Route Description

December 2, 2025

Ascent class — Technical
Ascent area — Western Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Tuyuk-Shamsin gorge
Peak, its height — Peak "Peredovoy" — 3960 m, ascent route — along the 3rd ridge.
Proposed difficulty category — 2A cat. diff.
Route characteristics — Height difference — 1460 m, average steepness — 40°, length of complex sections: R1–1380 m, R2 ±155 m.
Pitons hammered — 2 pcs. rock
Number of travel hours — 9 hours
Number of overnight stays — none
Full name of the leader, participants and their sports qualification:
1. Kolva V.A. — II sports category (leader)
2. Matygin S.V. — II sports category
Team coach — Guber G.D. — Candidate Master of Sports, instructor II category
Date of departure on the route — May 3, 1983 Return — May 3, 1983

Ascent Route

to peak "Peredovoy" 3960 m along the 3rd ridge 2A cat. diff.

Nature of the route to peak "Peredovoy" 3960 m. 2A cat. diff.

Date	Designations	Average steepness in degrees	Length in meters	Nature of terrain	Difficulty	Condition	Weather conditions	Pitons
May 3, 1983	R0–R2	30	750 m	rocky ridge	1	destroyed	good	simultaneously
	R2–R4	40	35 m	rocky slabs	2	destroyed	good	ledges
		30	45 m	rocky ridge with	1–2	destroyed	good	ledges
	R6–R7	55	10 m	inner corner, rocky wall	2	monolith	good	ledges
	R8–R9	35	280 m	rocky ridge	1	destroyed	good	ledges
	R9–R10	70	25 m	rocky wall	2	monolith	good	2 pcs. rock pit
	R10–R12	40–65	10 + 20	rocks	2	monolith	good	ledges
	R12–R13	30	300 m	snowy ridge	1	firn	good	simultaneously
	R13–R14	50	10 m	inner corner	2	monolith	good	ledges
	R14–R15	40	50 m	snowy ridge	1	firn	good	simultaneously
Total on the route		40	1535 m	rocky ridge		destroyed	good	ledges

May 3, 1983. Descent from the summit along the North ridge 1B cat. diff.

Ascent route to peak "Peredovoy" 3960 m along the 3rd ridge 2A cat. diff.

Comments