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Report on the ascent to the Plata peak (6050 m) in the Cordón del Plata massif, Argentine Andes, via the North-West slope, rated as a 2A category climb.

Ascent Passport

  1. Argentina, Andes, Cordón del Plata massif, classifier section 11.5
  2. Plata, 6050 m, via the northwest slope.
  3. Proposed category: 2A.
  4. Route type: combined.
  5. Route elevation gain: 1850 m. Route length: 5500 m. Length of sections with category V difficulty: 0, category VI difficulty: 0. Average slope: 37° for the main part of the route, 20° for the entire route.
  6. Pitons left on the route Total: 0, drilled pitons: 0.
  7. Team's travel time: 6.5 hours, 1 day.
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Report on the ascent to the summit of Noshaq (7,492 m) via the Northwest ridge in 2011, category of complexity 5B.

Championship

Class of High-Altitude Ascensions

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Noshak 7492 m via the Northwest Ridge. 2011 Leader: Chizhik D.V. Participants:

  • Apraksin Denis
  • Shafikov Renat
  • Bakhmurov Yuri
  • Leontiev Valery
  • Gromov Andrey
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Report on the ascent of Ojos del Salado (6893 m) via the North Face, category 2A, made by a group from the "Club 7 Summits" led by Ivan Dusharin.

To the Qualification Commission of the Russian Mountaineering Federation.

Report

On the ascent to the summit (volcano) Ojos del Salado — 6893 m via the North slope. Approximately 2A category of difficulty. A group of participants from the "Club 7 Summits" Group leader: Dusharin I.T. Coach: Abramov A.V.

Ascent Passport.

  1. Type of ascent — technical
  2. Ascent area — South America, Andes mountain system, Central Andean Plateau.
  3. Ascent route — via the North slope (towards the Equator)
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Report on the ascent by the KCR team to the summit of Eastern Dombai-Ulgen 3968 m via the South wall, category 5B route, with a description of the route taken and its features.

Climbing Report of the KCR Team to the summit of Vostochny Dombay-Ulgen 3968 m

Via the South Face, 5B category (variant). Presumably 5B category of difficulty. Variant. Semenov M. A. — team leader Tkachenko V. I. — participant

2. Caucasus

2.2 From Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass.

Climbing Participants

  1. Team Leader — Semenov Mikhail Alexandrovich. Candidate Master of Sports. Coach — Shipilov V. A. Address: 144001, Elektrostal, Oktyabrskaya St., 8, apt. 117.
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Report on the winter ascent by a team to Peak Shchurovsky via the West face "Surka" and the edge of the North face bastion, cat. 5.5, in January-February 1983.

Report

on the ascent of the Leningrad Sports Committee team to Peak Shchurovsky via the Western wall "Surka" and the edge of the bastion of the Northern wall, category 5B (variant) Team captain — S.G. Kalmykov Team coach — A.I. Moshnikov Central Caucasus January – February 1983

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of Peak Shchurovsky

Peak Shchurovsky is located in the Main Caucasian Range, which forms a complex zigzag in this area. The south-eastern ridge descends to the Western peak of Chatyn-Tau, and the north-eastern ridge descends to the Lожный Chatyn pass. To the south of the peak, reaching an altitude of 4100 m, is the famous Ushba plateau, descending along the western slopes of the peak with a grandiose Ushba icefall. The northern wall of the peak faces the Shkheldinsky glacier. On its kilometer-long slope, cut by snow and ice couloirs, the upper bastion stands out with a dark steep face, the right edge of which rests on the north-western counterfort, having a steep western wall. The rocks of the bastion and the western wall "Surka" are characterized by their monolithic nature and smoothed relief, reminiscent of the relief:

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Climbing passport of a winter ascent of 5B category of complexity to Peak Shchurovsky (4259 m) via the North-Eastern wall in the Central Caucasus.

Ascent Passport

  1. Class — winter.
  2. Central Caucasus.
  3. Peak Shchurovsky, 4259 m, via the northeast wall (V. Abalakov's route).
  4. Category of difficulty: 5B.
  5. Height difference: 800 m, length – 1050 m. Length of sections with category 6 difficulty — 220 m. Length of sections with category 5 difficulty — 780 m. Average steepness of the route — 68°. Average steepness of the main sections — 75°.
  6. Number of pitons driven | Rock | Nut | Ice | Bolt | | :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- |
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Report on the ascent to the summit of Elbrus East (5621 m) from the east via Achkieryachkol lava flow, category 2A.

