Ascent Record

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Aksu valley.
3. Peak, its height, route — Peak Admiralteets, 5090 m, via NE buttress of E ridge.
4. Difficulty category — 5B (assumed).
5. Route characteristics — combined (rock and ice). Height difference — 650 m. Length — 870 m. Length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 280 m. 6th difficulty category — 85 m. Average slope — 60°.
6. Number of anchors used for belays: rock anchors — 62, ice anchors — 21, bolt anchors — 0, chocks used — 49.
7. Total climbing time — 25 hours.
8. Number of bivouacs on the route and their characteristics: 2 bivouacs, on a rock ledge.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualification: leader — Korolyov Anatoly Mikhailovich, Candidate Master of Sports; participants — Boyko Valentin Vladimirovich, 1st sports category; Erokhin Oleg Valeryevich, 1st sports category; Rozenberg Valery Vasilyevich, 1st sports category.
10. Team coach — Korolyov Anatoly Mikhailovich.
11. Date of departure and return: departure — August 18, 1983, return — August 20, 1983.

UIAA Route Diagram for Peak Admiralteets via NE buttress of E ridge (Sheet 1 and Sheet 2)

Conclusions

Peak 5090 (presumed "Admiralteets") is one of the most interesting climbing objectives in the "AK-SU" valley. The route requires a variety of technical climbing techniques. The route necessitates ice screws designed for hard ice, "ice fifi", various chocks, and solid rock anchors.

Objectively hazardous sections are R2; it is advisable to climb these early in the morning. The rest of the route features solid rock and hard ice.

Comparing this route with others such as "Volnaya Ispaniya" NW edge, "Shkhelda" 3rd West via the center of the S.St. triangle, Peak Shchurovsky, and the routes of Abalakov and Slenzak, the team considers this route to correspond to the 5B difficulty category.

Protocol

Protocol of the ascent of Peak 5090 "Admiralteets" via the NE buttress of the East ridge, 5B category, completed on August 20, 1983, by the "Odessa gathering" team at the "Alay" alpine camp.

Present: Orobey I.A. — 1st releasing officer, Korolyov A.M. — leader.

Participants:

• BOYKO V.V.
• EROKHIN O.V.
• ROZENBERG V.V.

Korolyov A.M. (leader): In preparation, the climbers completed joint ascents of 3B–5B categories, demonstrating good physical and technical readiness. The climbing objective, Peak 5090 "Admiralteets", was chosen on site. On August 17, 1983, they set out for the approach and bivouacked within an hour's walk from the start of the snow-ice ridge.

August 18, 1983:

• Departed at 5:00.
• Climbed in rope teams on ice: Erokhin — Korolyov, Rozenberg — Boyko.
• Then Erokhin led, Rozenberg brought up the rear.
• At 15:00, they found a suitable platform. Erokhin and Korolyov processed two more ropes and descended for the night.

August 19, 1983:

• Departed at 8:00.
• Erokhin and Rozenberg led and brought up the rear, respectively.
• Boyko climbed one of the difficult pitches.
• At 19:20, they reached the East ridge and bivouacked.

August 20, 1983:

• Departed at 8:00.
• Reached the summit at 11:30.
• Found and read the note left by the first ascenders, a Leningrad gathering team.
• Began descent at 12:00 via the first ascenders' route.
• Organized 2 rappels.
• Reached the glacier in the "KARA-SU" valley at 17:00.
• Returned to the "Alay" alpine camp at 20:00.

The route fully corresponds to the 5B category, is combined, and requires good physical, technical, and tactical preparation. It demands a wide range of climbing gear. Chocks and wide-profile anchors worked well. The route is relatively safe from rockfall and is logical and very interesting.

On the participants:

• Erokhin — demonstrated excellent technical skill, confidently leading pitches. Has a good understanding of the route and is technically competent. Fully prepared for 5B category ascents as both a participant and a leader.
• Boyko — physically and technically well-prepared. Climbed a difficult pitch on the route. A good team player. Active during bivouacs. Prepared for 5B category ascents.
• Rozenberg: worked as the last in the team, maintained radio contact, and took photos. Timely provision of anchors, ropes, and carabiners for the "lead" climber. Excellent technical, physical, and tactical preparation; effectively managed the team's logistics.

The team worked cohesively and quickly.

Rozenberg:

• Enjoyed the ascent.
• Found the route interesting.
• The entire route required full commitment.
• Bivouacs were comfortable and safe.

On the first day, they could have bivouacked on the 3rd rope higher but would have had to navigate a snowy cornice. Korolyov's decision to pass it in the morning, "in the cold," was very correct as the cornice collapsed in the evening. The leader's extensive experience was evident. On the descent, he found all the "knots" left by the first ascenders. The team maintained a "healthy" working atmosphere.

Boyko: The route is logical and interesting. This was my first 5B category ascent. The route is significantly more challenging than my previous climbs. The team worked cohesively. I appreciated Korolyov's leadership style. Have no complaints about the team members. The use of anchors and chocks was necessary and adequate for safety.

Erokhin: The route is interesting and at times quite demanding. The sections with icy rocks were particularly challenging. The team worked well. The route corresponds to the 5B category and is combined.

Orobey: The ascent was conducted in good style. Safety measures were observed throughout the route.

The leadership and participation are hereby acknowledged.