, on foot, up the trail on the right side of the Zun-Khandagai River valley to the fork of the left and right Zun-Khandagai rivers - 9 km. The base camp is located at the fork. The forest boundary is here. Plenty of firewood.

Brief geographic overview of the area, sporting characteristics

The Dомашняя peak is located in the south-eastern spur of the Tunkinsky ridge of the Eastern Sayan, which is a watershed between the Zuun-Khandagai and Baruun-Khandagai gorges. Its height is 2352 m above sea level. In the same spur, there are two unnamed peaks, 2693 m and 2678 m, and the Dinosaur peak, 2820 m, for which there are classified routes 2B and 4A cat. sl. The Tunkinsky Goltsy are the highest part of the Eastern Sayan. The highest point is 3226 m, located in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Khairym stream. The approach to the base camp starts from the Lesnichikha clearing, located 10 km from the Arshan resort, through the Zuun-Khandagai river gorge. The base camp is located:

• on the left orographic bank of the Zuun-Khandagai river
• 6 hours walk from the clearing
• opposite the Dомашняя peak
• at the forest boundary The forest boundary here is at an altitude of 1700 m above sea level.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Region: Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy, section 6.1.2
2. Peak Druzhba 2500 m via Western ridge through Lyubov
3. Category 2A (variant of Prokopieva 2A)
4. Route type: rock. Height difference: 1600 m; average steepness: 20°; total route length: 4780 m;
5. Total pitons used: 4 left behind: 0;

ROUTE DESCRIPTION to the summit of Borus via the N ridge, cat. 1B difficulty (Western Sayan, Borus Ridge) VIEW OF BORUS SUMMIT FROM THE BASE CAMP ASCENT TO OBSERVATION POINT CHARACTER OF THE ROCK ON THE R1 SECTION

The wall with cornices, the key section R2–R3, view from above The section R3–R4, view from above □ □ The summit of Кошурникова at 16:10, October 17, 2013

Passport

1. Rock climb category
2. Eastern Sayan
3. Pik Yuri Nikulin, 1921 m, via the northern ridge
4. Proposed 1B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain 410 m (by altimeter), length 950 m, average slope about 30°
6. Protection via rock features
7. 4 hours of moving time
8. No overnight stays
9. Leader: Zakharov Nikolay, Master of Sports of International Class

Fig. 13 After this section, there are three small gendarmes that can be bypassed on the left via rocks. Protection through rock outcrops. If there is snow, the gendarmes are traversed via ledges. Piton protection. From the last gendarme, descend while keeping to the left side. Further, there is a snowy saddle with cornices on the left. Be cautious! From the saddle to the summit of Kishkinema, there are two snowy ascents, each about fifteen meters. Beyond them lies the exit to the summit rocks. Move rightward along the ledges to the slab. Piton protection. From the saddle to the summit takes 1 hour of walking. Here is the 2nd cairn. From the summit, descend with alternating protection, keeping to the left side, onto the snowy saddle between the summit of Kiskineta and the ridge extending south to the summit of Frunze. Here, to the right on the rocks, at the beginning of the ascent up the steep snowy slope, is the 3rd cairn. The ascent to the summit of Suleiman Stalsky follows a slope of about 90–100 meters. In the lower part, the slope is snowy with up to 50° steepness, in the middle part, it's icy. Steps need to be cut. Piton protection. In the uppermost part, the slope is snowy, and towards the end of the season, there may be icy conditions, with steepness reaching up to 60°. From here, move rightward along the sharp ridge. About fifteen meters before the ridge, there is a rocky outcrop. Descend 3–4 meters to it, and then move east with a slight gain in elevation onto the snowy ridge leading to the summit of Suleiman Stalsky.

Ascent from the Tagiltsev Pass, route 1Б cat. diff. (Fig. 17). The Koptau peak is located in the New spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge between the Tagiltsev and TEU passes. The path to the Koptau peak from the Talgar alpine camp goes along the trail up the gorge to the Green Glade, then you need to:

• cross two streams flowing from the Shokalsky Glacier;
• approach the lake at the tongue of the North TEU Glacier. Here is the overnight stay. From the bivouac site to the Tagiltsev Pass. The exit to the pass is via a couloir with small and medium scree. There are snow patches. Steepness is 30–35°. At the bottom, the couloir is wide, with a rocky ridge in the middle. In the middle part, the couloir is divided into three narrow couloirs. It's better to go along the left one, which is wider and less prone to falling rocks. After 40–50 m, the pass point is reached. From the Tagiltsev Pass, follow the snowy ridge to the south to a large inclined gendarme. The ascent to the gendarme is in its middle part. Move with caution: the rocks are destroyed. Turn right and exit to an inclined platform. Descend from the gendarme to the left, initially along the second inner corner for about five meters. Then proceed to the second destroyed gendarme, which is bypassed on the left. The further route follows the snowy ridge. There are cornices on the left, and a slope turning into an ice wall on the right. The ridge has three height drops. After an hour of movement, the summit is reached. Descent is via the ascent route. The entire ascent from the initial bivouac takes 7–8 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. The number of participants is not limited.

Northern ex­co­nus