Activity Feed
Route Description: С гребню
Report on the first ascent to the summit of Sadonkhokh via the North ridge, complexity category 1B, by the SOPSO EMERCOM of Russia team on September 20, 2022.
REPORT
on the first ascent to the Sadonkhok summit, via the North ridge, Category 1B complexity, by the team of North Ossetian Search and Rescue Squad of the EMERCOM of Russia September 20, 2022
I. ASCENT PASSPORT
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sport rank of the leader | Egorin S.V. — Master of Sports |
| 1.2 | Full name, sport rank of participants | Kokoev D.T. — 3rd sports rank. Shmonova N.A. — 3rd sports rank. |
Route Description: с юга
Report on the first ascent to the summit of Barzuikhoh from the south, category 1B complexity, made by a team of climbers on August 30, 2023.
Report
on the first ascent to the summit of Barzuikhox, from the South, 1B category of complexity, by a joint team of AK "Kaskad" and KAT "Fatum" on August 30, 2023
I. Ascent Passport
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Egorin S.V. – Master of Sports |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Artyukhovskaya E.N. – badge holder Dzarakhohov A.S. – badge holder Ketoev K.E. – badge holder Tolistikova E.Yu. – 2nd sports rank Khetagurov S.S. – badge holder Tsabolov I.R. – badge holder |
| 1.3 | Full name of coach | Egorin S.V. |
Route Description: С гребню
Climbing report on the first ascent to the top of Aleksey Botyan via the North ridge, grade 3A, in the Saudor ridge area, North Ossetia.
Report
on the first ascent to the peak of Alexey Botyan via the Northern ridge, category 3A, by the team from the Cascade mountaineering club, from July 26 to 29, 2022.
I. Ascent Details
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Afanasyev I.O.–S. – Master of Sports |
| 1.2 | Full names, sports ranks of the participants | Zemlyakov D.S. – 3rd sports rank, Kravchenko P.P. – 3rd sports rank, Maslennikov M.P. – 3rd sports rank, Sosov A.N. – 3rd sports rank, Khabarov A.S. – 3rd sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Krutikov D.A. |
Route Description: С севера
Report on the first ascent of the Category 1B route to the summit of Kionkhoh from the north by the "Cascade" AC team on November 1, 2023.
Report
on the first ascent to the summit of Kionkhoh from the North, category 1B, by the team of "Kaskad" climbing club on November 1, 2023
I. Ascent Passport
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Egorin S.V. — Master of Sports |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Artyukhovskaya E.N. — 3rd sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full name of coach | Egorin S.V. |
| 1.4 | Organization | "Kaskad" climbing club |
| 2. Characteristics of the ascent object |
Route Description: траверс с востока
Traverse of the peaks Arau-khokh East (2392 m), Arau-khokh Central (2548 m), and Kuardjin Well. (2611 m) in the Caucasus, a rock route of category 2B complexity.
Ascent Log
I. Ascent category: rock climbing 2. Ascent area: Caucasus, 28, Arau-khokh massif 3. Peak, route: p. Arau-khokh (2392 m) — p. Kuardjin Uzl. (2611 m) — traverse from east to west. 4. Estimated cat. difficulty 2B: p/p 5. Route characteristics: Height difference – 220 m, route length – 4000 m, section lengths:
- 3 – 100 m
- 4 – 70 m, average steepness of the main part of the route – 40°
- Pitons driven:
Route Description: траверс
First ascent description of the 3A category rock climbing route along the ridge of Kuardjin-Araukhokh massif in Caucasus with a detailed description of approaches and route passage.
Ascent Passport
- Caucasus, Rocky Range, classification section number - 2.8.
- Kuardjin Tsentr. (2600 m) - Araukhoh Tsentr. (2550 m); traverse.
- Proposed 3A category of difficulty; first ascent.
- The nature of the route is rocky.
- The height difference of the route is up to 150 m. The length of the route is 2200 m. The length of sections with 5 category of difficulty - 2 m. The average steepness of the key sections of the route is 60°. The average steepness of the entire route is 20°.
- Hooks left on the route - 2.
- Team's working hours - 8, days - 2.
