17

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing area: Dolomite Alps (Italy), Marmolada massif (Marmolada)
2. Summit name: Marmolada Punta Rocca (Marmolada Punta Rocca, 3309 m)

Route name: via the center of the South wall (Vinatzer route)

3. Route difficulty: 6A, approximate
4. Route type: rock climbing
5. Route elevation gain: 800 m

Route length: 1085 m Section lengths by difficulty:

• I–II category: 90 m
• III category: 45 m
• IV category: 335 m
• V category: 475 m
• VI category: 140 m Average steepness of the wall: 78°

6. Number of pitons and protection gear used:

7. Team's total climbing time: 31 h 20 min.

8. Team leader: Primak Leonid Nikolaevich, 1st sports category (MS - rock climbing)

Team members:

• Bushmanov Yuri Dmitrievich, MS
• Grigoriev Evgeny Vadimovich, CMS
• Dobrovolsky Alexander Stanislavovich, MS

9. Coach: Smirnov Viktor Valerievich, MS
10. Departure onto the route: at 7:30 on August 15, 2007

Reached the summit: at 16:20 on August 17, 2007 Returned to base camp: at 24:00 on August 17, 2007

Fig. 1. General view of the Marmolada massif from the South

Fig. 2. Map of the climbing area

Fig. 3. Route diagram in UIAA symbols (lower part)

Fig. 4. Route diagram in UIAA symbols (upper part)

Fig. 5. Technical photograph of the route (lower part)

Fig. 6. Technical photograph of the route (upper part)

Fig. 7. Route profile from the left

Fig. 8. Route profile from the left (upper part)

Fig. 9. Bushmanov Yu. leading on section R0

Fig. 10. Dobrovolsky A. on belay station R6

Fig. 11. Primak L. leading on section R5

Fig. 12. Dobrovolsky A. on the traverse. Section R7.

Fig. 13. The team on the route. Section R6. Belay station R7. (photo by Smirnov V.)

Fig. 14. Bushmanov Yu. on the traverse. Section R9.

Fig. 15. Primak L. on section R10

Fig. 16. On section R12

Fig. 17. Dobrovolsky A. on section R13

Fig. 18. In the chimney on section R14

Fig. 19. Overnight bivouac on a ledge. Section R17

Fig. 20. On section R22

Fig. 21. Primak L. on the traverse. Section R25