5025 (Seé)

Ascent Record

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — № 4.3.
3. Summit — Komurzang Peak, height 4649 m, route via the Northwest Ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1200 m, average slope 50°, length of sections of II difficulty category — 700 m, III difficulty category — 1000 m.
6. 5 rock anchors installed for belaying.
7. Total moving time — 6 hours 30 minutes.
8. No overnight stops on the route.
9. Climbers: Leader — Valery Alexandrovich Ovsyannikov (1st sports category), participants:

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270530

Report

8

ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF KOMURZANG PEAK (4653 m) VIA THE WEST RIDGE, APPROXIMATELY CATEGORY 3B DIFFICULTY Komurzan Peak is located in the northern spur of the central part of the Vanch Range. It is clearly visible from the Vanch River valley between the villages of Sungat and Garmchashma. It is a triangular peak with moderately pronounced counterforts between the West and Northwest ridges. A large snowfield lies between these ridges, transitioning into a canyon.

Approach to the Route Description

From the base camp in the Vanch River valley between the villages of Garmchashma and Sungat, proceed to the West ridge and follow it to the "letovka" (3–3.5 hours). Continue along the ridge with rock outcrops to the start of the ridge ascent (3–3.5 hours) — the overnight location. A tent site can be prepared on the ridge; snow is available on the northern slope, but there is no water.

Route Description

From the overnight location, ascend the severely damaged rock ridge with small (2–5 m) walls to the red wall (section R0–R1, 1.5–2 hours). Movement is simultaneous, with insurance through ledges at certain points. At the base of the red wall, there is a control cairn on a platform (rockfall hazard!). The red wall (section R1–R2) — 1.5 ropes — is traversed on the right side, with an exit to the left at the top ("live" rocks, pitons!). There are no convenient locations for organizing insurance on this section.

СКО ridge of Vershina range — peak Komurzang (local name), height 4563 m, route — via the Western edge. Assumed cat. difficulty — 3B. Characteristics of the route:

• height difference — 900 m
• length of sections of II cat. difficulty — 1000 m III cat. difficulty — 610 m, IV cat. difficulty — 180 m, average steepness — 40°. Number of pitons for belay — 8 rock. Number of travel hours — 8. The route was completed without overnight stays. Climbers: leader — Lelyakov Vladimir Anatolyevich — 2nd class; participants: Yevstifeev Vladimir Ivanovich — 1st class, Podkaminer Alexander Yuryevich — 1st class, Starlychanov Valery Dmitrievich — Master of Sports. Team coach — Master of Sports of International Class Demchenko Alexander Stepanovich. Departure to the route and return — July 12, 1979.

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ASCENT PASS

1. Ascent category: Technical.
2. Ascent area: Central Pamir, Vanchsky Ridge.
3. Peak Kuli-Zod South, height 4550 m. The route is combined.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 2B.
5. Route characteristics:
   • Elevation gain 1200 m.
   • Average steepness 15–20°.
6. No pitons were used. Belaying was done through natural features.
7. Total climbing time: 11–13 hours.

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The peak Kulizog (4688 m) is located in the Northwest Pamir in the upper reaches of the Vanch River, in the northern spur of the Vanch Ridge. The Kulizog peak is the easternmost in a group of five peaks (p. 4321 m, p. 5137 m, p. 5232 m, p. 5323 m, and Kulizog peak) that frame a horseshoe-shaped glacier feeding the Rovak stream, a tributary of the Vanch River. To the east flows the Abdukagor River. The first topographic survey of the area was conducted by N.G. Dorofeev in 1928. A more detailed topographic survey was carried out in 1949 by a group of topographers and glaciologists led by R.D. Zabirov. The few mountaineering expeditions that have worked in this area have chosen objects on:

• the northern and middle parts of the Geographical Society glacier (G.O.);
• the area of the Fedchenko glacier;
• the Abdukagor River valley. The first attempt to conquer Kulizog peak was made on August 2, 1972, by a group of climbers from the USSR Armed Forces: V. Golaktionov - leader, D. Tsamay, G. Chubinidze, A.M. Es'kin, V.A. Es'kin - from the upper reaches of the Rovak River. The group left their bivouac on the slope of the Rovak River at 8:00 and, reaching the first large gendarme, left a note by 15:00. The group did not reach the summit.

Description

3À — Ca­po­dra­ra 5. Cu­num, 74