Climbing Report of the KCR Team to the summit of Vostochny Dombay-Ulgen 3968 m

Via the South Face, 5B category (variant). Presumably 5B category of difficulty. Variant.

Semenov M. A. — team leader Tkachenko V. I. — participant

2. Caucasus

2.2 From Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass.

Climbing Participants

Team Leader — Semenov Mikhail Alexandrovich. Candidate Master of Sports. Coach — Shipilov V. A. Address: 144001, Elektrostal, Oktyabrskaya St., 8, apt. 117. Phone: +7 (906) 724–94–53. Email: aravigehc@mail.ru
Tkachenko Vlad Igorevich, Teberda Coach — Shipilov V. A.

Climbing Passport

Western Caucasus, Dombay region, section 2.2 of the route classifier for mountain peaks.
Vostochny Dombay Ulgen 3968 m. Via the south face.
Proposed category: 5B. Variant.
Route type: Rock climbing.
Height difference: ??? m. Route length: ??? m. Average steepness: 60°.
Number of pitons left on the route: 0
Total climbing time: 13.5 hours, 2 days.
Descent from the summit via the ascent route through the cave.
Team Leader: Semenov Mikhail Alexandrovich, Candidate Master of Sports, coach Shipilov V. A. Participant: Tkachenko Vlad Igorevich, 2nd sports category, coach Shipilov V. A.
Start of the climb: 7:00 AM, September 6, 2016. Summit reached: 11:30 AM, September 8, 2016.
Alpine club "ARKHYZ"
Responsible for the report: Semenov M. A. aravigehc@mail.ru

Idea: To climb this route.

On September 6, 2016, we set out as a team of two to climb Vostochny Dombay via the south face, 5B category. We crossed Dombaysky Pass; it was raining, visibility was poor, and we camped somewhere just after the glacier.

On September 7, 2016, we ascended the route above the cave; visibility was poor, everything was in fog. It was here that we got lost. We searched for the red rocks for a long time and were surprised that we couldn't find them. We set up a bivouac site and spent the night.

On the morning of September 8, 2016, everything became clear!:)) We were on the other side of the mountain, between the peaks of Vostochny and Glavny Dombay. It was too far to go back, and we weren't keen on it. So, we made our own variant of the route, ascending via a counterfort to the ridge leading from Vostochny Dombay to Glavny Dombay, and then climbed to the summit of Vostochny Dombay via a relatively easy ridge of category 3 difficulty.

Unfortunately, we didn't find any records, and the tour was destroyed (likely due to time).

We descended via the ascent route, packed up our tent, and descended into the cave (the last rappel was in the dark).

After a good rest, on September 9, we leisurely descended to Dombay.

Having climbed the classic 5B route via the south face, I can say that our variant is definitely not easier. It has a right to exist because it's also quite logical (the same "gardens" as via the shoulder).

Climb leader: Semenov M. A. Participants: Tkachenko V. I. Coaches: Shipilov V. A.

Our bivouac site on the 5B variant View of the counterfort leading to the ridge.

Photo from the ridge between Glavny and Vostochny Dombay

Mt. Dombay

September 2016. A team of two climbers Semenov M. A. (Teberda) Tkachenko V. I. (Teberda) Completed a climb to Mt. Dombay Ulgen Vostochny via a 5B category route (via the south face, through the cave). Unfortunately, the summit tour was destroyed (at least, we couldn't find it :)), when and who was there before us is unknown. The weather is excellent, with a cool breeze from the sea :) Descent towards Mt. Dombay to the col and then rappelling left. Good luck to all Mountains for climbers.