- Leader: Egorin Sergey Vladimirovich - MS
Route Description: СВ гребню
Ascent to Main Arkhon via North-East ridge, category 3A complexity, route description including technical information and required equipment.
Description of the Ascent Route to Arkhon Glavny (4253 m) via the Northeast Ridge, Category 3B Complexity
The Arkhon massif is located in the Tepli group of peaks in the Northeast spur of the Kolota peak (4168 m). Its four peaks, listed in order from Kolota, are named:
- Yuzhny (South)
- Tsentralny (Central)
- Glavny (Main)
- Maly (Small) The first ascent of Glavny Arkhon was made on July 2, 1949, by a group led by Senior Lieutenant German. On July 3, 1949, the ascent was repeated by a group of climbers from the Ordzhonikidze "Medik" Sports Society (led by A. Kalmykov). These ascents were made from the Khardadzhin glacier from the south and are classified as Category 2A. On May 29, 1966, a group of climbers from Ordzhonikidze, led by R. Proskuryakov, made the first ascent of the Northeast ridge of Arkhon Glavny, approaching it from the Kurtatin valley. The group consisted of athletes with 1st sports rank and one with 2nd sports rank. On the same day, a group of third-rank climbers led by N. Alchiev made the first ascent of Arkhon Maly (3942 m) via the Southwest ridge, Category 2B complexity.
Day One
From Ordzhonikidze, travel through the village of Dzuarikau to the Kurtatin valley until the fork of the Fiagdon and Dzamarash-don rivers (2 hours 30 minutes). At the fork, cross the Fiagdon River to the left bank and follow the trail for about 1 km along the river. The trails lead into the first valley to the west.
Route Description: ЮЗ гребню
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Arkhon Maly (3942 m) via the South-West Ridge, category 2B difficulty level.
Route Description for Climbing Arkhon Maly Peak (3942 m)
Category II-B difficulty. The peak is located in the Teplinskaya group of the Front Range of the Greater Caucasus, on the northeastern spur of Kolota, immediately adjacent to the Arkhon Glavny peak (4253 m) to the southwest. The first ascent to Arkhon Maly was made by a group of climbers from Ordzhonikidze led by N. Alchiev on May 29, 1966, from the Fiagdon valley via the southwest ridge. Day I. Traveling from Ordzhonikidze through the Kurtatinskoye gorge to the confluence of the Fiagdon and Dzamarashdon rivers takes 2 hours 30 minutes. Cross the Fiagdon River via a bridge near a watchtower and follow the trail up to the first hanging valley (on the left orographic slope of the gorge). The ascent proceeds up a grassy slope, which becomes quite steep at the top, leading to a moraine hill. The moraine ridge is sharp, with avalanche debris from Glavny Arkhon on both sides. On the first day, the ascent reaches an absolute height of 3000 m. At the junction of the moraine and the slope, a bivouac is set up on a small site. The ascent to the bivouac takes 3 hours. Day II. Depart at 5:00 AM. After proceeding 100 m along the moraine, turn right and ascend the slope to the eastern buttress of the northeastern ridge of Arkhon. Upon reaching the ridge of the buttress:
- form a rope team;
- move up the ridge.
Route Description: СЗ ребру и правой части С стены
Winter ascent of 2A category of complexity to the summit of Arkhon Maly via the North-West ridge and the right part of the North wall in the Caucasus.
Ascent Record
- Ascent classification: winter.
- Ascent area: Caucasus, Lateral Ridge, Tsadjiudon gorge.
- Peak, route: Arkhon Maly (3984 m), via the Northwest Ridge and the right part of the North Face.
- Estimated difficulty category: 6A winter, first ascent.
- Height difference:
- 1135 m.
- of which the wall section is 250 m.
- length of the wall section — 255 m.
- total route length — 1680 m.
Route Description: траверс
Ascent of Rapayum via the South-West Face with exit to the Trasep ridge and its traverse to the summit of Rapayum I.
V. Karaugom, Traverse, 4B cat. diff.
Western
Eastern
North-East ridge
Shoulder
Bol. Zh.
R1
R2
R3