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Description of the ice-snow route to the summit of peak V. Shumilov via the North slope, difficulty category, details of passage and belaying.

The route to the summit of Pik V. Shumilova via the left part of the North slope, snow-ice, coordinates: 49°44.068′ N, 87°58.504′ E, height 3555 m according to the navigator, approximately for c/tr. The route, view from the northeastThe route, view from the glacier View from the glacier

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First ascent to the top of Yablonsky via the eastern slope of the northern ridge, category III, route and approach description.

Passport

  1. First ascent
  2. Altai. South Chuya Ridge, Akkol river gorge
  3. Mt. Yablinsky V. via E slope of N ridge
  4. Proposed category 3A, complexity level 2B
  5. Height 3650 m, elevation gain 400 m, distance 700 m
  6. Pitons: ice screws 12 pcs.
  7. Climbing hours 10 from bivouac to bivouac 5 h from glacier to glacier
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Description of category 1B complexity route via Edelweiss pass along the Eastern ridge with a detailed analysis of the path sections and descent recommendations.

Edelweiss Pass Route

Eastern Ridge Route, Category 1B difficulty

Traverse of Khabarovsk Climbers Peak

Descent from the Routes

Via the Eastern Counterfort, Category 1B difficulty. From the camp to the start of the route takes 20–25 minutes.

SectionLengthSteepness, °Description
R0–R180 m25°Old snow
R1–R2100 m30°Steep slope
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Description of the Category 1B route to the summits of Khabarovsk Alpinistok (2166 m) and Ulun (2221 m) with recommendations on equipment and ascent tactics.

9. Descriptions of Ascent Routes to Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m)

Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m) – Mt. Ulun (2221 m), Category 1B Difficulty

From the base camp, move along the left tributary of the Ulun River, then towards the Edelweiss Pass. After 20–30 minutes of walking, start ascending up and to the right along the Eastern Counterfort of Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m). After 1 hour and 10 minutes of ascent along a relatively simple snow-covered ridge with step-kicking, reach the Northeast Ridge of the summit, then continue along it for 20 minutes to the summit. The ridge is not steep and is snow-covered, but mutual belay is necessary due to the presence of snow cornices. Crampons are mandatory! The summit of Khabarovskikh Alpinistok is a pyramid with steep walls dropping to the Southwest and Southeast. The further path is clearly visible from the summit. The traverse follows the ridge directed from North to South. Characteristics of the ridge:

  • rocky, fairly narrow;
  • drops steeply on both sides with walls up to 60 m deep;
  • partially snow-covered, which somewhat simplifies movement;
  • features low "gendarme" formations that can only be overcome head-on.
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Description of the Kuznetsk Alatau mountain region and the ascent route to Bolshoy Zub peak via the Caucasian Eastern ridge, category 1B complexity.

Characteristics of the Region

Administratively, the region is part of the Askizsky District of the Krasnoyarsk Krai and borders on the Kemerovo Oblast to the east. The mountain-taiga steel railway line Novokuznetsk—Abakan connects the remote, previously hard-to-reach areas of Khakassia and Kuznetsk Alatau. Departing from Novokuznetsk station at 17:25, the train arrives at Luzba station at 23:30 local time. The region's climate is sharply continental and harsh. Abundant precipitation contributes to the lush development of vegetation in the summer. During the winter months, a thick snow cover accumulates; in river valleys, it reaches a thickness of 2–3 meters, hiding buildings under it. In settlements:

  • Footpaths are laid at the level of eaves;
  • Train compositions run along tracks in deep snow trenches. The administrative boundary of the regions almost coincides with the climatic boundary: the eastern slopes of Kuznetsk Alatau, located in Khakassia, differ significantly from the western slopes in terms of precipitation, and in winter, the snow cover is much less beyond the Tiger-Tyshsky and Surgassky ridges. This area has significantly more sunny days than the valleys of the Kozyr, Bel-Su, Amzas rivers, etc. Relief. Kuznetsk Alatau, bordering the Kuznetsk depression to the east, is an orographically complex massif where absolute heights reach 2000–2100 m above sea level. The region is generally characterized by mid-mountain relief, transitioning into small-hilly, hilly-ridge relief to the east (Photo 1).
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Report on the first ascent of the route category 1B to the Bolshaya Bariernaya peak in the Putorana Plateau by a team led by Dmitry Orlov on April 2, 2021.