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Elbrus Eastern 5621 m.

from the east through the Achkeryakolsky lava flow Presumably 2A category of complexity Leader: Gavrilov Ilya Vladimirovich 2010 Addresses: 357500, Stavropol Territory, Pyatigorsk, Ogorodnaya st., 37-3, apt. 26 Gavrilov Ilya Vladimirovich, tel. +7-928-829-10-41, djilisutours@rambler.ru 357600, Stavropol Territory, Essentuki, Ordzhonikidze st., 84-3, apt. 43 Mashin Roman Ivanovich, tel. +7-928-285-57-46, romashin79@mail.ru 357700, Stavropol Territory, Kislovodsk, Olkhovskaya st., 14, apt. 1 Ovcharenko Danila Sergeevich, tel. +7-928-008-03-01, ovcharenko911@mail.ru

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### Crossing Elbrus from the North via Both Summits: Route Overview Detailed analysis of the route, including technical difficulties and required equipment for traversing Elbrus from the north, crossing both its Eastern and Western Summits.

ELBRUS EASTERN AND WESTERN PEAKS TRAVERSE VIA THE SOUTHERN SLOPE 3–4 cat. dif. From the village of Terskol, ascend via the road on the left bank of the Terskol River. The road almost immediately crosses to the left side of the southeastern spur of the Elbrus massif into the Azau gorge and gradually ascends to the "95" checkpoint, then to the "105" checkpoint and further to the ice base. The road serpentines can be bypassed via trails in many places, starting from the transformer booth near the village of Terskol. From the village of Terskol, 5–6 hours. From the ice base, descend from the moraine onto the glacier, then make a steep ascent. Continue upwards along the gentle snowy slope, gradually bearing left, moving in a broad snowy hollow until the slope steepness increases sharply (to 30–35°). Here, turn left and, ascending via a traverse onto a snowy rise, after 300–350 m, reach the rocky ridge where the Priyut 11 ( Refuge of Eleven) is located (to the left of the ascent path — hidden crevices). From the ice base, 1.5–2 hours. In summer, the path from the ice base to Priyut 11 is usually marked with wooden stakes every 40–60 m. Another ascent option to Priyut 11 is possible: from Terskol by car to Azau, then via the cable car and from the cable car station upwards along the broken rocks and snowfields — from the station, about 3–3.5 hours. At Priyut 11, it is advisable to have an active acclimatization day with an exit to the Pastukhov rocks.

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Report on the team's ascent to the west summit of Elbrus via the western slope through Utug, describing the route and its technical characteristics.

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Elbrus West via the Western slope through Utyug for the category of complexity by the team of the "Maximum" Sports and Alpine Club of Pyatigorsk State University for the period from June 20 to 28, 2020.

I. Climbing Report Passport

General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderSvitovoy Kirill Viktorovich, 1st sports rank
1.2Full name, sports rank of participantsFilatov Maxim Yuryevich, 2nd sports rank Mamonova Elena, 2nd sports rank
1.3Full name, sports rank of observerVikhlyaev Vladislav Valeryevich, 2nd sports rank
1.4Full name of coachDamianiди Ivan Georgievich, Grebenyuk Alexander Viktorovich
1.5OrganizationSAK "Maximum" PSU
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### Ascent Route to Sovetsky Voyn Peak (4052 m) #### Category 2A Complexity in Prielbrusye A detailed guide including the path, necessary gear, and duration for climbers.

Description

Climbing route to the summit SOVIETSKY VOIN 2A category of complexity. The summit elevation is 4052 m. The Soviet Voïn peak is located in the Eastern spur of Elbrus. From the junction of the Baksan valley and the Adyl-Su gorge, take the road to the settlement of Elbrus, located at the entrance to the Irik-Chat gorge. Follow the lower trail on the right bank of the Irik-Chat river upstream through the gorge. The trail goes along a grassy slope past sand pillars and small forests to the confluence of the Irik and Chat rivers. At the forest boundary, there are "Lower Camps" (3-3.5 hours from the Adyl-Su tourist center). Then the trail goes up to the right along a steep grassy slope (40 minutes - 1 hour) and leads to a large stone on a flat area - "Middle Camps". From here, the ascent follows the trail along a grassy slope, then through the "Verbliud" (Camel) - a steep grassy slope - the trail comes out onto a moraine and further along the moraine and snowy slope to the saddle between the Soviet Voïn peak and the Kezgen-Bashi peak. The exit to the saddle is to the right of the Soviet Voïn peak. From the "Middle Camps" to the saddle - 3-3.5 hours. From the saddle, ascend to the left up the inner corner 5-6 m. Piton belay. Then, along simple rocks upwards in the direction of the ridge to the second inner corner. Traverse below the inner corner and up its right side 5-6 m. Then move onto a slab to the right and along the slab to a large protruding stone. From the stone, along moderately difficult rocks 20-25 m, reach a sharp ridge crest, from which then move onto a smooth inclined slab leading to the ridge of the Soviet Voïn peak. From the saddle to the ridge - piton belay, handrail. Then along the ridge (simple rocks) ascend to the Soviet Voïn peak. From the saddle to the summit - 1-1.5 hours.

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