Kilse-Burun — 7.

Up the wall on the left edge of the central part of the massif, 2B (A. Brynza's route, 1990)

The approach to the route starts approximately 200 m west of the campsite. An additional landmark is that the route begins under a rock cirque located between the western and central parts of the massif. Up a gentle slope for 70 m to the start of the main part of the route (R0: 70 m, 40°, category I). On the section R1–R2 — up 40 m on simple rocks. Then (section R1–R3) up and right along a crack to a group of trees (R1–R2: 40 m, 65°, I; R2–R3: 40 m, 70°, II). On section R3–R4 — up and right 40 m to exit into the right part of the rock cirque. Here it is necessary to overcome a large fault in the wall (R3–R4, 40 m, 70°, II). On section R4–R5 — up and right to a large internal corner located on the left edge of the T-part of the massif (R4–R5, 40 m, 60°, I; 40 m, 45°, I). The remaining part of the route completely coincides with route №6. On sections R5–R6 — R8–R9 move up a long internal corner to exit onto a terrace. The most difficult part is the exit onto the terrace. Here you need to move on the right side of the corner. On the terrace, the main part of the route ends (R5–R6: 40 m, 60°, I; R6–R7: 40 m, 70°, II; R7–R8: 40 m, 70°, II; R8–R9: 20 m, 70°, II). From the terrace, enter a wide couloir (section R9–yayla) and up it 200 m on simple rocks to exit onto the summit plateau (R9–yayla: 200 m, 45°, category I).

Kilse — Burun — 5.

On the right side of the fourth buttress of the western part of the massif, beyond

The approach begins the same way as for routes #3 and #4, 50 m west of the road signpost "36/18". First, ascend via the trail, and then via simple rocks to a long terrace and proceed along it 150 m to the right under the central part of the fourth buttress. On section R1–R2 — ascend 40 m up the simple rocks of the central part of the buttress (it coincides with route #4) (R1–R2: 40 m, 50°, I). Further, the route passes slightly to the right of "Three Pines" ("Три сосны"). On section R2–R3 — ascend via a cleft turning into an internal corner (R2–R3: 40 m, 50°, I). On section R3–R4 — first 10 m up a sheer cleft under an overhanging wall. It is bypassed on the right via an internal corner and then upwards through it (R3–R4: 20 m, 80°, IV; 20 m, 75°, III). On section R4–R5 — ascend via a bushy internal corner (R4–R5: 45 m, 70°, II). On section R5–R6 — ascend 45 m via an internal corner, which expands in places and turns into a chimney in its upper part, to exit onto the eastern shoulder of the buttress. From it, 10 m along a steep wall onto a terrace. The main part of the route ends here (R5–R6: 45 m, 70°, II; 10 m, 70°, III). Further (section R6–yaila) — exit onto the summit plateau via a gentle gully (R6–yaila: 200 m, 45°, no technical difficulties). The length of the main part of the route is 210 m. The ascent takes 3 hours.

Kilse-Burun — R1

On the left side of the third buttress of the western part of the massif («Lokomotiv»), category 3B (III, 260 m) (route by A. Brynza, 1990)

For the first time, this route was climbed by me along with students of the Dnipropetrovsk National University of Railway Transport, where I work. By right! img-0.jpeg As pioneers, we named it «Lokomotiv». A characteristic feature of the route is that in its lower part, it passes through a section of the wall covered with ivy, which is why it is sometimes called «Plyushch» («Ivy»). The approach to the route from the road starts at the end of the long zigzag road. From there, the road continues straight along the Kilse-Burun massif to the campsite. Initially, follow the path to a small, separately protruding rock used for training. By passing the rock, move up and to the right along the talus to a wide internal corner between the 2nd and 3rd buttresses of the western part of the massif (R0: 250 m, 20–30°, no category). On the R1–R2 section — up the steep internal corner between the 2nd and 3rd buttresses. First, 30 m up its right part, and then 10 m up and to the right under the wall overgrown with ivy (R1–R2: 40 m, 75°, III). On the R2–R4 section — up and to the right to a large pine tree at the base of the steep internal corner (R2–R3: 20 m, 75°, III; 20 m, 60°, II). On the R3–R4 section — from the pine tree 30 m up the steep internal corner to a sloping terrace. From it, up the left side of the buttress, overcoming a steep short wall through a cleft first (R3–R4: 40 m, 70°, III). On the R4–R5 section — up the buttress through rocks of medium complexity to a large pine tree at the beginning of the steep internal corner (R4–R5: 40 m, 75°, III).

