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Report on the ascent of the St. Petersburg team to Peak Odessa via the 6B category of difficulty route on the "mirror" of the West Face.

Russian Mountaineering Championship

High-altitude technical class

Report

On the ascent of the St. Petersburg team to Peak Odessa (4810 m) via the "Mirror" of the West Face, Rusyaev's route, variant, 6B category of difficulty. Coaches: Odintsov Alexander Nikolaevich, Smirnov Victor Valerievich, Timoshenko Tatiana Ivanovna St. Petersburg, 2019. Ascent passport

  1. Region 7.5.2 Karavshin Valley
  2. Odessa, 4810 m, via the "Mirror" of the West Face
  3. 6B category of difficulty
  4. Route type: rock
  5. Route elevation gain: 1160 m, route length: 1510 m, length of sections with V category of difficulty: 245 m; length of sections with VI category of difficulty: 835 m; distance covered using Intermediate Technical Obstacles (ITO): 200 m.
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Description of the ascent route to the summit of Kzyl-Tash 3486 m via the middle counterfort of the southern slope, category 3B difficulty, including passage details and technical information.

Ascent Certificate

  1. Altai, Severo-Chuyskie Belki ridge, Aktru gorge, section 1.2.
  2. Kzyl-Tash peak 3486 m, via the middle ridge of the Southern slope.
  3. Proposed category: 3A.
  4. Route type: rock.
  5. Height difference 900 m, length 1400 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 40°.
  6. Pitons used: rock and chocks — 15 pieces.
  7. Team's travel time 8 hours.
  8. No overnight stays.
  9. Leader: Afanasyev A.E., Master of Sports
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Report on the ascent to the summit Alisher 3670 m via the North Edge, 1B category of difficulty, Altai, South-Chuya ridge, first ascent.

Report

On the ascent of the assembled team to the summit of Alisher 3670 m.

via the North Ridge. Presumably 1B category of difficulty. First ascent. Dolgov S. P. — team leader Usanov I. V., Luzhetsky I. V.

Altai 2013 participants of the ascent

  1. Team leader — Dolgov Sergey Pavlovich. CMS. Address: 656015, Barnaul, ul. Depotskaya, 12–38. phone: +7 903-073-98-18. Email: s_dolgov@mail.ru
  2. Usanov Ivan Vladimirovich, 1st sports category, Gorno-Altaisk
  3. Luzhetsky Igor Viktorovich, 2nd sports category, Novosibirsk
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Report on the first ascent of the 1960 m peak via the 2B category route on the west wall and north ridge.

Report

On the first ascent to the summit 1960 m via the route: 4th buttress of the Western wall of the Northern ridge, 2B cat. dif., by the team of FАiS of the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia) for the period from 8:00 to 17:00 on July 8, 2021.

2. I. Ascent Passport

№№ p.p.1. General Information
I.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderIvanov Vasily Ivanovich, CMS
I.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsBogomolov Valery Alexandrovich, 1st sp. razryad
I.3Full name of the coachIvanov Vasily Ivanovich № 72
I.4OrganizationFАiS of the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia)
2. Characteristics of the ascent object
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Report on the first ascent of Category 5B route via the West Face of Kart Peak (2661 m) in the South Muya Range.

Report

on the first ascent to the summit of Kart 2661 m via the Western wall route, approximately category 5B complexity, from July 15, 2019, to July 15, 2019. 2019

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderGlazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich, Master of Sports, St. Petersburg
1.2Full name, sports rank of participantsOleneva Nadezhda Aleksandrovna, Candidate Master of Sports, Perm; Tkachenko Pavel Valentinovich, 1st sports category, Chita
1.3Full name of coachGlazunov Evgeny Vladimirovich (Master of Sports)
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Report on the first ascent to the summit Kart 2661 m via route 5A category of complexity on the Western wall.

Report

on the first ascent to the summit of Kart 2661 m via the route along the left chimney of the left bastion of the Western wall, approximately 5A category of complexity, for the period from 5.07.2020 to 5.07.2020

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, sports rank of the leaderSyshchikov Anatoliy Gennadievich, Master of Sports
1.2Full Name, sports rank of participantsGlazunov Evgeniy Vladimirovich, Master of Sports
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Report on the ascent of Pik Nadezhdy (5600 m) in Karakorum via the SW ridge of the S wall, category 4B.

Report

on the ascent to Peak Nadezhda, 5600 m Route via the counterfort of the SW wall. Cat. 4B St. Petersburg, 2011

Ascent Passport

  1. Region 10.2, Karakoram mountains.
  2. 5600 m (Peak Nadezhda), via the counterfort of the SW wall.
  3. Cat. 4B.
  4. Route type: combined.
  5. Route characteristics:
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### Ascent Route Overview to Spantik (Golden Peak) The ascent route to Spantik, also known as Golden Peak, is located in the Karakoram range. The following summary provides an overview of the region, approach, climate, and technical profile of the route. #### Region and Approach Spantik is situated in the Karakoram range, a vast mountainous region known for its rugged terrain and diverse climbing opportunities. #### Climate The climate in the Karakoram is characterized by extreme variability, with significant temperature fluctuations and precipitation. #### Technical Profile The ascent route to Spantik involves various technical challenges, including steep snow and ice slopes, requiring a high level of mountaineering expertise.

Map diagram General photo of the summit. Routes from left to right:

  • 1 — team's route
  • 2 — English route 87 (Saunders, 1987)

Description of the Climbing Area

Spantik or Golden Peak is located in the second-highest mountain system in the world — Karakoram, which directly continues Hindukush, rising between Pamir and Himalayas. In particular, the road that leads to the climbing area passes directly through the junction of the three greatest mountain systems in the world:

  • Himalayas
  • Karakoram
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### Route Description Climbing route through the center of the South face of Marmolada Punta Rocca (3309 m) in the Dolomites, 6A grade, rock climbing, 800 m elevation gain.

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Climbing Passport

  1. Climbing area: Dolomite Alps (Italy), Marmolada massif (Marmolada)
  2. Summit name: Marmolada Punta Rocca (Marmolada Punta Rocca, 3309 m) Route name: via the center of the South wall (Vinatzer route)
  3. Route difficulty: 6A, approximate
  4. Route type: rock climbing
  5. Route elevation gain: 800 m Route length: 1085 m
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Report on the ascent of the MEI Climbers and Mountaineers Club team to Urrielu Peak via the "Winter Dreams" route, category 6B complexity.

Moscow Alpine Championship 2011. Technical Climbing Category

Climbing Report

Report on the ascent of Picu Urriellu (Naranjo de Bulnes) 2519 m by the team from the MPEI Alpine Club and Climbing School via the Northwest Wall, category 6B, route "Sueños de Invierno" (Winter Dreams) by José Luis García Gallego and Miguel Ángel Díaz, March 1 – May 8, 1983 (69 days) October 5, 2011

Climbing Details

  1. Cantabrian Mountains, Picos de Europa region, Spain.
  2. Picu Urriellu 2519 m, (Naranjo de Bulnes) via Northwest Wall (route "Sueños de Invierno")
  3. Proposed category: 6B
  4. Route type: rock climbing
  5. Height difference: 470 m
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