(4900 m) via the Eastern ridge

Grade III, Category III

July 25, 1969

V.P.B. Ryadov

The Eastern ridge of the summit descends practically to the assault camp on the Kshemyi Glacier and forms the Kshemyi spur and the Purovsky Pass. From the assault camp, fire at the lower part of the Eastern ridge and ascend to the upper cirque of the glacier (2 hours 30 minutes).

The ascent to the ridge is via a snowy slope, followed by moderately difficult rock climbing (40 m). During the ascent, orient towards the rock ledges located at the beginning of the ridge ascent to the upper slopes.

Tayki-Tayki. Continue along the rocky ridge with moderate difficulty to the base of the gendarme. The time from the assault camp to the gendarme is 5 hours.

Bypassing the gendarme is the key section of the route. The gendarme is traversed from below upwards on its right wall above the snow-ice couloir. Descending into the couloir is not advisable due to rockfall and avalanche danger.

Bypassing the gendarme includes the following sections:

• Descend via rock ledges to the right and downwards;
• Traverse (80 m) along the northern wall of the gendarme at a height of about 10-15 m above the snow-ice couloir (pitons, difficult climbing);
• Ascend the rock wall 15 m upwards to a sloping snow-ice ledge;
• Move along the junction of ice and rocks (40 m);
• Traverse along a narrow rock ledge with navigation by protrusions to the exit into the throat of the ice couloir;
• Pass through the couloir (4 m) with a "Russian step".

Here, finally, the team of four can regroup.

The further route:

• Ascend via the detoured rocks upwards to the exit into a wide internal angle - a couloir leading to the ridge;
• Move along the snow-ice slope in the lower part of the angle (45 m) to a navigating rocky outcrop;
• Exit onto the rocky outcrop, difficult climbing.