Kilse-Burun — 2

Via the third counterfort of the western part of the massif (a question), 2B category

The approach to the route begins slightly west of the campsite under Kilse-Burun, 50 m east of the "36/18" kilometer post of the old highway. First, left along the trail, and then up simple rocks to the exit to a long inclined terrace. Along it, 100 m to the right and up. Then turn left and ascend simple rocks to a small terrace at the base of a small rock circus located between the third and fourth counterforts of the western part of the massif (R0 section). On the R1–R2 section — in the central part of the obscured wall:

• initially 35 m up and to the right in the direction of a small ledge (R1–R2: 40 m, 75°, IV+). On the R2–R3 section — initially a little up, and then up and left to a separate pine on the ridge of the counterfort (R2–R3: 30 m, 75°, IV+). Further, routes #2 and #3 coincide. On the R3–R4 section — from the pine 10 m up and to the right along a 10-meter steep internal corner, and then 30 m up and left along the ridge (R3–R4: 10 m, 80°, IV+; 30 m, 70°, III). On the R4–R5 section — up 80 m along the ridge of the counterfort to the exit to a large terrace. On it, the main part of the route ends (R4–R5: 80 m, 70°, III). Along the terrace (R5 section — yayla):

Kilse-Burun — 3

Via the second counterfort of the western part of the massif (a question), 3B (IV, 80 m) (V. Chekanov and V. Kozinog's route, 1973)

The approach to the route from the road begins at the end of the long zigzag of the road. From it, the road further goes along the Kilse-Burun massif to the campsite. On the trail:

• At first, approach a small, separately protruding rock, previously often used for training.
• By going around the rock, move up and to the right along the talus to the base of the second counterfort of the western part of the massif. An additional landmark can be a large rusty spot on the sheer wall in

Through the center of the central part of the wall through the internal corner, 4B (methodology by A. Brynza, 1991)

The approach to the route starts 100 m west of the campsite. From the road, ascend along a small scree to a terrace near a large rusty internal corner. The route begins 20 m to the right of it (R0: 200 m, 20°, no category). On the R1–R2 section — first, ascend 8 meters up a steep internal corner to the start of a long inclined ledge. Then traverse along the ledge to the right for 60 m (R2–R3 section) to a balcony under a steep rusty wall. At its bottom, there are 3 large vertical cracks, and in the middle part, a large and deep internal corner is visible, cutting through the middle part of the wall (R1–R2: 8 m, 80°, IV; 30 m, 50°, I; R2–R3: 30 m, 50°, I). On the R3–R4 section — first, 35 m up the right crack, then move left to a small ledge near the middle crack. From it, ascend (R4–R5 section) up the middle crack to the exit into the large and deep internal corner (R3–R4: 40 m, 80°, IV+; R4–R5: 40 m, 75°, III+). On the R5–R6 section — first, 40 m along the scree to the steep part of the internal corner. It is climbed on its right side. Initially along the wall, and then up the crack, ascend to a complex chimney. Climb it to a grotto with overhanging walls. By passing it on the right along a steep wall, exit onto a gentle section (R5–R6: 40 m, 40°, no category; 40 m, 80°, V+). On the R6–R7 section — first, 20 m up and left along the scree, then up the left wall. Along an inclined ledge, exit onto a ridge and then up along it or the slabs (R6–R7: 20 m, 40°, no category; 40 m, 75°, V).

