Тща­тель­ной причёс­кой отра­бот­кой и на коп­ках. От места под­ход­ки на пере­вале 2 ч 30 мин.

The ice ridge turns into a rocky ridge. Here, difficult climbing on rocks (40°), covered with thick flow ice. Insurance through pitons. There are loose rocks. After 40 m exit to the right to a site protected from rockfall from above. Further movement upwards:

• first along stratified rocks,
• then on ice,
• then along 25-meter rocks (60°), which is a continuation of the ridge.

At the exit from the rocks, there is a convenient site for organizing insurance, above - overhanging rocks.

After the rock, movement to the right - up - to the left along a wide couloir (65°), formed by randomly located rocks. Insurance through horizontal pitons and duralumin wedges. After 80 m of difficult climbing along the couloir, exit to a gentle part of the ridge, which after 15 m comes under a monolithic, almost vertical triangular wall with a height of 20 m, with very small cracks and with an internal angle on the right with a length of 30 m.

Relative passage time: 7 hours.

Overcoming the wall occurs with the use of petal pitons, hanging ladders and grips.

Movement takes place in the following sequence:

• First, movement upwards, then to the right;
• After overcoming approximately 2/3 of the wall - exit to the internal angle on its left (along the path) side, which is passed similarly to the wall;
• In the upper part of the internal angle - exit to the edge, which is a continuation of the vertex angle of the triangular wall.

The edge is heavily locked, without grips and cracks convenient for hammering in pitons. After a small twist,