Passport

1. Rock class
2. Tian-Shan, Ayuter gorge
3. Peak Mendeleevets along the left edge of the Northern wall of the triangle
4. 5B category of difficulty
5. Height difference: 840 m, length with the summit ridge - 1300 m, length of sections 5–6 category of difficulty - 380 m. Average steepness of main sections 75° (3400–3950), of which 5 category of difficulty 82° (3600–3950).
6. Pitons hammered:
   • rock: 102
   • bolt: 20
   • chocks: –

Route Description

for ascending Peak Tamma via the Southwest Ridge, Terskey Range, route category 2B, under the guidance of Salazko M.N., August 23, 1976. After leaving the Ala-Too alpine camp, cross the Oyuntyor River and follow the trail on its orographic left side upstream for 1.5 hours. Then, cross to the other bank via a large scree slope that blocks the river, and continue upstream along the trail for 20 minutes until you reach a visible stream flowing down the slope, which occasionally forms a waterfall. Leaving the waterfall on the left, ascend along the boundary between the grass and scree (there is a cairn along the way). After 1 hour of ascent, move along the grassy ledges into the couloir between two ridges that later form the Southwest Ridge of Peak Tamma. When ascending the couloir, be cautious on the rocky outcrops (smooth slabs with loose rocks). After 1.5 hours of movement from the river, approach a clearly visible 40-meter internal angle (1st control cairn). R1: traverse the internal angle with occasional protection, then use rock projections for protection to climb a 5-meter wall with a deep cleft (2nd control cairn). R2: continue along the ridge simultaneously, occasionally using variable protection through rock projections and piton protection. The ridge is sharp with characteristic feather-like gendarmes, deep fractures, and slabs. Movement along the ridge takes 2.5–3 hours. R3: the ridge then transitions into a rocky slope. Moving simultaneously along this slope, reach the pre-summit ridge and the summit in 30–40 minutes. Be cautious on the rocky slope due to numerous loose rocks. Descend from the summit along the rocky slope, leaving the ridge on the left. The descent leads into the cirque formed by two ridges at the summit. During the descent, orient yourself towards the couloir with a stream. The descent into the cirque takes 1.5 hours. There are cairns along the descent route.

Passport

I. Rock class. 2. Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatoo ridge. 3. Tyulenina peak, 4100 m, via the East wall. 4. Proposed — 5A cat. dif., 3rd ascent. 5. Height difference 600 m, length of sections with 5th cat. dif. 200 m, average steepness 54°, average steepness of the wall section 74°. 6. Pitons hammered in: rock — 56, nutcrackers — 15, including 5 for creating belay anchors 7. Travel time: 12 hours. 8. Overnight stay: one — under the route, lying down.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent type — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Western Tian-Shan, Ugam Range
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — I-st tower of Peak Arsen, 3800 m; via the northern counterfort
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B
5. Route characteristics: height difference – 490 m, route length – 700 m, 2nd diff. cat. – 430 m, 3rd diff. cat. – 160 m, 4th diff. cat. – 85 m, 5th diff. cat. – 35 m. Average steepness – 45°
6. Number of pitons: for belaying, for creating KTO:
   • rock pitons 36
   • ice screws

REPORT

on the ascent to peak Arsen in the western part of the northern wall (first ascent), category 5B difficulty, of the Sports Committee team of the Kazakh SSR Team members:

• 30/11-77
• Denisenko A.A.
• Vorobyov A.S. Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge 1977 www.alpfederation.ru

Approach to the route

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — combined 2. Ascent area — Western Tian Shan Ugam ridge 3. Peak Druzhba 4100 m via the 2nd buttress of the North-West wall 4. Proposed complexity category — 4A 5. Route characteristics height difference — 400 m length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 65 m average steepness — 70° 6. Pitons driven for protection to create ITO

I. Rock class. 2. Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge, "Sairam" gorge. 3. "4200" peak, via the North-Eastern wall. 4. Proposed - 6B cat. of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference - 870 m, length - 1080 m. The length of sections with 5B-6B cat. of difficulty - 750 m, of which 5B-6B cat. of difficulty - 680 m. The average steepness of the main sections - 80°, of which 6B cat. of difficulty - 312 m (3230–3365), (3560–3610), (3650–3730). 6. Pitons driven:

Passport

1. Rock class
2. Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge
3. Peak 4200 (Kyzylbash), via the left part of the NE wall
4. Proposed — 6B category, first ascent
5. Height difference: 695 m, length — 755 m, length of sections 5–6 category — 465 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 82° (3540–3990)
6. Pitons hammered in: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :-------- | :----------- | :---------- | :-------- | | 119/22 | 37/13 | 87/16 | 0 |

Ascent Logbook

I. Ascent category: Rock climbing
2. Ascent area, ridge: Western Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak "Sairam" 4238 m, via the center of the north face.
4. Proposed difficulty category: sixth, 5B
5. Route characteristics:
height difference — 830 m
length of sections with 5B–6 difficulty — 485 m
average steepness — 76°
6. Number of pitons: for belaying, for creating artificial anchors

St. Petersburg Climbing Championship

2014 Description of the ascent to the summit of Kara-Kaya (3646 m) via the central buttress of the southwest wall, 6A category of difficulty (E. Poltavets, 2010) ROUTE COMPLETED BY TEAM FASIL Team captain - Nikitin Andrey Borisovich

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge, section No. 2.5 of the route classifier for mountain peaks, point 2.5.226
2. Name of the summit: Kara-Kaya (3646 m), route name: via the central buttress of the southwest wall (E. Poltavets, 2010)
3. Category of difficulty: 6A
4. Route type: rock climbing