Kilse-Burun — 16. Through the central part of the wall through the inner corner, 5A (A. Brynza's route, 1991)

The approach to the route starts 100 m west of the campsite. From the road, ascend via a small scree to a terrace near a large rusty inner corner. The route begins 20 m to the right of it (R0: 200 m, 20°, easy). On the R1–R2 section — first, ascend an 8-meter sheer inner corner to the start of a long sloping ledge. Then traverse the ledge right for 60 m (R2–R3 section) to a balcony under a steep rusty wall. At its bottom, there are 3 large vertical slots, and in the middle part, a large and deep inner corner is visible, cutting through the middle part of the wall (R1–R2: 8 m, 80°, IV; 30 m, 50°, I; R2–R3: 30 m, 50°, I). On the R3–R4 section — first, ascend 35 m up the right slot, then move left to a small ledge near the middle slot. From it, ascend (R4–R5 section) through the middle slot to the exit into the large and deep inner corner (R3–R4: 40 m, 80°, IV+; R4–R5: 40 m, 75°, III+). On the R5–R6 section — first, traverse 40 m of scree towards the steep section of the inner corner. It is climbed on its right side. Initially, ascend the wall, then via a slot to a complex chimney. Ascend it to a grotto with overhanging walls. By-pass it on the right via a sheer wall to reach a gentle section (R5–R6: 40 m, 40°, easy; 40 m, 80°, V+). On the R6–R7 section — first, ascend 20 m via scree up and left, then via the left wall. Ascend a sloping ledge to a ridge and then ascend it or the slabs above (R6–R7: 20 m, 40°, easy; 40 m, 75°, V).

Kilse-Burun — 17.

Right edge of the central wall part (classic), 4B (V, 45 m)

This is one of the oldest routes in the area and was described in the guidebook by O. Grippa and V. Goncharov "Alps in Crimea", published in 1969. The approach to the route starts left of the campsite. Traverse the talus slope (section R0) to a large solitary pine tree under the wall (R0: 100 m, 30°, unclimbed). On section R0–R1, climb the sheer wall to a small tree. From it, go up and right to a juniper tree (R0–R1: 20 m, 80°, V; 30 m, 75°, IV). There are two variations of the ascent. The first one, described earlier in the mentioned guidebook, goes left through a grotto via a large dihedral, and the second, currently more popular, goes straight up. First, we will describe the older route variation. On section R1–R2, climb 60 m up and left to a grotto via easy rock (R1–R2: 80 m, 60°, II). On section R2–R3, climb 40 m up a wide dihedral. Then, go up and right 20 m (section R3–R4) to the start of the next dihedral (R2–R3: 60 m, 70°, III+; R3–R4: 20 m, 75°, IV). On section R4–R5, climb 40 m up a long dihedral (R4–R5: 40 m, 70°, III). On section R5–R6, climb 20 m up a dihedral (R5–R6: 20 m, 80°, IV). On section R6–R7, traverse left onto broken rocks and climb up and left 20 m onto a ledge with a tree under a reddish cave (R6–R7: 20 m, 65°, III).

false. Station at the base of the chimney (old pitons) 10 m, 7–8. Up the chimney, initially difficult, the higher, the easier. Behind the chimney to the right - up the cracks, exit to the yayla. 47 m, 5A1

Kilse-Burun — 8.

Center of the central part of the wall (zyablik), 5B (V, 160 m) (by V. Golovey and F. Karpenko, 1978)

The approach to the route starts 100 m west of the campsite. From the road, ascend a small scree to a terrace at a large rusty internal corner. The route begins 20 m to the right of it (R0: 200 m, 20°, easy). On the R1–R2 section — first, climb up an 8-meter vertical internal corner to the start of a long inclined ledge. Then traverse right along the ledge for 35 m to a small platform at the base of a small internal corner (R1–R2: 8 m, 80°, IV; 35 m, 50°, I). On the R2–R3 section — first, climb 6 m up the left wall of the internal corner, then, crossing the external corner to the left, climb up and left along a long, destroyed groove to a small tree. From it (R3–R4 section) climb up and left along the groove to a large vertical internal corner of Kiga (R2–R3: 40 m, 80°, V+; R3–R4: 40 m, 80°, V+). There are two options to continue:

• directly up the internal corner of Kiga (coincides with route №8),
• or along the right wall of Kiga. The second option is described below.