PASSPORT

1. Technical category

2. Ak-su gorge

3. Peak Admiralteets, via the pillar, Bashkirov route, 6A, 2nd ascent.

4. Elevation gain 850 m, length 1230 m, section lengths: 6th cat. diff. — 510 m, 5th cat. diff. — 340 m. Average steepness of the route 88°

5. Pitons driven: rock — 226/4 bolt — 14/207, 27? chocks — 108/3 ice — 2/0. x — re-use of previously driven pitons

6. Team's walking hours — 47, days — 4

7. Campsites: 1 — after processing below the route 2 — sitting on an inclined ledge 3 — sitting on a rock ledge 4 — lying on the ridge

8. Leader: Shavrovich Alexander Leonidovich — Candidate Master of Sports

   Participants:

   • Gostishchev Sergey Georgievich — Candidate Master of Sports
   • Myakotnikov Alexey Alekseevich — Candidate Master of Sports
   • Baranov Anatoly Nikolaevich — 1st sports category
   • Solovyov Andrey Vasilyevich — 1st sports category
   • Uzhegov Alexander Nikolaevich — 1st sports category

9. Coach: Kadtsyn Vladimir Nikolaevich — Master of Sports of the USSR

10. Route processing: August 7, 1990. Departure on the route: August 8, 1990. Summit: August 10, 1990. Return: August 11, 1990.

TACTICAL ACTIONS OF THE TEAM

August 7, 1990. The trio Shavrovich – Baranov – Solovyov left the campsite on the moraine below the route at 8:00 at an altitude of m, approached the start of the route at 8:40 and processed two ropes, hanging them across ice crevasses and the bergschrund.

August 8, 1990. At 8:00 the first rope team left the campsite on the moraine for further route processing. The other participants dismantled the bivouac and also left for the route at 9:00. At 18:00 the lead rope team passed the key section of the route — a 100-meter internal corner — and overcame 2 cornices. At 19:00 the first rope team reached an inclined ledge and began preparing a site for a sitting bivouac.

August 9, 1990. At 8:30 the Gostishchev – Myakotnikov rope team began processing the next sections of the route. At 12:00 all participants left the previous bivouac and engaged in fetching equipment and transporting the load. At 18:30 the first rope team reached a ledge where it was planned to make the second bivouac and began further processing, hanging another rope. At 20:30 the whole team gathered at the bivouac. By this time the site was equipped and secured with reliable belays.

August 10, 1990. At 9:00 the lead rope team continued working on the route. Having processed 4 ropes, they reached the East ridge of Admiralteets at 12:00, where the entire load was lifted by 14:00 and the whole team followed. After three rappels everyone descended onto the plateau. At 17:00 all participants ascended the destroyed South ridge of Admiralteets and, having chosen a bivouac site, continued the ascent. At 20:00 the whole team reached the summit and then descended to the bivouac.

August 11, 1990. At 9:30 the team began descending from the bivouac site into the Karasu gorge.

PASSING THE FIRST SECTION R0–R10

INTERNAL CORNER ON SECTION R13–R14

EXIT FROM THE LARGE SCREE LEDGE SECTION R21–R22