Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: COMBINED (rocky in summer)
2. Ascent region: CAUCASUS: 2.8: Tsaziut-Don river valley
3. Peak, route: Geodesist peak (4138 m): via the Western ridge
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 2B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1,600 m; route length — 3,000 m; length of 2B category of difficulty sections — 120–150 m; average steepness of the key part of the route — 70–80°
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 4 pcs. (on descent); ice — none; placed elements — none.
7. Number of walking hours (days): — 14 (1)
8. Number of overnight stays: first — in the cirque, second — in the cirque (bivouac in one place).

ASCENT FORM

1. Ascent category: ice-snow
2. Ascent region: Caucasus: 2.8: Genaldon River valley
3. Peak, route: Geodesist Peak (4138 m): from NE via the glacier
4. Estimated difficulty category – 3B, first ascent
5. Route description:
   • elevation gain – 500 m
   • route length – 770 m
   • length of 3B category sections – 640 m
   • average slope of the main route section – 40°

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category: rock climbing 2. Ascent area: Caucasus, 2.8, Midagrabindon river gorge 3. Peak, route: "3836", East ridge, 3rd category 4. Estimated category of difficulty: 2A, partially rocky 5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 580 m Route length — 1200 m Section lengths:

• Category 3 — 46 m

1. Climbing type: rock climbing.
2. Climbing area: Caucasus, Midagrabindon gorge.
3. Peak, route: p. D. Gogaev (3836 m) East ridge.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 3A rock, semi-independent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1200 m, route length — 1500 m, section lengths:

• 2nd category of difficulty — 350 m
• 3rd category of difficulty — 110 m
• 4th category of difficulty — 95 m, average steepness of the route — 45°, steepness of key sections — 65°

6. Pitons driven: 5 rock pitons.

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Skalisty Range, Classification section number 2.8.
2. Dashtsar (2918 m) — via the left part of the West wall.
3. Proposed category: 3A, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock.
5. Route height difference — 350 m (from point R0). Total route length — 700 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 8 m. Steepness of key sections — up to 95°. Average steepness of the wall part of the route — 60°.
6. Pitons left on the route — none. Pitons used on the route — 12. Chocks used on the route — 12.

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Rock Ridge, Classification section number 2.8.
2. Dashtsar (2918 m) – via the South face.
3. Proposed category: 3B, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Route elevation gain — 320 m (from point R0). Total route length — 580 m. Length of sections with category 5 difficulty — 20 m. Crux pitch steepness — up to 95°. Average steepness of the wall section — 70°.
6. Pitons left on the route — 3. Pitons used on the route — 9. Chocks used on the route — 15.

Ascent Passport

I. Climbing category: technical 2. Climbing area: Caucasus; 2.8; Kolka glacier 3. Peak, route: Dzhimaraikhokh peak (4773 m); I knee-fold of the North ridge from Kolka glacier 4. Estimated category of difficulty — 3B category of difficulty; first ascent 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 2000 m, route length — 2800 m, length of sections: 5 category of difficulty — 20 m, 4 category of difficulty — 200 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 40°–45° 6. Pitons hammered: ice screws — 50 pcs., rock pitons — 3 pcs., chocks — none 7. Number of climbing hours/days — 20/2

Description of the state of the route to the summit of Shau-khokh (4636 m) via the eastern ridge, category 2B complexity. The nature of the route as of September 2015:

• snow-ice
• rock sections do not present technical difficulties

Approaches

To get to the village of Verkhny Koni, register at the border post (the summit is located in a border area, and a permit is required to climb; it's best to obtain it in advance), then go up to the village of Tmenikau. 2 km further up the gorge is a border post, the farthest point reachable by car. From the border post, a gentle, wide trail (formerly a geological road) leads up the Genaldon gorge to the warm mineral springs in front of the tongue of the Maili glacier. This is where the base camp for climbing Mt. Kazbek from the north is located. There are places for tents and water. The distance from the border post to the springs is about 9 km, taking around 4 hours on foot. The trail continues over a suspension bridge across the Genaldon river to the lateral moraine of the Maili glacier, ending at the glacier's tongue. Then:

• climb onto the tongue of the Maili glacier (morphology changes frequently, from a steep ice wall to a gentle passage consisting of moraine deposits) near its western edge,
• cross to the lateral moraine and move along it beside the Genaldon river until a left (orographic) tributary flows into it,

SOUTHERN FEDERAL DISTRICT OF THE RUSSIAN FEDERATION ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 2009

REPORT OF THE TEAM OF THE NORTH OSSETIAN SEARCH AND RESCUE UNIT AND THE ALPINISM FEDERATION OF NORTH OSETIA

Peak: Monakh (2757 m) — via the left part of the North face. First ascent.

ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

1. Caucasus. Tsey valley. Classification section number 2.7.
2. Monakh (2757 m) — via the left part of the North face.
3. Proposed category: 5B. First ascent.
4. Route type: rock climbing.
5. Route height difference: 760 m (according to GPS). Total route length: 1100 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty: 210 m. Steepness of key sections: up to 100°. Average steepness of the route: 65°.

33. Kyukyurtly via the Western shoulder (route category 2B). The path from the village Terskol to the Western shoulder via the Old Krugozor and the Khotyutau pass is described in route 32. From the shoulder, turn left, to the west, and descend gently along a long slope through the snowy fields and slopes of the Western spur of Elbrus, and exit below the ascent to the summit of Kyukyurtly. Climb to the summit along a short, gentle snowy slope. From the shoulder, it takes 1–1.5 hours. Return via the ascent route. Duration of the route: 4 days. Additional equipment:

• 2 ice axes
• 2 pairs of crampons