Irkutsk Regional Alpine Federation

Description

Ascent to v. "Flibustier" via the 3rd ridge (Tunkin Goltsy) Eastern Sayan. 2860 m. Irkutsk, 1971.

Geographical Information, Sports Characteristics, and History of the Exploration of the Moygato Valley

The Moygato valley is located in the middle part of the Tunkin Goltsy ridge in the Eastern Sayan. Tunkin Goltsy is the highest ridge in the Eastern Sayan. The highest point is 3266 m in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Kharym valley. The ridge has alpine forms of relief. There are many peaks of interest to climbers. The valleys are deep, covered with impenetrable taiga. The forest boundary lies at an altitude of 1700 m. The snow cover almost completely disappears by the end of summer. There is no glaciation. The peak "Flibustier" is located in a lateral spur. The height of the peak is 2860 m.

Climbing Passport

1. Center of Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, 6.2.
2. Zvezdny peak, via S wall center (via "Mirror")
3. First ascent, 6A category of difficulty.
4. The route is rocky.
5. Elevation gain along the route according to altimeter — 350 m. Route length — 500 m. Length of sections:

• V category of difficulty — 50 m
• VI category of difficulty — 300 m. Average steepness:
• main part — 84°

Ascent Record

1. Ascent category — rock climbing
2. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki Ridge
3. Peak — Zub Drakona 2170 m via the center of the S wall of the main tower.
4. Claimed — 6A first ascent
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m. total length — 600 m. length of 6th category sections — 220 m. 5th category sections — 150 m.

Characteristics of the area and its exploration history

The Issyk Lake area has long been known to both tourists and mountaineers. Several mountaineering groups and expeditions from the Talgar alpine camp and others have operated in the upper reaches of the Issyk gorge. They have conquered many peaks in the area and compiled detailed descriptions, diagrams, and more. However, the focus was primarily on the upper reaches of the Issyk gorge itself and its left (orographic) tributaries. There was a lack of information on ascents to the peaks of the right tributaries. Even on the most detailed map of the Trans-Ili Alatau available to us, the high peaks to the right of Issyk Lake were not marked. Meanwhile, the high peaks of the right tributaries are clearly visible from the village of Turgen and the Issyk railway station. From there, the significant glaciation of the area is also observable. The high peaks of the Pryamoye gorge, which flows into the Issyk River below the lake, are particularly noteworthy. In 1953, S. Kuderin and N. Shershnev attempted to approach these peaks via the Karabastau gorge, which flows into the Issyk River above the lake. The chosen path proved unsuccessful as it led to the steep and dangerous northern wall of the main peak in the area. Two months later, in May 1953, S. Kuderin and F. Lyubimov approached the glacier cirque via the Pryamoye gorge. The path turned out to be somewhat long and inconvenient for a large group. During this attempt, the group descended to the lake via the ridge separating the Issyk gorge from the Pryamoye gorge. It was found that this was the most convenient and shortest path to the glacier. On May 1, 1955, S. Kuderin and F. Khabibullin followed this path to the glacier cirque. From there, they made an ascent to a nameless peak with an elevation of 3800 m (№ 9) via a relatively straightforward route. There was no tour or note on the summit.

The Peak of Courage

Transfigured by the last rays of the sun, the Trans-Ili Alatau mountains become a fantastical sight… The departing sun's final beams slide along the ridge, painting the ice- and snow-capped peaks a fiery red. As the light fades, one peak remains aglow like a torch against the darkening sky: Pik Komsomola. Mountains, like people, have their own biographies. Little is known about unconquered peaks beyond their altitude, while others have inspired poetic legends. Pik Komsomola belongs to the latter category of majestic mountains with an intriguing history. The people of Almaty had attempted to conquer Pik Komsomola, looming above their city, on multiple occasions, only to be forced to retreat each time. With each failure, the peak's reputation grew, and legends about its inaccessibility were born. Thirty-seven years ago, T. Beloglazov, I. Mysovskiy, and V. Gorbunov successfully ascended Maloalmatinskiy peak (now known as Pik Komsomola). This inaugural ascent is considered the birthdate of high-altitude mountaineering in Kazakhstan. In the summer of 1935, on the initiative of the capital's Komsomol organization, a mass Komsomol alpinada was organized to conquer Maloalmatinskiy peak[^1]. In a single day, 250 participants reached the summit. The public highly praised the mountaineers' feat. The Presidium of the Kazakh Central Executive Committee issued a special decree: "The Kazakh Central Executive Committee notes the brilliant victory of the Almaty Komsomol members, who, in honor of the 15th anniversary of the Kazakh SSR, conquered Maloalmatinskiy peak in a group of 250. Such an ascent has occurred for the first time in the history of mass mountaineering." The Kazakh Central Executive Committee expressed gratitude to all participants and hoped that each of them would become an organizer of mass mountain conquests. The Presidium of the Kazakh Central Executive Committee decreed:

1. Ascent class — Technical
2. Ascent area — Western Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Tuyuk-Shamsin gorge
3. Peak, its height — Peak "Peredovoy" — 3960 m, ascent route — along the 3rd ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 2A cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics — Height difference — 1460 m, average steepness — 40°, length of complex sections: R1–1380 m, R2 ±155 m.
6. Pitons hammered — 2 pcs. rock
7. Number of travel hours — 9 hours
8. Number of overnight stays — none
9. Full name of the leader, participants and their sports qualification:

Ascent Certificate

I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. Climbing area — Western Tian-Shan, Ugam Ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: "Slovakia" 3700 m, Central Ridge 4. Estimated difficulty category: 3B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 370 m average steepness — 74° length of sections: I — 40 m, III — 90 m, IV — 235 m, V — 75 m 6. Number of pitons driven:

USSR Climbing Championship 1988. Rock class.

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Zamin Karor (Western shoulder 4070) via the right part of the NW wall (variant) by the team of the State Sports Committee of the Tajik SSR. Team leader: Yevgeny V. Prilepa. Team coach: Vyacheslav I. Lavrukhin. State Sports Committee of the Tajik SSR Dushanbe, tel. 22-32-27 Chief coach Almin R.

Report

On the first ascent to the summit 4200 m via the southeast wall by the team from alplager "Varzob" from August 4 to 6, 1932. Team captain — Glushko Vyacheslav Ivanovich Team coach — Kapitanov Oleg Viktorovich Address: alplager "Varzob" — 734003, Dushanbe, P.O. Box 362 Team captain — Glushko Vyacheslav Ivanovich 198255, Leningrad, Veteranov Ave., bld. 3, corp. 2, apt. 120 Home phone: 2–54–21–58 Team coach — Kapitanov Oleg Viktorovich

For the championship of Central Council of SDSO "Burevestnik" on alpinism in the class of traverses 1.1.44

TRAVERSE

of peaks 50 years of CPSU – Geroycheskaya Korea – Sapozhnikov – Petr Sukhov – Vostochnaya Belukha – Zapadnaya Belukha – 20 years of Oktyabr – peak Razdelny (first ascent):

• 50 years of CPSU
• Geroycheskaya Korea
• Sapozhnikov
• Petra Sukhova
• Vostochnaya Belukha
• Zapadnaya Belukha