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Description of the ascent route to the summit of Bolshoy Luzhetsky via the western counterfort, category 3A, in Altai, including equipment and safety guidelines.

Passport

  1. Altai, Yuzhno-Chuysky Ridge, Akkol gorge, 1.3
  2. Mt. Bolshoy Luzhetsky via 3rd ridge
  3. Category 3A is proposed (submitted for increasing the category of complexity).
  4. The route is rocky.
  5. Height difference 670 m, length 1120 m, average slope 36°, average steepness of the main part of the route 48°.
  6. Rock pitons used – 3, chocks – 4.
  7. Travel hours – 8.5.
  8. Leader Drakin A.V. – CMS. Participants:
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First ascent of the route 6A cat. complexity "Water World" on the northern wall of the Ostrog peak (2520 m) in the Ikat ridge.

Report on the First Ascent

As part of the Russian Mountaineering Championship

High-Altitude Technical Class 2022 Peak Ostrog (2520 m) via the North Face verticals. Route name — "Water World". Route 6A cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent, Ikatsky Ridge, Barguzin River valley, 9.9 Team Leader: Kleptsov A.A. Participants:

  • Lazarev S.A.
  • Panova A.M. The ascent took place on August 2–3, 2022.

I. Ascent Passport

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First ascent of the west wall of Makalu (8463 m) in alpine style by a combined route of 6B cat. of diff.

Passport

  1. High-altitude class.
  2. Central Himalayas, Main Himalayan Range.
  3. Makalu Peak (8463 m) via the West Face.
  4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Elevation gain: 2663 m; route length: 3920 m. Length of sections:
  • 5th category of difficulty — 530 m;
  • 6th category of difficulty — 640 m. Average steepness:
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Report on the team's ascent to the summit of Manaslu (8163 m) from the north via the classic route of 5A category of difficulty.

Russian Alpine Championship

High-altitude category

Report

ON THE ASCENT TO MANASLU (8163 m) FROM THE NORTH ("CLASSIC") SNOW-ICE ROUTE, 5A category of difficulty, BY THE "FALENOBLASTI" TEAM, FROM 23.09.2023 TO 28.09.2023

2023

www.alp-school.com

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, sports rank of the leaderDusheiko Alexander Sergeevich, 1st sports rank
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Report on the ascent of the team from the Republic of North Ossetia-Alania to Jomolungma (Everest, 8848 m) via the Northeast Ridge in 1995.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: High-altitude.
  2. Ascent area: Himalayas, Tibet.
  3. Peak, route: Chomolungma (Everest 8848 m) via the North-East Ridge.
  4. Complexity category: 5B.
  5. Height difference:
    • including 2348 m of actual wall section
    • total route length — 2168 m
    • wall section length — 5900 m
    • including 4300 m of 5th complexity category
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Report on the first ascent of route category 6B on the NNE wall of Everest (8848 m) by a team led by Pyotr Kuznetsov in May 1996.

PASSPORT

I. High-altitude category 2. Himalayas 3. Mount Everest, 8848 m, NNE wall. 4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 2328 m, wall section 1780 m;

  • length 3738 m, wall section 2238 m; length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty 1790 m; average steepness of the main part of the route 52°.
  1. Pitons hammered in: | Rock | Nuts | Ice and snow |
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**First ascent** of Shingu Charpa peak (5800 m) via the east face, Karakoram, Pakistan, 2007

Ascent Log

  1. Mountain range: Karakoram Gorge: Nangma. Peak name: Shingu Charpa (This peak is not listed in the 2001 classification table).
  2. Route name: "Never More" via the Central Eastern wall
  3. Estimated difficulty category: 6B first ascent
  4. Route type: combined
  5. Route characteristics: Height difference: 1600 m Route length: 2360 m
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Report on the first ascent of Kashkar peak (6435 m) via the North Ridge (ascent) and East Ridge (descent), rated as 4B-5A category of difficulty.

11.3.5

Report

On the ascent (traverse) of Kashkar Peak (Koshkar, Kochkarbashi) 6435 m

via the northern ridge (ascent)–eastern ridge (descent) 4B–5A category of difficulty.

(First ascent)

China, Tian Shan, in the southern spur of Pobeda (Tomur) Peak, Kokshaal-Tau ridge, dividing the Temirsu (to the west) and Chonteren (to the east) glaciers. On the traverse, the following points (peaks, gendarmes) were passed:

  • 5550 m
  • 5620 m
  • 5650 m
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Description of a challenging freeride descent from the summit of Peak Lenin with steep slopes and complex terrain.

freerider's domeik

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Description of the "Assa" 1B category of complexity route to the Merdven-Kayasy peak with a detailed technical description and equipment recommendations.

Route to Merdven-Kayas 1B cat. dif.

The lower part of the "Assa" route goes along the left edge of an oblique ledge - a couloir, to the right of the "Bezzavetny" route, connecting with it in some places. In its middle part, it connects with the "Zлая" route (approximately two ropes). Approach: from the camp of the Mountain School "Category of Difficulty", go towards the "Khergiani" rock and further beyond it to the entrance to the couloir. The approach takes 5 minutes. "Assa" route on Merdven-Kayas 1B cat. dif. "Assa" route on Merdven-Kayas 1B cat. dif. Technical description of the route:

  • R0–R1
  • 50 m
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