Report on the First Ascent to the summit of Bolshaya Barrierная via Orlov's Route, Category 1B, on April 2, 2021

1. Object Description

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, sports rank of the team leaderOrlov Dmitry Sergeevich, 2nd sports rank in alpinism
1.2Full Name, sports rank of the participantsRyabinin Vasily Viktorovich, 3rd sports rank in alpinism
1.3Full Name of the coach
1.4Organization
2. Characteristics of the ascent object
2.1RegionPutorana Plateau
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Report on the completion of a category 2A route to the summit of Otdelnaya in the Kharayelakh Mountains, Putorana Plateau on October 29, 2023 by Orlov's team.

Report on the First Ascent to the Summit of Otdelnaya via the 2A Category Route by Orlov's Team on October 29, 2023

I. Object Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, Sports Rank of the Team LeaderDmitry Sergeyevich Orlov, 2nd sports rank in alpinism
1.2Full Name, Sports Rank of the ParticipantsDmitry Leonidovich Menshikov, 3rd sports rank in alpinism
1.3Coach's Full NameMikhail Mikhailovich Stukalov
1.4Organization
2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object
2.1AreaPutorana Plateau
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### Ascent route to Munhuli peak: ice and snow ascent via the north face, traversing an ice couloir and exiting onto the eastern ridge.

Brief Description of the Route Approach

From the base camp, ascend along the trail in a southerly direction until reaching the high-altitude rocky plateau (1 hour). Cross the plateau in the direction of peak Munhuluk to the southwest and descend into the Ozernoe gorge (1 hour 30 minutes). Continue along the gorge following the lakes to the south, then the gorge turns right under the northern wall of peak Munhuluk. Approach the base of the ice tie-in (1 hour 30 minutes). The route begins from a snow corrie on the left part of the ice tie-in.

Massif

Route Profile

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Report on the team's ascent to the summit of Manaslu (8163 m) from the north via the classic route of 5A category of difficulty.

Russian Alpine Championship

High-altitude category

Report

ON THE ASCENT TO MANASLU (8163 m) FROM THE NORTH ("CLASSIC") SNOW-ICE ROUTE, 5A category of difficulty, BY THE "FALENOBLASTI" TEAM, FROM 23.09.2023 TO 28.09.2023

2023

www.alp-school.com

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, sports rank of the leaderDusheiko Alexander Sergeevich, 1st sports rank
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### Ascent Route Overview to Spantik (Golden Peak) The ascent route to Spantik, also known as Golden Peak, is located in the Karakoram range. The following summary provides an overview of the region, approach, climate, and technical profile of the route. #### Region and Approach Spantik is situated in the Karakoram range, a vast mountainous region known for its rugged terrain and diverse climbing opportunities. #### Climate The climate in the Karakoram is characterized by extreme variability, with significant temperature fluctuations and precipitation. #### Technical Profile The ascent route to Spantik involves various technical challenges, including steep snow and ice slopes, requiring a high level of mountaineering expertise.

Map diagram General photo of the summit. Routes from left to right:

  • 1 — team's route
  • 2 — English route 87 (Saunders, 1987)

Description of the Climbing Area

Spantik or Golden Peak is located in the second-highest mountain system in the world — Karakoram, which directly continues Hindukush, rising between Pamir and Himalayas. In particular, the road that leads to the climbing area passes directly through the junction of the three greatest mountain systems in the world:

  • Himalayas
  • Karakoram
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